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Have you checked the PCV to make sure nothing is plugged due to deposits, kinked hose, etc.... If the PCV is not actively evacuating the crankcase and pulling fresh air thru the fuel vapors normally entering the crankcase will not be removed and the fuel will condense over time. This has been...

shucks....I figured no one would have even noticed....

Skooter, Hi, Good memory. Yes, mine is an 03...but, retrofitted with 04/05 panels/fairing and storage compartment. Figured it was just easier to call it an 04/05

I've drilled enough holes and changed things so that I would like to replace my dash panels. Anybody hanging onto any spare good panels for my antique?

Did anyone mention checking for any trouble codes? Since the 30 seconds you describe sounds like it is fairly repeatable my guess would be something is sending bad info to the ECM and it is shutting the fuel pump off. That should set a code. The first thing to do (after checking for codes)...

On the general topic of drilling out broken bolts and such........once upon a time I was unaware of such things as carbide drill bits which are much harder than conventional drills and will easily drill out hardened fasteners and such. The difference in performance (and price...!!!) between...

Well....the octane of ethanol is actually much higher than gasoline, so if you set up your FJR engine with more compression and more spark advance and reprogramed fuel curve it will make much more power on ethanol. An engine that has been optimized for ethanol or E85 will still not match the...

https://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/002582.php Only way to go. These really do work and are an absolute necessity drilling holes in any sort of thin material, especially plastic and sheet metal.

Ideally you would not want to turn the idle stop screws you mentioned as thos were set by the throttle body OEM to a standard "closed" throttle position. The idle air bypass screw (the one used to adjust the throttle body sync) is what you wanted to turn. Gently close all of those by turning...

You might also check the fuel tank vent hose that goes from the cap area and hangs down under the bike. I have seen a couple of cases in the past (non-FJR's) where the tank vent hose would suck up water riding in the rain and effectively block the tank vent causing the machines to act like they...

My guess is that the front tire bead is not seated evenly/fully all the way around on one side.....or both. The bead is often very hard to seat fully even with LOTS of air pressure unless the proper tire mounting lubricant is used. It is also very difficult to detect as the bead can be...

I have been occupied with other issues for the past 6 months and had sort of hoped this really would work out fine eventually. I guess that no one else has received their $800 "refund" either at this point. Amazing how this whole thing has transpired. Kind of makes you want to trust no-one...

Several years ago I was in Churchill, Manitoba as a typical tourist peeping at the polar bears from the tundra buggies. I asked the guide if pepper spray was a defense against a polar bear attack as I had heard it worked on other bears. He said, "yes, pepper spray is useful in case of a...

use a piece of PVC pipe to drive it in. Sip the PVC over the fork tube. Cut the PVC long enough do that it clears the end of the fork tube. Slip a cap on the end of the PVC ao that it is easier to apply the force in the "middle" of the PVC "driver"

I think you will find more success in eliminating the "heat" problem by working on keeping the hot air from the radiatorand pipes from blowing onto the rider. There is a lot of "hot' air management that you can do that has been outlined in posts in the past. Air mvoing thru the system is...

Ian, Thanks for taking care of this. It obviously took awhile but this is a fitting way to close the issue out. I shipped the tank and bulkhead fitting I had purchased to you this morning. UPS tracking number 1234217W0335237604 $18.74 UPS shipping Sorry this didn't work out.... The aux...

It is entirely possible given sufficient time and money. But any aort of variable displacement scheme does need to be designed into the basic engine architecture, especially with a DOHC type engine. Not something you are going to tack on later or develop a "kit" to bolt on. Understand that...

A couple of us in the neighbothood have been agonizing over this very topic..... Several decks in the neighorhood topped with the composite trex(?) material. This is the stuff that is an extruded solid 5/4 "board" that looks like a mixture of plastic bits and sawdust. Lots of complaints...

OUCH. That's what I get for trying to be helpful. LOL. I didn't mean to imply that it would cure all clutch problems but if soaking the plates was the only goal then it should suffice. But then again......my clutch works pefectly.......so why do I care???? :rolleyes: :rolleyes...

If someone felt the urge to soak the clutch plates why not just add enough extra oil to get the level up enough to submerge the clutch. Not to say you would run it that way, just to "soak" the clutch if it seems necessary. Drain the extra out before starting. No need to dissassemble this way.