'06 TPS Question

[ionbeam]

I was wondering of someone with an '06 manual could look up the resistance range and TPS idle resistance setting. The '06 TPS appears to be physically identical to the '04. My '04 TPS has gone **** up like a lot of other higher mileage, un más viejo modelo FJRs. Since the '06 TPS is different I wonder if the new part is more robust than the older TPS.

Also, if anyone has changed the TPS themselves would you share your technique for accessing the lower TPS screw? It looks like it is necessary to remove the entire throttle body rack or pull the engine to access the lower screw :blink: I'm warming up the ol' torch and spinning up my grinder to try some modifications to the security torques tool in hopes of finding a solution.

 

[radman]

Use a bit insert. You can then get an open or box end wrench around the drive portion to break it loose, fingers to finish.

 

[Fabone]

Since the '06 TPS is different I wonder if the new part is more robust than the older TPS.

Would be nice if they were, since I'm on my second one.

Also, if anyone has changed the TPS themselves would you share your technique for accessing the lower TPS screw?

I used this on mine.

 

[ionbeam]

Thanks Fabone, have both individual bits and "Allen" type wrenches. I was pleased to see that the box frame that is flat in front is back cut on the important tool access side.

<hint>Rad hasn't changed good ol' Franks TPS yet judging from his suggested tools</hint> Then again, he could be that good :lol:

 

[mdisher]

How does one know when this part goes bad? What are the symptoms?

(not having owned a FI bike before)

Just read your replacement post Ion, thanks...

 

[quicksilver]

Plenty of posts on throttle body syncronization.

It is part of just about every scheduled maintenance.

But, basically, if the you notice undesiable low RPM bucking under load,

throttle sync is the 1st place to look.

Mine drifted around between first few maintenance checks.

Then maybe screws got enoungh dirt and rust to stop moving around.

After you do it a couple times, the check is quick and easy.(assuming major adjustment is not needed)

 

[mdisher]

Plenty of posts on throttle body syncronization.It is part of just about every scheduled maintenance.

But, basically, if the you notice undesiable low RPM bucking under load,

throttle sync is the 1st place to look.

Mine drifted around between first few maintenance checks.

Then maybe screws got enoungh dirt and rust to stop moving around.

After you do it a couple times, the check is quick and easy.(assuming major adjustment is not needed)

Not throttle body sync, I know how to do that... But how does one know when the TPS (throttle position sensor) is going bad?

 

[Timbo2015]

I am currently searching on this site to find symptoms of a bad TPS, too. I suspect mine has gone bad.

My symptoms: at low throttle openings, such as cruising at 55-65 mph, if I slightly roll off throttle then slightly roll on, I get a stumble. Also, sometimes when taking off gently I get a big stumble. The stumble is related to a specific throttle opening, not related to rpm, gear selection, etc. This only seems to happen after riding a long time, 1/2 hour to an hour or more. It just started to happen a month or so ago. (The problem first showed up half way up the James Bay Road. This is a 400 mile road with only one gas stop in the middle, no towns, no houses, no nothing. Thought about turning around so I didn't get stranded in the middle of no where but ended up saying screw it and went on.)

I have an '05 with about 18,000 miles. Any idea how much a TPS costs? I have the 4 year YES coverage, but I might prefer to do the repair myself. Any thoughts? In the mean time, I will keep searching.

<edit> I have finished searching and found several posts that describe my exact symptoms. All turned out to be the TPS. I think I will order a TPS from Gary and install it myself. No error codes are present, so I am skeptical that the local Yamaha dealer will be able to diagnose this, and I doubt they will just take my word for it and replace my TPS for free.

 

[ionbeam]

There is a TPS test procedure here. You can find out what it takes to replace the TPS here.

I got a replacement TPS from Gary at University Motors for ~$76 including two replacement screws. The new P/N for the TPS replaces the old P/N and is completely 'backwards compatible'.

The troubleshooting procedure mentioned above works when the TPS fails all the time. My TPS failed only when hot. To positively identify my TPS I ended up connecting my multimeter to the TPS connector and Velcroed the meter to my dash and rode until my engine exhibited bad behavior. You can read about this experience here.

 

[Timbo2015]

Ionbeam:

My TPS showed up today; just ordered it Tuesday, fast delivery from Gary at University. I followed your procedure, and it took maybe 45 minutes at most. (Not counting running out to Sears to get a set of Torx bits. I already had a set of Torx bits, but they weren't good enough. No, need to use SPECIAL Torx bits with the holes in the middle, because just using REGULAR Torx bits wasn't enough of a pain in the ass. But I digress.)

Anyhow, my max reading was 4.5K ohm, so I dialed in 620 ohm at idle, and ended up with 15-100 on the diagnostic screen. Started fine, ran fine.

My only criticism is the last step of your procedure. I found that 3 beverages of choice gave a better result.

Thanks for your efforts.