07 bmw k 1200GT Clutch Failure/possible fjr failure

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Medic Man

Active member
Joined
Mar 9, 2008
Messages
35
Reaction score
0
Location
Indianapolis
Here is something that happened to my brother that I found to be very interesting. He bought a new bmw k1200 GT last year. I bought a new FJR shortly after. Well I have been hearing for almost a year that his bmw was far better than my FJR. He is one of those fair weather riders that rides when everything is perfect outside and doesn't even own a rainsuit type person. Well don't you see he was taking the MSF saftey experienced riders saftey course and guess what????...... At 8000 miles his clutches went out!!!! When he called and told me I wanted to say, how is your $$$25K bike now?? :yahoo: Well his dealer made it right, even though it has been over a week in the shop when the dealership had the parts on hand. Well my big question is.... Has anyone one the FJR had any problems with their bike like this??? Now my brother is talking with the owner of the dealership about a different bike. Well maybe he should come on over to the dark side.....

Thanks,

Troy

 
My freaking $&^$*@ FJR's clutch failed!!!!

And to think that POS only had 136,000 miles on it and was just too wimpy to take a little slipping abuse.

Clicky HERE

I tells ya, those Japanese bikes just don't have the same quality they used to! :p

 
My freaking $&^$*@ FJR's clutch failed!!!!
And to think that POS only had 136,000 miles on it and was just too wimpy to take a little slipping abuse.
That's just sick and wrong!

If applied to my situation where I have 70,000 trouble-free miles...in another 66,000 miles my clutch might fail? I shoulda bought a BMW so I could have had the opportunity to redo it 10 times now.

Moving thread preemptively....

 
Has anyone one the FJR had any problems with their bike like this??? Now my brother is talking with the owner of the dealership about a different bike. Well maybe he should come on over to the dark side.....
1) No! There are some members who have had their FJRs to the drag strip.

2) A different BMW, or a different brand?

 
AFAIK, all BMWs (and most Ducatis FWIW) have dry clutches, the BMWs are a single plate similar to an automotive design.

Most other bikes have wet clutches.

Dry clutches can not take lots of slipping, as is taught in MSF courses to maximize control at slow speeds (or so I have heard). If one owns a bike with a dry clutch they may want to modify their riding technique so as not to abuse it by lots of slipping. Once it overheats, it's a goner.

As an added point of interest, I own an old BMW 325i cage. The BMW cars are also known for clutches that will not stand up under a lot of slipping. If you get in heavy stop and go traffic for a long time you have to learn how to deal with it without constantly slipping your clutch (idle along with the clutch fully engaged) or you WILL overheat it and it starts to act all squirrelly.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Don't think the Beemer K variant has a dry (ala R type) clutch, but a wetty like most other liquid cooled 4's. As far as the Feej, a fellow I know who bought an 07 did some tuning, took it to the strip, and using on the limiter launches ran 10.85 after 10.85 until he got bored and bought a Kaw 14. The clutch withstood at least 25 runs like that, and was traded in still working fine, though I don't know if the subsequent owner had/has any issues.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Don't think the Beemer K variant has a dry (ala R type) clutch, but a wetty like most other liquid cooled 4's. As far as the Feej, a fellow I know who bought an 07 did some tuning, took it to the strip, and using on the limiter launches ran 10.85 after 10.85 until he got bored and bought a Kaw 14. The clutch withstood at least 25 runs like that, and was traded in still working fine, though I don't know if the subsequent owner had/has any issues.
Radman is right! The new BMW "inclined" 1200 clutches are wet, just like the other liquid cooled 4's. The old BMW 1200, such as the K1200LT, and K1200RS and K1200GT variants of the "flat" 1200, had the dry clutches. What mi amigo SkooterG fails to mention is that our mutual friend Daryl Neil, also an IBA member, has taken the same Motorcycle Drill Team Class as GregM twice on his K1200LT. His Beemer has 150K miles on it and is still running the original BMW clutch!

 
Don't think the Beemer K variant has a dry (ala R type) clutch, but a wetty like most other liquid cooled 4's. As far as the Feej, a fellow I know who bought an 07 did some tuning, took it to the strip, and using on the limiter launches ran 10.85 after 10.85 until he got bored and bought a Kaw 14. The clutch withstood at least 25 runs like that, and was traded in still working fine, though I don't know if the subsequent owner had/has any issues.

You are correct, sir. I had to check on it because my old K100 definitely did have a single plate dry clutch, but according the the BMW motorcycle web site the new K1200 variants (including the GT) have a multiplate wet clutch.

[Emily Litella voice]

Nevermind...

[/Emily Litella voice]

 
evolution-1.jpg

I love it.

Now if you changed the last pictures...

First man rides on an American V-twin cruiser with the hunched back, then he rides on the sport touring bike in the yoda posture. ;)

 
Last edited by a moderator:
<snip>Dry clutches can not take lots of slipping,..... If one owns a bike with a dry clutch they may want to modify their riding technique so as not to abuse it by lots of slipping.
Rotating speed (differential) of the clutch is the critical component (whatever type). When the clutch is spinning too fast to rid itself of the energy differential (much horsepower applied to get vehicle to move from stationary, for example) causing the heat -- it can have detrimental effects. Oil bath clutches may benefit from the cooling effect of oil (in some cases)? They can just as well be handicapped by the 200+ degrees oil temp. environment.

While there can certainly be differences in engineering and design -- it's the speed differential between the clutch friction material and the fast moving metal piece/s (flywheel or clutch outer basket) and slow or non-moving piece/s (pressure plate face or clutch inner hub) that is at issue. Crankshaft mounted clutches (BMW single plate, dry, is an example) by definintion operate at engine speed -- and therefore are at a somewhat disadvantage for getting rid of speed-generated heat. The FJRs (and many other motorcycles) have a reduction (usually, gear-set nowadays) from the crankshaft to the clutch making the clutch (and transmission) operate at a lower speed than engine speed -- that can often be a big plus.

Friction materials in a clutch are not unlike the friction materials used in brakes (in early vehicles, material used to re-line clutches and brakes were often the same) -- and so is the heat generated (in normal use, and when abused, brakes get hot). Clutches will take slipping for very long periods of time (depending on.....?, of course) if the speed differential is kept low (usually meaning slipping at idle (or, just above) -- it's the high engine speed slipping that becomes detrimental.

Clutch longevity is, in many cases, as much an 'operator issue' as a mechanical design issue.

'Fred W': Once it overheats, it's a goner.
Not necessarily. With many clutch materials, once they cool, they can regain much of their original abilities. Although.... too much abuse, too much heat, can warp components -- and that will not 'heal'.

'Fred W': ....slipping, as is taught in MSF courses to maximize control at slow speeds (or so I have heard).
MSF begins with 'friction zone' clutch lessons -- which are necessary (and, which everyone must use). It's part of the method of m/c control -- and, necessary. 'Friction Zone' at high engine speeds (and low vehicle speeds) is not taught, initially. (Actually.... high speed anything doesn't often happen at MSF courses -- students usually need much encouragement to get both/either engine speed and/or vehicle speed 'up') There is a lesson taught, wherein close manuevering is often aided by clutch slipping -- no problem..... up to a point (as described above).

Lots of words in an attempt to try to shed some light on something that is, often, a bit hard to visualize..... :unsure:

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well spoke with my brother today. Another week at the BMW shop! Thanks goodness it is under warranty. Going to ride the FJR to work and then some. Guess I could let him borrow my old Triumph Trophy 900. Oh by the way, it went out at the most 2 hours after the class started.

Be safe out there.

 
To be honest, I'm much more concerned about reported issues with the rear drive than a failing clutch. Clutch failure seems relatively benign in comparison to dumping oil all over the rear tire while under way.

 
AFAIK, all BMWs (and most Ducatis FWIW) have dry clutches, the BMWs are a single plate similar to an automotive design.
Most other bikes have wet clutches.

Dry clutches can not take lots of slipping, as is taught in MSF courses to maximize control at slow speeds (or so I have heard). If one owns a bike with a dry clutch they may want to modify their riding technique so as not to abuse it by lots of slipping. Once it overheats, it's a goner.

As an added point of interest, I own an old BMW 325i cage. The BMW cars are also known for clutches that will not stand up under a lot of slipping. If you get in heavy stop and go traffic for a long time you have to learn how to deal with it without constantly slipping your clutch (idle along with the clutch fully engaged) or you WILL overheat it and it starts to act all squirrelly.
Hi Fred,

The K1200S is a wet clutch with a dry sump scavenge oil system (don't ask me how I know this).

 
AFAIK, all BMWs (and most Ducatis FWIW) have dry clutches, the BMWs are a single plate similar to an automotive design.
Most other bikes have wet clutches.

Dry clutches can not take lots of slipping, as is taught in MSF courses to maximize control at slow speeds (or so I have heard). If one owns a bike with a dry clutch they may want to modify their riding technique so as not to abuse it by lots of slipping. Once it overheats, it's a goner.

As an added point of interest, I own an old BMW 325i cage. The BMW cars are also known for clutches that will not stand up under a lot of slipping. If you get in heavy stop and go traffic for a long time you have to learn how to deal with it without constantly slipping your clutch (idle along with the clutch fully engaged) or you WILL overheat it and it starts to act all squirrelly.
Hi Fred,

The K1200S is a wet clutch with a dry sump scavenge oil system (don't ask me how I know this).
yep. Noted in post #9 above.

 
Does a BMW with a dry single disc clutch jerk when you shift from neutral into 1st when sitting still?

Over the years, I've had 3 Beemers. A 74 R90S, a 78 R100S and currently have a 94 R1100RS. They usually always "klunk(ed)" in varying degrees, but none of them jerked at all.

Dave

 
Top