2003 Regulator/Rectifier question

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

norcal rider

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 14, 2015
Messages
188
Reaction score
52
Location
Sonoma County California
Question for you electrical experts.

I've installed LED headlight bulbs, tail light/brake light bulbs, and blinker bulbs front and rear.

I've been reading tonight that the lower power draw of LED bulbs could over heat the regulator/rectifier and lead to failure of the R/R.

Thoughts, personal experiences, advice?
Thank you!
 
You're RR will love having lighter loads. Unlike older RR that 'shunt' energy back into the stator when battery voltage is sufficient (causing heat, the main cause of failure in a stator), new RR's simply change the on vs off rate via the magic if transistors.

The damage occurs when the electrical load exceeds charging system current capabilities... current goes way up, voltage drops drown, stators fry.
 
You're RR will love having lighter loads. Unlike older RR that 'shunt' energy back into the stator when battery voltage is sufficient (causing heat, the main cause of failure in a stator), new RR's simply change the on vs off rate via the magic if transistors.

The damage occurs when the electrical load exceeds charging system current capabilities... current goes way up, voltage drops drown, stators fry.
Huh?

There are two types of motorcycle charging systems. The first, and simplest, uses a permanent magnet rotor. It produces a constant current at any given RPM. The R/R unit simply shunts unused power to ground in order to maintain a constant system voltage. Varying the load does not vary the power produced. This is the type used on the 2003 FJR and, AFAIK, subsequent models.

The second type is common in cars and used in some motorcycles. A bit more complex, it has brushes that eventually wear out. In this case, the R/R unit varies the voltage applied to the electromagnetic rotor windings through the brushes according to load changes in order to maintain a constant system voltage. However, the current consumed is low compared to the output current and rarely sufficient to burn out the rotor windings.

So in reality, the LED bulbs will not reduce the load on the stator. Conversely, they will INCREASE the current to ground through the R/R unit and if anything, would increase the likelihood of failure -- of the R/R unit, not the stator.

Other possible downsides to LED conversions:

1. Headlight focus. Unless the LED is very carefully designed to mimic the location and orientation of the original incandescent bulb, the light source will not be in the necessary location relative to the parabolic reflector and the lenses. Unlike the incandescent filament, which radiates light evenly all around a long narrow source, LEDs are directional point sources. The result of using a cheap array that just fits the base without positioning the light source at the correct distance from the reflector is usually a short unfocused beam.

2. Turn signal flash rate. While marker and flasher bulbs also suffer from poor focus to an extent, the problem is less critical since turn signals are designed to scatter light in a wide pattern anyway. But some flashers are dependent upon current draw to maintain the correct flash rate. If a bulb burns out, the other bulbs stop flashing. The common fix is to add a shunt resistor, which draws the required additional current -- but that negates the low-current characteristics of the LED, so what's the point? Also, you lose the visual clue that the bulb burnt out. The other option is to replace the flasher with an electronic one having a constant flash rate regardless of load -- but again, no visual clue that a bulb has burnt out. Personally, I prefer knowing that all my signals are flashing when I see the dash indicator flashing, but others may differ.
 
Yeah, the 2003 uses a shunting RR. Heat is it's enemy which is why it's mounted up front in the air flow along the frame (for air flow but also a solid chassis ground). There's a max output it does. Anything unused is shunted to frame (which, btw, is why many radios that use a "floating" ground get interference). That causes heat as a byproduct but is designed into the system. Drop the factory load by using different lights causes more heat. That might be bad in stop-and-go summer driving in AZ for example but I would think that would be minimal.

The other failure is overloading the system, keeping the RR cool without anything to shunt, but overloading the stator.

But I could be wrong. :D Based on the next 2 posts, I had the concept right but the hotter/cooler cycles reversed.
 
A bit more information into the mix.

Permanent magnet alternators (as used on FJRs) have the useful property that, over their higher operating speeds, the current they can produce is almost constant, it doesn't vary with the speed.

The explanation is that the stator windings are inductors. Inductors have the property that their reactance (opposition to alternating current flow) increases in proportion to the speed. So the increase in voltage due to increase in speed is, to a first approximation, cancelled out by the increase in reactance.

The shunt regulator relies on this, and should be rated to carry close to this possible alternator current.

Decreasing the electrical load on the system will increase the RR's current, but unless the designers are incompetent, it should cope without issue.

This also means the heat generated within the stator is almost constant.
 
Screen Shot 2022-02-01 at 10.20.54 AM.pngSeems to me that the RR works harder, hence greater heat, when fully charging system loads. When shunting, it's only 1/2 wave rectification through the 3 SCR's. As compared to full wave rectification via the 6 diodes.... Meaning that if running low current LED's the RR is in shunt mode (less heat on RR) as compared to running high current loads (heated gear) when the RR is in full 'on' mode (full rectification, max current).
 
The lower three diodes of the 3-phase bridge rectifier connect the most negative of the three phases to ground. The other two are more positive than ground, so one or two will always be "available" to be shorted.
 
View attachment 1146Seems to me that the RR works harder, hence greater heat, when fully charging system loads. When shunting, it's only 1/2 wave rectification through the 3 SCR's. As compared to full wave rectification via the 6 diodes.... Meaning that if running low current LED's the RR is in shunt mode (less heat on RR) as compared to running high current loads (heated gear) when the RR is in full 'on' mode (full rectification, max current).
Nope. Not in that circuit anyway.

Half the power is going through each set of diodes, true. But that doesn't mean that no heat is generated when the other half is going through the SCRs. In fact, more heat is generated.

All things being equal, the voltage drop of an SCR is almost twice the voltage drop in an equivalent diode. A power diode is a dual-layer device with one P-N junction and a typical forward voltage drop of 0.7 to 1.2v whereas an SCR is a four layer device with 3 P-N junctions. The power in watts dissipated in such a device varies as the square of the current and is a product of the current and voltage drop. So if you double the voltage drop, you double the heat generated.

For the sake of simplicity, let's ignore minor factors such as lead inductance, capacitance, manufacturing tolerances, gate current, etc. and use some round numbers that don't need a calculator:

Suppose the alternator delivers 30 amps and the combined load is consuming 30 amps. Therefore each of the 6 diodes is passing 5 amps. Now let us suppose that the particular diode chosen dissipates 5 watts of heat at that current. Times 6 diodes, the regulator must therefore get rid of 30 watts of heat.

So now consider the case where the alternator delivers 30 amps, but the combined load is only 15 amps. 15 amps passes through the 3 diodes (as you pointed out) while the shunt passes the other 15 amps. The equivalent SCRs, with twice the voltage drop, would then dissipate 10 watts of heat per SCR at 5 amps. So we have 15 watts of heat from the diodes, plus 30 watts of heat from the SCR trio, for a total of 45 watts of heat generated inside the R/R! 50% less power consumed = 50% more heat to get rid of!

Now, there is a way to reduce the heat generated by shunting -- use power MOSFETs (or even IGBTs) instead of SCRs. The forward voltage drop of a typical MOSFET is typically a few tenths of a volt instead of multiple volts (although the resistance of a MOSFET increases with current). But at 5 amps, one could reasonably expect a MOSFET to generate a third of the heat compared to an SCR.

Another advantage of using MOSFETs is that they are available in both N-channel and P-channel designs. In the schematic above, the SCRs can only shunt up to half the power output -- what happens if the load is reduced to less than half by substituting LED bulbs? That other half can't be shunted, so voltage is forced to rise above the regulated set point -- possibly damaging electronics and boiling that expensive AGM battery dry. But it should be possible to use P-channel MOSFETs to shunt the remaining diodes and theoretically regulate the voltage even at near-0 load.

Just to be clear: I have no idea where the above schematic came from or if Yamaha used SCRs or MOSFETs in the FJR R/R.
 
In the schematic above, the SCRs can only shunt up to half the power output
Sorry, not so. As I said in my previous post, whichever phase is currently the most negative will be at ground (ignoring diode drops). Check the polarity of the rectifier diode immediately across each SCR. No SCR ever "sees" a negative voltage. The other two phases will be at a positive potential so their SCRs are able to conduct, there is no time when the net output cannot be shorted.
 
Sorry, not so. As I said in my previous post, whichever phase is currently the most negative will be at ground (ignoring diode drops). Check the polarity of the rectifier diode immediately across each SCR. No SCR ever "sees" a negative voltage. The other two phases will be at a positive potential so their SCRs are able to conduct, there is no time when the net output cannot be shorted.
holy crap. You guys are making my head hurt. Was hoping for more of a simple yes or no, if possible.
 
Nope. Not in that circuit anyway.

Half the power is going through each set of diodes, true. But that doesn't mean that no heat is generated when the other half is going through the SCRs. In fact, more heat is generated.

All things being equal, the voltage drop of an SCR is almost twice the voltage drop in an equivalent diode. A power diode is a dual-layer device with one P-N junction and a typical forward voltage drop of 0.7 to 1.2v whereas an SCR is a four layer device with 3 P-N junctions. The power in watts dissipated in such a device varies as the square of the current and is a product of the current and voltage drop. So if you double the voltage drop, you double the heat generated.

For the sake of simplicity, let's ignore minor factors such as lead inductance, capacitance, manufacturing tolerances, gate current, etc. and use some round numbers that don't need a calculator:

Suppose the alternator delivers 30 amps and the combined load is consuming 30 amps. Therefore each of the 6 diodes is passing 5 amps. Now let us suppose that the particular diode chosen dissipates 5 watts of heat at that current. Times 6 diodes, the regulator must therefore get rid of 30 watts of heat.

So now consider the case where the alternator delivers 30 amps, but the combined load is only 15 amps. 15 amps passes through the 3 diodes (as you pointed out) while the shunt passes the other 15 amps. The equivalent SCRs, with twice the voltage drop, would then dissipate 10 watts of heat per SCR at 5 amps. So we have 15 watts of heat from the diodes, plus 30 watts of heat from the SCR trio, for a total of 45 watts of heat generated inside the R/R! 50% less power consumed = 50% more heat to get rid of!

Now, there is a way to reduce the heat generated by shunting -- use power MOSFETs (or even IGBTs) instead of SCRs. The forward voltage drop of a typical MOSFET is typically a few tenths of a volt instead of multiple volts (although the resistance of a MOSFET increases with current). But at 5 amps, one could reasonably expect a MOSFET to generate a third of the heat compared to an SCR.

Another advantage of using MOSFETs is that they are available in both N-channel and P-channel designs. In the schematic above, the SCRs can only shunt up to half the power output -- what happens if the load is reduced to less than half by substituting LED bulbs? That other half can't be shunted, so voltage is forced to rise above the regulated set point -- possibly damaging electronics and boiling that expensive AGM battery dry. But it should be possible to use P-channel MOSFETs to shunt the remaining diodes and theoretically regulate the voltage even at near-0 load.

Just to be clear: I have no idea where the above schematic came from or if Yamaha used SCRs or MOSFETs in the FJR R/R.
torch, THANK YOU for the education, said sincerely. It's always about the learning process.
 
Sorry, not so. As I said in my previous post, whichever phase is currently the most negative will be at ground (ignoring diode drops). Check the polarity of the rectifier diode immediately across each SCR. No SCR ever "sees" a negative voltage. The other two phases will be at a positive potential so their SCRs are able to conduct, there is no time when the net output cannot be shorted.
You are correct, and I mispoke on that aspect. This is a 3 phase system and the voltage across any given device varies in cycles, differing from moment to moment to that seen by it's cousins. Regulation should be possible well below half current loads.. Thanks.
 
Top