vintage117
Member
how hard is the sensor to change im tired of the light flashing on then off I know there is oil in my bike because I can see it in the glass
2004 with oil light on
- Thread starter vintage117
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Twigg
Just an old, bald man!
The sensor measures pressure, not volume.
If the oil pump is on its way out you might have a pressure issue. Worth checking, and probably easiest way would be to swap out the sensor and see if the problem goes away. Given the longevity of these engines, and depending on the mileage, I suspect you are right to be suspicious of the sensor though. Just bear the pressure in mind.
Which brings you back to your original question, and I can't answer that
If the oil pump is on its way out you might have a pressure issue. Worth checking, and probably easiest way would be to swap out the sensor and see if the problem goes away. Given the longevity of these engines, and depending on the mileage, I suspect you are right to be suspicious of the sensor though. Just bear the pressure in mind.
Which brings you back to your original question, and I can't answer that
Queensland Ken
Well-known member
It is an oil level transducer, not oil pressure.
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bluesdog
Well-known member
Dead simple to change. Access is in a recess on the bottom of the oil pan. The transducer is connected to an external wire bundle, which connects somewhere behind a fairing piece, iirc, and is the most awkward part of the job. The actual unit is held in place with two small bolts.
Drain oil first, of course!
Drain oil first, of course!
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Twigg
Just an old, bald man!
CrabbyJack
Well-known member
Add 1/2 pint or so of oil until the light goes out. I run with the sight glass completely full before the light will go off. Mine may show the light for a couple of minutes after starting out but won't show it again for the rest of the day, even after multiple starts.
bluesdog
Well-known member
The oil may not flow as freely when the engine is cold, and thus may not correctly activate the sensor, which has a rather small diameter oil port from which to read the level. The sensor is basically a closed cylinder with a small hole near the bottom on one side. It contains a float which in turn activates an electrical switch when the oil level in the cylinder is low. Oil that is the incorrect weight, or too cold, doesn't pass through the small port as quickly as correct weight/operating temperature.
Once the engine has completely warmed up, the oil light should not come on unless the level is really too low, or you have 80 weight in there!
That being said, filling to the very topmost line on the sight glass, or as CrabbyJack posted, will usually satisfy the sensor.
Just be wary of overfilling, as this can possibly lead to problems more severe than that pesky light!
Once the engine has completely warmed up, the oil light should not come on unless the level is really too low, or you have 80 weight in there!
That being said, filling to the very topmost line on the sight glass, or as CrabbyJack posted, will usually satisfy the sensor.
Just be wary of overfilling, as this can possibly lead to problems more severe than that pesky light!
The oil sensor was a bad idea that was badly executed. Since it is only an idiot light, and any idiot can look at the sight glass to see what the actual level is (with infinite precision) I see no need for even having the thing. I mean, when was the last time you heard of an FJR quickly losing enough of the engine oil to be a problem? And then, to top it off, it (reportedly) regularly screws up and displays false positive indications for low oil level.
My '05 never gave me a false low message, even though it did burn some oil and was sometimes on the low side of the sight glass.. If mine acts up (once the bike is out of warranty) I'd just eliminate it and forget about it.
The sensor is a simple switch. I can't tell from a quick look at the manual, but I assume that when the fill level is adequate it grounds the wire going back to the ECU. So if you just tied that wire to ground the light should remain off for perpetuity. It's either that or it grounds the light when the oil is low (which would be dumb) but in that case you just unplug the wire from the switch to disable it.
My '05 never gave me a false low message, even though it did burn some oil and was sometimes on the low side of the sight glass.. If mine acts up (once the bike is out of warranty) I'd just eliminate it and forget about it.
The sensor is a simple switch. I can't tell from a quick look at the manual, but I assume that when the fill level is adequate it grounds the wire going back to the ECU. So if you just tied that wire to ground the light should remain off for perpetuity. It's either that or it grounds the light when the oil is low (which would be dumb) but in that case you just unplug the wire from the switch to disable it.
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ionbeam
2 FUN
Beings ta how it's Friday ----> Sudden oil loss that proved to be a problem. With extenuating circumstances.
The switch is closed (circuit shorted to the crankcase) when the oil level is OK (float at max level position).
The switch is open (no continuity to the crankcase) when the oil level is low (float at min position).
It appears that the float moves a very small distance between max and min positions.
Since it's a mechanical, kinetic, sliding device it may get dirty with an oily sludge buildup which might affect its proper movement.
Mine never illuminates except during its start-up test and I've also watched it two or three times when changing the oil to see if it illuminates as the oil drains.
One of the few, one wire electrical devices on the FJR.
The switch is open (no continuity to the crankcase) when the oil level is low (float at min position).
It appears that the float moves a very small distance between max and min positions.
Since it's a mechanical, kinetic, sliding device it may get dirty with an oily sludge buildup which might affect its proper movement.
Mine never illuminates except during its start-up test and I've also watched it two or three times when changing the oil to see if it illuminates as the oil drains.
One of the few, one wire electrical devices on the FJR.
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Pterodactyl
Well-known member
John Ryan admitted to two complete losses of oil on his FJR. First he hit a rock going north on the haul road and cracked his oil pan. Some workers in Deadhorse welded the hole after he got towed in. Second, as he put it, "An idiot forgot to tighten the drain plug after an oil change." Hey, $hit happens. He blamed the short engine life of his bike (around 200K I believe) on these two misfortunes.
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ionbeam
2 FUN
BTW, everything you need to know about the oil level sensor mounting (big hole, two mounting screws) can be seen in this picture:
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In both of the above examples (Galaxy and Ryan) the oil loss was no big surprise after whacking something. The first indicator of trouble was the stream of black oily shit spraying out the bottom of the engine wetting the rear tire.
Leaving an oil drain plug un-tightened is a perfect reason for an idiot light. Like I said, not really needed for non-idiots. Your level of idiocy may vary.
Leaving an oil drain plug un-tightened is a perfect reason for an idiot light. Like I said, not really needed for non-idiots. Your level of idiocy may vary.
HotRodZilla
GOD BLESS AMERICA
Hey, I remember that picture of Adam. Hell, I mighta taken that picture, or at least laughed uncontrollably while it was being taken.
Looking at your top view photo (interior) of the oil pan what is the purpose of the small rectangular opening/port on the outside edge of the pan near the oil level sensor?
After I remove a filter, the oil runs down, fills that small rectangular orifice and then escapes out through the threaded bolt hole down below.
It makes a bit of a mess and ends up lubing the rubber washer attached to the fairing.
Must be the oil pan's appendix.
After I remove a filter, the oil runs down, fills that small rectangular orifice and then escapes out through the threaded bolt hole down below.
It makes a bit of a mess and ends up lubing the rubber washer attached to the fairing.
Must be the oil pan's appendix.
ionbeam
2 FUN
Notice the dam/ring around 80% of the drain plug hole (apparently to give some beef to the area where the drain plug goes for added strength)? Answers the question of SIDE STAND or CENTER STAND oil changes. The dam/ring around the drain hole makes the side stand drain not such a good idea.
I think that you have already described the purpose of that rectangular cross section tube perfectly.
It keeps that rubber spacer nice and squishy soft and pliable.
Now, now, Alan. We have already empirically proven that you get more oil out on the side stand.
Exactly this much:
That is 85cc's (or roughly 2.9 fluid ounces) of dirty oil.
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ionbeam
2 FUN
Not convinced. I'm still pretty sure the world is flat too. The guy that created the path for the oil to exit the drain hole seems to have been a frustrated pinball machine designer in previous job.
Just north of the Mexican border I took photo evidence that the world is flat, it's as good as you oil bucket shot of roughly 2.9 fl oz of dirty oil.
:lol: 
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So, if the world is "flat" what's that stuff pokin' up there in the horizon? I bet that would hamper the oil draining from anything you parked on that!Not convinced. I'm still pretty sure the world is flat too. The guy that created the path for the oil to exit the drain hole seems to have been a frustrated pinball machine designer in previous job.
Just north of the Mexican border I took photo evidence that the world is flat, it's as good as you oil bucket shot of roughly 2.9 fl oz of dirty oil.
Back on track, it is hard to argue with empirically collected evidence without somehow discrediting said evidence. I did get a few extra drips out of my engine on the side stand, after first fully draining it (for longer than a "normal" person would) on the center stand, when I set it on the side stand. This proves (says I) that the dike maker of the FJR sump pan failed.
Now... far more importantly on a winter Friday eve, I feel a need to update you that the Newburyport Brewing Company has announced (to thems of us that cares and folllow them) that they are now selling their fantastic beers in the Live Free or Die state.
Get some and be happy(er) Green Head IPA is the shit!
