2006 ABS Issues

[noyes23]

Just picked up a 2006 FJR with 43K miles from a small used bike shop. I rode it all of 20 miles before the rear brake locked up and would not release. I got it back to the dealer, and was just informed that it is going to be $2K to repair/replace the hydraulic assembly and associated parts. The owner is out of town and the second in command does not have authority to approve the repair due to cost and the fact that the bike was sold 'as is'. While I think they will do the right thing and repair, I wanted to reach out and see if this cost is a) accurate and B) is there any harm in removing the ABS system altogether? Is that even possible? While I like the idea of having ABS, I only paid $4500 for the bike and am hesitant to dump $2K...should they not take care of it.

 

[HotRodZilla]

There are a few reasons that brake could lock up, and I don't think any of them point to your ABS.

The biggest rear brake issue anyone has is a brake pedal that needs to be lubed. You'll have to look it up, but someone may have a link. It's pretty easy to do.

Someone had something similar happen a while back and replacement of the rear master cylinder fixed it...I think. Maybe it was his reservoir. IF you have an ABS issue, you'll be the first GenII to exhibit that issue.

My bet is on a stuck rear brake pedal.

 

[majicmaker]

That is something that I've never heard of before on an FJR. Did the rear brake literally lock up? Try stepping on the rear brake pedal while looking at the brake lights. If the brake lights don't go out when you release the pedal, the rear brake pedal might just be gummed up and needs a good cleaning. Try that first. If it's a used bike shop, I'm sure they aren't well versed on the common stuff that happens to an FJR on a regular basis. Do that and chime in with the results. Good luck.

Edit: Zilla was 1 minute faster than I was.

 

[wfooshee]

I'm thinking by "lock" you simply mean the brake doesn't release. The ABS system cannot force the brake to lock the wheel, or force a non-release of the brakes. The only thing that happens when ABS fails is the wheel locks when you brake, but it releases when you release the brakes.

If the brake doesn't release, it's a caliper issue or a pedal issue, more likely the pedal. Gunked up pivot points on both the brake pedal and the shifter are very common, as nobody thinks about them.

It IS possible to have a stuck caliper that won't release, which will be a more involved repair, probably replacement of the caliper seals, but still a DIY job for almost anyone.

BTW, if the first thing they think of with sticky brakes is replacing the ABS system, find another dealer.

 

[Steve in Phx]

BTW, if the first thing they think of with sticky brakes is replacing the ABS system, find another dealer.

+1

Or maybe +2

Was this just a guess from the guy standing at the service counter or an actual quote based on someone getting their hands dirty?

More detail would be helpful. Such as, if the rear brake locked up on you, how did you get it back to the dealer? Did you ride it or tow it? Was there any indication of an overheated rear brake? Could you take any pictures of the rear caliper and rotor and the rear brake pedal?

 

[noyes23]

Locked up is probably too harsh of a word. The brake would not release completely and bogged the motor down causing it to stall. There was smoke pouring out of the bleeder valve; once it cooled down, the brake released and I was able to make it back to the shop. They have had it for 2.5 weeks and just advised that the whole rear abs assembly needs to be replaced. I don't have any pics, but appreciate the feedback.

 

[ionbeam]

...They have had it for 2.5 weeks and just advised that the whole rear abs assembly needs to be replaced...

Umm, there is no 'whole rear ABS assembly' unless they are referring to the ABS metering block and pump motor. There is a rear wheel caliper which isn't ABS, it's just a caliper, there are pads, an ABS wheel speed sensor which will light the ABS Trouble light if something is wrong, plus, the sensor does nothing but supply a signal to the ABS ECU (computer) and there is the brake fluid hose that connects to the ABS metering block. The only thing that is ABS is the pump motor and metering block that meters brake fluid pressure or simply passes the brake fluid through to the rear brake caliper.

There have been a couple of instances reported here in the Forum (IIRC) in which the ABS metering block didn't let the pressure release. They bypassed the metering block and things worked normally. It can ever so rarely happen that the inside of the brake hose cracks and lets a little rubber flap obstruct brake fluid movement.

Before going the 'whole rear ABS assembly' route, be sure that the rear axle is assembled correctly, Check that the ABS sensor housing has the tab & slot aligned, the thick washer is in the correct location and (don't laugh, this happens a lot on the rear wheel) be sure the brake pads are on each side of the disk because sometimes due to assembly glitches both pads end up on one side of the disk. As Walter mentions, check the caliper, pistons & seals.

Based on what is being reported about the mechanics monkeys it may be time to look for a better shop, sometimes it's worth spending the money. Brakes R Important. Texas is a big state, there should be a better shop someplace. The brakes on an FJR should not be a problem or a factor in keeping and riding the bike for a very long time. If it turns out the whole metering block needs to be replaced $2k isn't wildly out of the ball park. For some reason, the ABS metering block and ABS pump aren't usually available through parts shops, only dealers. It's almost like it's complicated and they would like to have a TRAINED professional do the work.

Edited to add: I'm away from my computer with the FSM, but there is a proportioning valve for the linked brakes too. This shouldn't be related, but it is in the brake system.

Edited 2 add: A competent mechanic can also look at the error log in the ABS ECU and see if any codes have been set.

 

[wfooshee]

Locked up is probably too harsh of a word. The brake would not release completely and bogged the motor down causing it to stall. There was smoke pouring out of the bleeder valve; once it cooled down, the brake released and I was able to make it back to the shop. They have had it for 2.5 weeks and just advised that the whole rear abs assembly needs to be replaced. I don't have any pics, but appreciate the feedback.

That EXACTLY describes a brake pedal that sticks, and doesn't release.

Look for the thread the guy posted about being stuck in second. near the end he posted a picture of what the pivot of the shifter looked like when he pulled it out. The brake pedal can get just like that, and will hold the rear brake on as if you were still standing on it. Riding like that will get the rear brake HOT. (Which eventually makes the brake feel like it's released because the fluid is boiled and there's no hydraulic connection any more until it cools.)

This is a VERY common issue, and not a hard or expensive fix. Unless damage has actually been done to the caliper. It's also easy to prevent, with an annual (or so) cleanup of the pivot point.

Make sure you get your bike back from those dorks before they work on it any more!!!

 

[Yamalude]

Had same issue with my 06. Removing and lubing the rear brake peddle fixed it.

 

[audiowize]

Well, it's issues like this that are the reason Yelp! exists. Give the dealer a few days to work it out, one would hope that they take care of you. If they don't describe what happened to you in a Yelp! review, then they may take a second crack at fixing things for you.

 

[HotRodZilla]

Noyes23, any update??

 

[ApexGT]

Sounds to me like a seized rear caliper !

 

[RossKean]

The original poster has not been on the Forum since the day after he posted the problem (which was the day he joined). Suspect he's all squared away by now or has gone elsewhere for "help".

 

[BanjoBoy]

I dun had me a pos Bring Mor Wallet R65LS that did this; the front locked. (It's real hard push'in a bike w/ a locked wheel!)

In my case it wuz just a matter of moister get'in in the system. A good flush fixed it.

Noyes23, any update??

^THIS^

Inquiring minds wanta know.

 

[HotRodZilla]

I think Ross may be right.