2006 Carb TB Synch - EMGO Synch Tool

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YamaDude

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I picked up an '06 a few years ago, which I love. It had 42K, and now 56K. I've got Corbin seats and a power commander.

I'm about to do a throttle body synch and plugs.

Q #1: The how-to at FJRTech.com says to use the #3 carb as a baseline for all models, but it was posted in '02. Could someone tell me for sure if this is so for my 2006 ?

Q #2: I'll be receiving an EMGO Synch Tool (pt #84-68594) which I picked up on Amazon for 70 bucks in about 5 days. The reviews were quite good on this item. However, its application to the FJR out of the box seems to be in some question; has anyone else bought this tool recently and can tell me if I will need any additional adapters ? I'd like to get them now, rather than after the tool arrives.

 
While any TB can be used as a reference, it's fairly

common to use #3.

No adapters are needed. Hoses connect directly to TB.

Just take your time to calibrate all four gauges to ONE

TB before proceeding with sync.

 
In the 2006 workshop manual, Yamaha say to use #3 as the base. There doesn't seem to be any particular reason for choosing this one, but I suppose it's possible it's factory set for a particular airflow.

2013 onwards, they mark the "reference" screw with paint and it could be any.

 
Q #2: I'll be receiving an EMGO Synch Tool (pt #84-68594) which I picked up on Amazon for 70 bucks in about 5 days. The reviews were quite good on this item. However, its application to the FJR out of the box seems to be in some question; has anyone else bought this tool recently and can tell me if I will need any additional adapters ? I'd like to get them now, rather than after the tool arrives.
I have one very near the same as this and it is has been collecting dust for a number large number of years. It did not work as advertised. Personally I would send it back as the dial gauges are not worth it.

BTY I now am use the Motion Pro and am very happy with the results.

 
??? The gauges work fine. Plus there's no fluid to get

sucked into your TB when a restrictor falls out. BTDT

 
If you go ahead with the EMGO tool make sure you place a restrictor in each of the 4 lines, close to the throttle bodies. This will help to minimise fluctuations in the readings. Looking at a utube video it appears that the brass adapters act as the restrictor. You will not need the adapters with the FJR as pointed out above.

 
From reading the informative ratings/reviews at Motorcycle Superstore, and viewing pics of it, the EMGO unit comes with 4 little white nylon adjustable restrictors which you have to splice into each rubber vac line. The brass tubes seem to be adapters for other bikes that have holes in the carbs instead of nipples/tubes on the FJR.

 
I performed a TB synch today on my 2008 using the MotionPro synchronizing tool. I synched to TB #1. Rode the bike afterwards and is seemed smoother and power was a little stronger. How important is it to use #3 as the base?

 
One thing about the Motion Pro sync tool: make sure the tubes are all calibrated, i.e. tie them all together and attach to a vacuum source. They should all rise to the same height. If not, you may have to tweak the tubes.

The one I had was way off and also changed with different levels of vacuum, meaning they would all be the same height at one level of vacuum but off again at a different level. That's why I sold it and got a Morgan Carbtune.

 
Make sure the rods in the CarbTune are spotlessly clean. If you have any doubt, take them out and clean them. It's not hard and takes no time at all. I've never worried about which cylinder I use as base. I just make sure they're all even. I don't think I've ever had any cylinder out of spec when I've checked them. It does seem to make a small difference if you get them all even. Easy job to do. Don't lose the little rubber caps. Mama Yamaha is really proud of them and charges accordingly for replacements.

 
Got my new Carbtune Pro4 today and performed the unauthorized TB sync, took about an hour. Previously I used a two channel Harmonizer to do the sync and all seemed well but it seemed that i was getting just a touch more 4 cylinder buzz when riding than before. I thought it was all in my head but the more I thought about it the more I decided that maybe I should be looking at all four TBs at the same time. So, I warmed it up and connected the Carbtune and saw that while not grossly out of sync #1 TB was just slightly over 2 cmHg different than the other TBs. Took about an hour to set all four dead on and after a short ride I can definitely say I can tell a slight but noticeable improvement. The idle also seemed a touch smoother with no variance with the tach solid at 1100 RPM. So long and short is you really do need to look at all four TBs simultaneously. You can get close with a two channel synchronizer but looking at all four is really the way to go. You guys were right.

 
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