2006 cruise control trouble

[FJRocket]

I finally got all the kinks out of my AE's CCS-100... so I thought.

On the test ride, everything was hunky dorey, except that when I pulled the brake lever, the cruise control shut off. Not just drops off, but shuts off. No resume. Have to turn it on again and start all over. Green dot goes out, but the backlighting stays on.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks!

 

[Constant Mesh]

Geez!

Where did you connect the Control Station's red wire? This is the fused wire which is red on one side of the fuse and orange on the other side. The power to this wire should not be affected by brake operation.

 

[FJRocket]

Geez!
Where did you connect the Control Station's red wire? This is the fused wire which is red on one side of the fuse and orange on the other side. The power to this wire should not be affected by brake operation.

That's what I thought. I spliced the moduel's red wire and put the inline fuse back under the seat, then tapped into a wire that was on with the ignition. Maybe I'd better move that to a different wire? I didn't tap that wire into the brake bundle. I have red to blue, purple to yellow, grounds are both good. What else could it be but the red/orange/fuse wire. But you wouldn't think braking would have anything to do with shutting the unit off.

Everything else seems to work fine... So far....

I'll move the fused power wire and see if it makes a difference.

More ideas?

 

[Constant Mesh]

Where did you connect the servo's red and purple wires?

The wiring on the '06 on these two wires would likely be different than what was used on earlier models. The '06 has a brake circuit relay which the earlier models didn't have. The two brake switches (front and rear) are now in series with the coil of this relay. Both switches are normally closed. So when the brakes aren't actuated the relay coil is energized via the brake switches. When one of the brake switches is actuated this breaks the circuit to the coil and the relay drops out. The brake lights come on when the relay drops out (de-energized).

So, connecting on to the two wires at the rear brake switch probably won't work. The addition of the brake circuit relay likely changes the Audiovox wiring connections.

 

[FJRocket]

CM, you were kinda right the first time. Thanks for the hint. Sure enough, the keyed on wire I chose shut off with the brake light. Duh. :blink:

There's a connector plug with 8 wires in it on the left side. There are two wires in it that have power with the key on. I chose unwisely. The yellow wire with the green strip is NOT the one to choose. The brown wire with the white stripe worked great.

Just got back from a road test, and everything is AOK. Worked pretty good without a check valve, even on the hills. Well, the test ride was to the auto parts store, so now I'm ready.

 

[Thug]

I finally got all the kinks out of my AE's CCS-100... so I thought.
On the test ride, everything was hunky dorey, except that when I pulled the brake lever, the cruise control shut off. Not just drops off, but shuts off. No resume. Have to turn it on again and start all over. Green dot goes out, but the backlighting stays on.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks!

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't that what's supposed to happen i.e. cruise control active pull brake on cruise goes off for safety reasons so one can stop????? or am I on the wrong page?

 

[Rogue]

I finally got all the kinks out of my AE's CCS-100... so I thought.

On the test ride, everything was hunky dorey, except that when I pulled the brake lever, the cruise control shut off. Not just drops off, but shuts off. No resume. Have to turn it on again and start all over. Green dot goes out, but the backlighting stays on.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks!

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't that what's supposed to happen i.e. cruise control active pull brake on cruise goes off for safety reasons so one can stop????? or am I on the wrong page?

Yea but the CC stays powered up and you just hit resume and it goes back to the same speed, on his the unit is powering off and needs to be turned back on and reset.

 

[Shane Stump]

CM, you were kinda right the first time. Thanks for the hint. Sure enough, the keyed on wire I chose shut off with the brake light. Duh. :blink:
There's a connector plug with 8 wires in it on the left side. There are two wires in it that have power with the key on. I chose unwisely. The yellow wire with the green strip is NOT the one to choose. The brown wire with the greenish stripe worked great.

Just got back from a road test, and everything is AOK. Worked pretty good without a check valve, even on the hills. Well, the test ride was to the auto parts store, so now I'm ready.

FJ,

How long BEFORE you post detailed instructions / photos for US mere IDIOTS on installtion !

Thanks for all the help!

Best Regards,

Shane

 

[FJRocket]

Shane, I already posted pictures on another thread of the AE part of the install. It notes that the only difference between the AE and A is all the computer modules in the tool tray. The wiring is the same as the A model and that has already been covered extensivley. Removing the tool tray is pretty easy, even without instructions. And the seat height adjuster still drops right back in place for you tall guys.

AE Cruise Install

Only other difference might be where I chose to get the main power for the unit. That's where I screwed up, but the brown wire in the 8 wire plug under the tray is a good source and works fine.

Before I attached anything, I chose which wires were going where, then installed the wires going forward into the corrugated sleeve. I snaked the sleeve with wires, then the cable and then the vacuum hose up under the left side of the frame (although the right side would be just as easy). I installed extra wires in the sleeve for future farkles. There's not much room in there, mine is now full, and I was not able to fold excess wire back into the bundle, even using thin wall aircraft wire. Later on, I may just have to run another sleeve up the other side of the frame for more farkle wires.

10 wire plug wires:

Purple wire to yellow wire in tail light bundle along lower left. There are nice pics of this on a couple other threads on the '06 install.

Red wire to blue wire in tail light bundle along lower left.

The BLUE wire went directly to my coil. You can use either outboard wire for a signal. I used the outermost wire on the outermost coil under the side panel behind the battery. Other '06 installers have said that they used a wire on the ECM module, but I have no info on that. I did the coil wire like I did on my '04. To get this wire to the coil, I ran it through a "cone" or "funnel" under the front right frame. That was put there at the factory to run wires to the battery area. I couldn't get a picture of it, but it's there, and it's a good place to run that blue wire (or wires to the battery) forward. This way they are still hidden and protected, not coming out of the frame out in the elements. The wires come up through the funnel and into the battery bay near the fuse blocks. It takes a bit of fishing to get the wires up through there, but it does work, and makes for a clean install. If you are running battery wires to the back for a fuse block, this is a good place to do it. I started with a 16 guage aircraft wire, which is pretty stiff, and taped the other wires I wanted to run to that bigger stiff wire. That made it easier to get them all (just 3 wires for me) in at once.

There are two black wires (one is at the module), and both have to be grounded. I grounded one to the ABS Brake line manifold between the tank and the triple tree on the right side of the frame. The other I went to my 5025 fuse block, but on my '04 I just used one of the srews in the frame under the front seat near the tank.

I spliced the fused red/orange wire in line so that it was back under the seat and connected it to the BROWN/WHITE wire coming from an 8 wire plug on the lower left area where all the wires are under the tool tray. I didn't want to have to open the battery cover like on my '04, so I spliced in a long piece of auto wire to the red wire in the 4 color plug to the control module. Now the 3 amp fuse is under my seat where I can get to it easily. I hope all my farkle fuses will end up under the seat.

The yellow, green and brown wires just go to the control module plug. That control module plug will probably go through the opening in the frame where the ABS lines exit out the front under the triple tree.

There is a double wire that is black and grey combined. I left both of those wires together and they are just bundled up under the servo under the seat. I will probably cut those off, now that I'm certain they are not needed in the AE or any other FJR so far.

-------

The choice you have to make is whether you are willing to give up the tool tray in order to put the servo under the seat. You may not feel comfortable relocating that expensive computer module. If you don't want to do that, then go back and search for the instructions on mounting the servo under the saddlebag.

I was hoping the install would go better than it did. It still took me a day and a half without all the other stuff I did at the same time. And I haven't tidied up the stuff under the seat yet.

I can say that the CC works great with the clicker shifter. I was in cruise, cramed down a gear and the cruise shut off just like it's supposed to.

 

[Thug]

I finally got all the kinks out of my AE's CCS-100... so I thought.

On the test ride, everything was hunky dorey, except that when I pulled the brake lever, the cruise control shut off. Not just drops off, but shuts off. No resume. Have to turn it on again and start all over. Green dot goes out, but the backlighting stays on.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks!

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't that what's supposed to happen i.e. cruise control active pull brake on cruise goes off for safety reasons so one can stop????? or am I on the wrong page?

Yea but the CC stays powered up and you just hit resume and it goes back to the same speed, on his the unit is powering off and needs to be turned back on and reset.

Oh right I'm up with it now thanks Rogue :blink:

 

[Shane Stump]

Shane, I already posted pictures on another thread of the AE part of the install. It notes that the only difference between the AE and A is all the computer modules in the tool tray. The wiring is the same as the A model and that has already been covered extensivley. Removing the tool tray is pretty easy, even without instructions. And the seat height adjuster still drops right back in place for you tall guys.
AE Cruise Install

Only other difference might be where I chose to get the main power for the unit. That's where I screwed up, but the brown wire in the 8 wire plug under the tray is a good source and works fine.

Before I attached anything, I chose which wires were going where, then installed the wires going forward into the corrugated sleeve. I snaked the sleeve with wires, then the cable and then the vacuum hose up under the left side of the frame (although the right side would be just as easy). I installed extra wires in the sleeve for future farkles. There's not much room in there, mine is now full, and I was not able to fold excess wire back into the bundle, even using thin wall aircraft wire. Later on, I may just have to run another sleeve up the other side of the frame for more farkle wires.

10 wire plug wires:

Purple wire to yellow wire in tail light bundle along lower left. There are nice pics of this on a couple other threads on the '06 install.

Red wire to blue wire in tail light bundle along lower left.

The BLUE wire went directly to my coil. You can use either outboard wire for a signal. I used the outermost wire on the outermost coil under the side panel behind the battery. Other '06 installers have said that they used a wire on the ECM module, but I have no info on that. I did the coil wire like I did on my '04. To get this wire to the coil, I ran it through a "cone" or "funnel" under the front right frame. That was put there at the factory to run wires to the battery area. I couldn't get a picture of it, but it's there, and it's a good place to run that blue wire (or wires to the battery) forward. This way they are still hidden and protected, not coming out of the frame out in the elements. The wires come up through the funnel and into the battery bay near the fuse blocks. It takes a bit of fishing to get the wires up through there, but it does work, and makes for a clean install. If you are running battery wires to the back for a fuse block, this is a good place to do it. I started with a 16 guage aircraft wire, which is pretty stiff, and taped the other wires I wanted to run to that bigger stiff wire. That made it easier to get them all (just 3 wires for me) in at once.

There are two black wires (one is at the module), and both have to be grounded. I grounded one to the ABS Brake line manifold between the tank and the triple tree on the right side of the frame. The other I went to my 5025 fuse block, but on my '04 I just used one of the srews in the frame under the front seat near the tank.

I spliced the fused red/orange wire in line so that it was back under the seat and connected it to the BROWN/WHITE wire coming from an 8 wire plug on the lower left area where all the wires are under the tool tray. I didn't want to have to open the battery cover like on my '04, so I spliced in a long piece of auto wire to the red wire in the 4 color plug to the control module. Now the 3 amp fuse is under my seat where I can get to it easily. I hope all my farkle fuses will end up under the seat.

The yellow, green and brown wires just go to the control module plug. That control module plug will probably go through the opening in the frame where the ABS lines exit out the front under the triple tree.

There is a double wire that is black and grey combined. I left both of those wires together and they are just bundled up under the servo under the seat. I will probably cut those off, now that I'm certain they are not needed in the AE or any other FJR so far.

-------

The choice you have to make is whether you are willing to give up the tool tray in order to put the servo under the seat. You may not feel comfortable relocating that expensive computer module. If you don't want to do that, then go back and search for the instructions on mounting the servo under the saddlebag.

I was hoping the install would go better than it did. It still took me a day and a half without all the other stuff I did at the same time. And I haven't tidied up the stuff under the seat yet.

I can say that the CC works great with the clicker shifter. I was in cruise, cramed down a gear and the cruise shut off just like it's supposed to.

Thanks for all the work!

Best Regards,

Shane

 

[FJRocket]

Test rode my CLICKER with CRUISE for about 250 miles. Cruise was spot on. No aux cannister, not even any clips or tied on the hoses. I did install a check valve, however. SWEET!