bugmaster88
New member
2011 model. When turning the bike off, the windshield adjustment arms make a loud squeak and also are jerky when moving back to the low position. Anyone else encountered this problem? Thanks.
2011 windshield squeaks and jumps when lowered to off position
- Thread starter bugmaster88
- Start date
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escapefjrtist
Searching for Dry Roads
Many times. Windshield glides are dirty / dry and need some lube.
Typically the nose plastic needs to be removed to get to the glides. Several threads detailing the procedure. After you've done it once, it's easy!
Good luck
--G
Typically the nose plastic needs to be removed to get to the glides. Several threads detailing the procedure. After you've done it once, it's easy!
Good luck
--G
Last edited by a moderator:
bluesdog
Well-known member
Once you get the nose plastic off, here's what you'll be looking at:
The thing was clearly designed by a Japanese fan of Rube Goldberg.
Anyway, after you clean it up, check the cable tension. The tension device is indicated by the red arrow. Apparently there's an official Yamma-tool to calibrate the cable tension, but I just loosened the lock nut, took up a little slack, and after all the pulleys were working, snugged it up a little more, so all the cable runs were fairly taut.
Also, I used 1000 grit fine wet/dry and metal polish to put a mirror smooth finish on the rails where the nylon bushings run, then lubed the thing using moly 60, not lithium grease.
Another thing to watch is those stupid rubber gaskets in the fairing slots where the windshield arms run. They can bind, so either remove them or lube 'em with something like armor-all.
BTW, since you have the nose, and most of the tupperware off, check all the fasteners. On my '11 a couple of hard-to-get at screws joining the front sections were loose when I did my first fairing removal. Snug 'em up, but don't be too enthusiastic, and avoid using threadlocker -- it eats ABS!
Good luck.
The thing was clearly designed by a Japanese fan of Rube Goldberg.
Anyway, after you clean it up, check the cable tension. The tension device is indicated by the red arrow. Apparently there's an official Yamma-tool to calibrate the cable tension, but I just loosened the lock nut, took up a little slack, and after all the pulleys were working, snugged it up a little more, so all the cable runs were fairly taut.
Also, I used 1000 grit fine wet/dry and metal polish to put a mirror smooth finish on the rails where the nylon bushings run, then lubed the thing using moly 60, not lithium grease.
Another thing to watch is those stupid rubber gaskets in the fairing slots where the windshield arms run. They can bind, so either remove them or lube 'em with something like armor-all.
BTW, since you have the nose, and most of the tupperware off, check all the fasteners. On my '11 a couple of hard-to-get at screws joining the front sections were loose when I did my first fairing removal. Snug 'em up, but don't be too enthusiastic, and avoid using threadlocker -- it eats ABS!
Good luck.
One more suggestion: Pull the auto windshield retract jumper and eliminate the problem altogether. What a stupid feature.
Donal
Well-known member
wheatonFJR
...
Change the oil while yer at it.
It's easy and fun to do.
It's easy and fun to do.
