bob61
Active member
My 2010 is running great Do I really need the dealer to replace the sparkplugs? Other maintenance done myself. Do the plugs at 8000 miles look so bad that they need to be replaced?
8000 miles and running good. Do I need new plugs?
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RossKean
Well-known member
I certainly wouldn't expect plugs to be bad at 8000. Maybe 20000; longer for NGK iridiums
08FJR4ME
-WYNPRO-
That is the suggested maintenance interval from what I believe. I just change mine with over 20K on them and yes they needed changing. I was swapping them out every spring but decided to skip last year. My guess 15K would be about write.
Dave
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hppants
Well-known member
Put 16K on my last set of OEM NGK plugs. They all gapped within 0.005" of their installation. Absolutely perfect ash color. This qualifies for a NEPRD, but IMO, you can go for a while longer.
Regardless, if you have even the slightest bit of mechanical ability, and can follow the information below, there is no need to visit the dealer.
https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/sparkplugs.html
Good luck
Regardless, if you have even the slightest bit of mechanical ability, and can follow the information below, there is no need to visit the dealer.
https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/sparkplugs.html
Good luck
bob61
Active member
I might try to replace the plugs. Doesn't look to hard. Got all the tools from working on cars, but that was some time ago when you listened to the engine to figure out what was wrong instead of a computer. But must admit liking fuel injectors much better than messing with carbs.
SoCalFJR1300
Well-known member
Abercrombie FJR
Well-known member
Chuck35
Well-known member
Warm the engine a bit before you start. The chance of a frozen plug is much less when the head is warm.
Bugnatr
Well-known member
Nope unless you mileage drops off, then throw in some Iridium's and ride.
I run Iridiums and figure changing them at valve check intervals. Speaking of Iridiums... I changed them in my Honda Pilot @ 90,000 and they looked great, the car ran fine and the new plugs didn't increase my fuel mileage over the old ones. I wonder just how long they could go before performance drop off would be noticed?
hppants
Well-known member
While we are discussing this, we might as well address the "To never-sez or not to never-sez? That is the question." issue.
NGK says that plug metal is coated with something that resist seizing. I say a very light coating of never sieze can't hurt. Also, forget the torque spec for the plugs - way too tight. Go until you feel the crush washer crush, then just a little more (1/16th of a turn more).
I swear, I've never seen a set of spark plugs look so clean burning after 16K miles - f/i, carbed, or otherwise.
NGK says that plug metal is coated with something that resist seizing. I say a very light coating of never sieze can't hurt. Also, forget the torque spec for the plugs - way too tight. Go until you feel the crush washer crush, then just a little more (1/16th of a turn more).
I swear, I've never seen a set of spark plugs look so clean burning after 16K miles - f/i, carbed, or otherwise.
RossKean
Well-known member
Judge for yourself on the anti-seize. I always used to use it until I came across this NGK Technical Bulletin. I did not use any for the last two plug changes and had no issues. It probably doesn't hurt anything if you use a modest amount of anti-seize and are very careful to avoid overtightening the plugs.
1) Need to change at 8k? No. But at three years? Maybe
As others have said, your plugs are probably fine at 8k miles. But if this is the first 8k I'd pull them out just to get a look at them, and remove them from the head for the first time. You have a three year old bike. I'd want to get them out at least once by now.
2) If ever I am bothering to remove the plugs, I wouldn't waste my time putting the old ones back in for the paltry price per plug that it takes to buy new ones. If you need to mail order the plugs, try RockAuto.com. CR8E plugs are available for $3.50 each there.
3) Anti-sieze no. Torque wrench yes.
There is no need for anti-seize as NGK plates the threads so they will not gall in an alloy head. If you use anti-seize you risk over-torquing them and stripping the head.
If you do not use anti-seize then you can use your a good torque wrench to install them.
And, if you don't use a torque wrench (because you can't when you use anti-seize grease) you risk under-torquing the plug.
Even if tightened a proper amount (to crush the gasket and not damage the threads), there will always be less friction in the threads as compared to the dry ones, and you risk having a plug that loosens and eventually rip the threads out of the head.
This actually happened to me on a SAAB alloy head. It blew the plug out of the head and destroyed the expensive (plug-on-cap) coils. I will never use anti-seize on spark plugs again. Consider that if a plug blew out of an FJR head it would probably also put a hole the bottom of the gas tank, not a pretty thought.
4) Iridium plugs are a waste of money on an FJR. Discussed in too much detail here
Summary:
FJRs are a "wasted spark" ignition design, which means that two plugs fire from the center to the side electrode, and the other two fire from the side to the center. NGK iridium plugs are only iridium on the center electrode. The side electrode is the same as the conventional plugs'. So for all intents they operate the same as a conventional plug on the two plugs that fire from the side in.
Will you want to take them out half way through and rotate the plugs? Probably not.
Even if this were not the case (wasted spark) you will probably never wear out a set of the regular plugs before you'll want to pull them out anyway, why on earth would you need to use an iridium plug?
Iridium plugs are intended for use in High Energy Ignition systems that call for plug replacement at 100k miles. If you don't intend to leave those plugs in there at least 50k miles, then don't bother with them, just use the regular plugs. Regular plugs will go 16k miles easy, and they cost half as much (or less).
Others will chime in now about how they installed iridium plugs and their engine runs so much better, gets better fuel mileage and a host of other benefits. Sugar pills can provide great health benefits, too. YMMV
As others have said, your plugs are probably fine at 8k miles. But if this is the first 8k I'd pull them out just to get a look at them, and remove them from the head for the first time. You have a three year old bike. I'd want to get them out at least once by now.
2) If ever I am bothering to remove the plugs, I wouldn't waste my time putting the old ones back in for the paltry price per plug that it takes to buy new ones. If you need to mail order the plugs, try RockAuto.com. CR8E plugs are available for $3.50 each there.
3) Anti-sieze no. Torque wrench yes.
There is no need for anti-seize as NGK plates the threads so they will not gall in an alloy head. If you use anti-seize you risk over-torquing them and stripping the head.
If you do not use anti-seize then you can use your a good torque wrench to install them.
And, if you don't use a torque wrench (because you can't when you use anti-seize grease) you risk under-torquing the plug.
Even if tightened a proper amount (to crush the gasket and not damage the threads), there will always be less friction in the threads as compared to the dry ones, and you risk having a plug that loosens and eventually rip the threads out of the head.
This actually happened to me on a SAAB alloy head. It blew the plug out of the head and destroyed the expensive (plug-on-cap) coils. I will never use anti-seize on spark plugs again. Consider that if a plug blew out of an FJR head it would probably also put a hole the bottom of the gas tank, not a pretty thought.
4) Iridium plugs are a waste of money on an FJR. Discussed in too much detail here
Summary:
FJRs are a "wasted spark" ignition design, which means that two plugs fire from the center to the side electrode, and the other two fire from the side to the center. NGK iridium plugs are only iridium on the center electrode. The side electrode is the same as the conventional plugs'. So for all intents they operate the same as a conventional plug on the two plugs that fire from the side in.
Will you want to take them out half way through and rotate the plugs? Probably not.
Even if this were not the case (wasted spark) you will probably never wear out a set of the regular plugs before you'll want to pull them out anyway, why on earth would you need to use an iridium plug?
Iridium plugs are intended for use in High Energy Ignition systems that call for plug replacement at 100k miles. If you don't intend to leave those plugs in there at least 50k miles, then don't bother with them, just use the regular plugs. Regular plugs will go 16k miles easy, and they cost half as much (or less).
Others will chime in now about how they installed iridium plugs and their engine runs so much better, gets better fuel mileage and a host of other benefits. Sugar pills can provide great health benefits, too. YMMV
Afast03nNJ
Well-known member
This thing had spark plugs? I thought it was mice that powered it....
