90 degree valve stems

[dunedude]

Because if the comments on ths board, I had one of these installed with a new rear tire 5000 miles ago.

I got back yesterday from a 3500+ mile trip from Phoenix to Glacier and Yellowstone. There was a bunch of road construction on my trip which I think contributed to my issue. Lots of bumps and jarring.

The short story is... I had a flat on the rear just 25 miles short of home. Found the valve seal at the wheel to be leaking when I pushed down on the stem. This also happens readily at speed because of the centrifical forces. Cycle Gear, who installed the tire and valve, told me yesterday that the FJR wheels are not designed for this type of valve (but some bikes are, like the Goldwing). I wish they would have told me that at the installation. They told me that those forces on the stem causes failure of the seal at the wheel and is a known issue.

Running low pressure caused the tire to warp and go oblong in several areas. So I had to replace the tire too.

Anyway, I went back to the stock straight valve with the new tire and expect no more issues.

I though you might like to know.

Other than that, the trip was GREAT! :yahoo:

 

[Fred W]

The install instructions specifically state to install the back nut with threadlocking compound (locktite). What do you want to bet the boneheads that installed that valve for you didn't follow the directions?

And their CYA spiel about the wheel not being designed for it is pure BS. Many owners many miles with 90 degree stems. None have loosened up when properly installed.

One more point: Centrifugal forces would seat the valve further into the wheel, not unseat it. The seal goes onto the stem first, then the stem is threaded through the hole, and the nut goes on last (ends up inside of the tire), pulling the stem into the seal. Sheesh...

 

[MartyA]

... do you want to bet the boneheads that installed that valve for you didn't follow the directions? "

Yeah, they are FOS! I have 20,000 miles on mine and 5 tire changes and I have not lost 1lb of pressure in over a year, including 6 months of winter storage (twice) in the middle of that 20,000 miles.

I *might* consider centrifugal force to be an issue if you could spin the wheel at 10,000 RPM, but my guess is the tire would unseat first...

Morons, I'd say.

 

[johnny80s]

I have cycle gear valve stems and they work great. I did have to tighten them up after I got them as the dealer that installed them with my new tires on was an idiot. Gotta love North County Yamaha.

 

[meosborn]

One more point: Centrifugal forces would seat the valve further into the wheel, not unseat it. The seal goes onto the stem first, then the stem is threaded through the hole, and the nut goes on last (ends up inside of the tire), pulling the stem into the seal. Sheesh...

I haven't had any problems with mine either but if they weren't tightened correctly I could see how centrifugal force could cause it to leak. Since the stem sticks out to the side the centrifugal force might make it "tilt" instead of pushing it straight in. That tilt could break the seal and allow air to escape.

 

[reecebike]

We use them every day at the shop never had A problem!! Done A bunch of fjr & hundreds of yamahas; Sounds like how can I say it BULL SHIT!!!!

 

[luvtoride]

I also call bullshit. Sounds like he is trying to get out of any blame. I had a new wheel put on my bike awhile back. Mech swapped 90 degree valve from old rim to new with no problems... since he actually installed it correctly.

 

[bmwhd]

Let's be clear: Are you talking about these:

or these:

If the former (which is all Cycle Gear normally sells) then these are NOT suitable for the FJR. I've had them fail at speed on the highway. The rubber base can't take the force of sustained high speed travel.

 

[zenwhipper]

I got 3000 miles on mine and have had NO issues. I got the gold ones from Bike Effects:

Scoot

 

[fjrrider]

I got 3000 miles on mine and have had NO issues. I got the gold ones from Bike Effects:

Scoot

I've got the same ones (got um at NAFO) not had any problems at all!!

 

[Fred W]

Let's be clear: Are you talking about these:

or these:

If the former (which is all Cycle Gear normally sells) then these are NOT suitable for the FJR. I've had them fail at speed on the highway. The rubber base can't take the force of sustained high speed travel.

Ah ha... Now it starts to make sense. No I would not put one of the first ones on my bike (any bike) regardless of the rim configuration. And I can now see how the centrifugal force would screw one of those up.

 

[dunedude]

Let's be clear: Are you talking about these:

or these:

If the former (which is all Cycle Gear normally sells) then these are NOT suitable for the FJR. I've had them fail at speed on the highway. The rubber base can't take the force of sustained high speed travel.

The top ones are what they installed. I didn't know the other ones shown below even existed. No wonder they failed.

Thanks for the info.

 

[Fred W]

Sorry I jumped all over you. The only ones that I had ever seen extolled here, and the ones I have on my bike are the other kind. Hence my talking about nuts and using locktight.

But now you know what to buy!!

 

[Pierre]

You got me scared, just have them installed on my bike ( 2nd type ), happy that you clear it up !

When I had to replace my %$?&$%% BT021 with only 3000 miles on them :angry03: :angry03: :angry03: , with PR2s !!!!

 

[griffithds]

I have a set, the approved type, waiting for my next set of Pr2's. I didn't get installation instructions. I didn't think installation instructions were needed for a valve stem but the comment about the use of loctite did kind of take me by suprise. Never would have thought of doing that. It's amazing just how much a person can learn from this site. Thanks!

 

[MartyA]

Ooops Sorry. I was also considering only the 2nd set (the 89 degree ones). They come with threadlock, and I couldn't imagine the Loctite failing like that. I can't even imagine someone thinking those others would be acceptable.

Guess there are yet further depths of ignorance that can be expected from dealer-stealers...... :angry2:

 

[Fred W]

I have a set, the approved type, waiting for my next set of Pr2's. I didn't get installation instructions. I didn't think installation instructions were needed for a valve stem but the comment about the use of loctite did kind of take me by suprise. Never would have thought of doing that. It's amazing just how much a person can learn from this site. Thanks!

Just looked. The instructions that I received came from the vendor (Bike Effects), who also happens to have a great price on these little gems on his web site, plus provides a standing FJR forum discount. Good people.

The instruction card is copyrighted, so I can not reproduce them for you here, but the gist of it is to install them with Loctite 242 or equivalent threadlocker and tighten to 10Nm (88 in lbs). Because the body and nut are aluminum they warn about overtightening.

Even though these valves work great, and I've never heard of any malfunctions when installed properly, the engineer geek in me would still like it better if there was one difference: When you inflate the tire the air pressure will try and push the rubber sealing grommet back out the same direction it was installed from. This is counter-intuitive, in my mind. I'd like it better if the grommet was installed from the inside somehow so that the air pressure actually improves the sealing rather than as it is.

But I guess it's not broke, so why fix it?

 

[griffithds]

I have a set, the approved type, waiting for my next set of Pr2's. I didn't get installation instructions. I didn't think installation instructions were needed for a valve stem but the comment about the use of loctite did kind of take me by suprise. Never would have thought of doing that. It's amazing just how much a person can learn from this site. Thanks!

Just looked. The instructions that I received came from the vendor (Bike Effects), who also happens to have a great price on these little gems on his web site, plus provides a standing FJR forum discount. Good people.

The instruction card is copyrighted, so I can not reproduce them for you here, but the gist of it is to install them with Loctite 242 or equivalent threadlocker and tighten to 10Nm (88 in lbs). Because the body and nut are aluminum they warn about overtightening.

Even though these valves work great, and I've never heard of any malfunctions when installed properly, the engineer geek in me would still like it better if there was one difference: When you inflate the tire the air pressure will try and push the rubber sealing grommet back out the same direction it was installed from. This is counter-intuitive, in my mind. I'd like it better if the grommet was installed from the inside somehow so that the air pressure actually improves the sealing rather than as it is.

But I guess it's not broke, so why fix it?

Thanks for the info! :thumbsup: