A Trip Across America

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Gurock

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Location
Chicago, IL
All winter my friend Brian and I had been planning a grand tour of the western half of America from Chicago. Some of you may hold against Brian that he rides a BMW R1200R, but we can't all be perfect. I being the wiser of the two of us took my 06 FJR AE.

We made numerous preparations in equipment and planning. We also made a number of small three or four day trips to iron out kinks before we set out on weeks in travel. Our basic plan was to leave Chicago on a Saturday morning and ride like bats out of hell to central Colorado. We were going to then tour the mountains of Colorado for some days, move on to the southern half of Utah and tour for several days. After Utah and figuring that our minds and bodies would be getting tired from riding we were going to do a fast run from Cedar City Utah to San Diego.

I have brothers in San Diego and we could stay with them ride much less for a few days while we rested and recovered. After San Diego we were going to ride north through California touring in California for a few days, then moving on through north Nevada, south Idaho and into Wyoming and Montana for a few days in the Grand Tetons, Yellowstone area. Finally we would ride like heck through South Dakota, Minnesota and Wisconsin to get back to Chicago again.

Our plan involved motels and not camping. Were not getting any younger, a bed, shower, and no camping equipment to haul or set up looked good, It also allowed us more space to carry riding gear for all the different climates and conditions we would encounter in the varied geographies that we would encounter. We thought that we should be prepared with cold weather gear for places like Beartooth Pass and cooling vests for places like the Mojave Desert. Multiple gloves and enough clothes to avoid laundry every couple days. Most of this worked out well. We never ended up needing to use the cooling vests, but on the other hand I used my heated jacket liner quite a bit and discovered that I never need to plug in my heated gloves as the FJR heated grips proved sufficient.

My basics were a pair of Firstgear mesh riding pants, two kevlar lined jeans, a first gear rain pants/rain jacket set. A Tourmaster Synergy heated jacket/gloves and various light and medium gloves. Obviously the normal shirts/socks/undies and such along with an Olympia transition jacket and Fieldsheer mesh jacket. I used my FJR side cases and a Givi E 55 top case avoiding any need to tie down luggage. Also a Shoei Quest helmet.

Brian went a little different bringing a second helmet and all Olympia outer gear with the same Tourmaster heated gear. He used his BMW side cases and a Wolfman 55 liter water proof bag.

In the end most of the gear worked out well, I discovered that the mesh jacket suited me better and never used my Olympia jacket, but Brian sometimes used my Olympia jacket over his to avoid heated gear and as I'm a good deal bigger size.

We also had Sena SMH 10 communications and I phones. The Sena equipment works fairly well when it's working, I've had my troubles with it as I've had a broken unit that was replaced at my expense before this trip and late in this trip my adapter to go to earbuds broke.

All this as it was we finally got to take off on a Saturday morning late in May, the 18th. a little of a late start that morning, but not to bad. We rode our butts through St Louis and on through Missouri into Kansas on I 55 into I 70, then somewhere in Kansas just a little before Salina our first tribulation hit. We got caught in the north side of the terrible storm that took out Moore, Oklahoma. It was storming like a dog and we were having trouble seeing in front of the bikes. We took some temporary relief under a gas station canopy and regrouped. I ended up finding a motel twenty miles up the road and when the storm eased a little we went on down to end the first day.

We started back out from near Salina, KS not as early as we would have liked, we'd gone till late the night before and were a little worn, but headed on west. All went well into Colorado when we got caught in the next round of the same basic storm. We took a late lunch break and broke out rain gear to move on. We hit Colorado Springs about seven that evening and decided a good dinner and motel would be best. Starting into the mountains near dark didn't seem best and we figured that we'd earned steak and beer.

Colorado Springs, being a college town (home of the Air Force Academy) has lots of restaurants and motels so a stek joint and Holiday Inn Express were easy. BTW we used Hotwire and Travelocity secret mostly and kept our nightly motels down to an average of about $65.00 that we divided by two. It all worked out pretty well and we were ready for the mountains in the morning.

The next morning we headed out to Pike's Peak with plans of riding to the top. While the sign said open to the top, when we went up to enter the ranger turned us back. He said there was a combination of snow and ice on the road above about 12,000 feet that wouldn't work for our bikes. So figuring that we'd go on with the day we headed for Cripple Creek, CO which was supposed to be a good ride and nice to visit. It was a great ride, but as we approached town it began to snow. Snow in late May, but there it was. So discretion being the better part of valor we quickly looked at the town and bea a hasty retreat for somewhat lower mountain roads. we spent the rest of the day riding mountains and valleys west of Cripple Creek and at about 4:00 ended up in Frisco, CO near to I 70. I had this bright idea of getting on I 70 to CO 131 and taking 131 to 134 through Kremmling, CO and back down on US 40 to stay near US 40 and I 70. As we got on I 70 west it began to snow. We tried to keep going for a little bit, but soon beat a hasty retreat back to Frisco for the night.

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With this written, I'll try to post continuations every day or two to finish the story as time gets too late and I have to catch up work after a three week ride vacation.

 
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Mike, you own the perfect motorcycle to do such a thing. You should do it, it's a hoot!

 
Gixxer--- I thouhght the Specialized was the perfect bike.... but I could probably cover the coast to coast part in less than 50 days on the FJR as opposed to a bicycle
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With this written, I'll try to post continuations every day or two to finish the story as time gets too late and I have to catch up work after a three week ride vacation.
Good stuff! Keep it coming!

I'm getting the itch to get back out west...

Gixxer--- I thouhght the Specialized was the perfect bike.... but I could probably cover the coast to coast part in less than 50 days on the FJR as opposed to a bicycle
rolleyes.gif
50 days?!

More like 50 hours.

Seriously.

 
With this written, I'll try to post continuations every day or two to finish the story as time gets too late and I have to catch up work after a three week ride vacation.
Good stuff! Keep it coming!

I'm getting the itch to get back out west...

Gixxer--- I thouhght the Specialized was the perfect bike.... but I could probably cover the coast to coast part in less than 50 days on the FJR as opposed to a bicycle
rolleyes.gif
50 days?!

More like 50 hours.

Seriously.
It took 50 days on a B_I_C_Y_C_L_E ......as in pedaling
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No, he's saying you can ride coast to coast in under 50 hours on a motorcycle. Actually, it's funny you used the number 50 because there's the 50cc ride with the iron butt association that is for just that.

 
I have never ridden that far on a Motorcycle.... I enjoyed what you wrote so far... and look forward to future updates

I did ride my bicycle from Astoria Oregon to the coast of New Hampshire https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/?doc_id=2509 so I get the concept
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My son is doing something similar this summer to raise money for the Lineberger Cancer Center at UNC

(https://unclineberger.org/)

A group of riders (mostly Boy Scouts) started in Maryland on Monday and is riding to Astoria OR. 3700 miles total.

Details here:

https://www.lucky13biketrip.com/

donations here: https://goo.gl/fseYa

(sorry - couldn't resist. 100% of donations goes to Lineberger)

 
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Snow in Colorado or Wyoming isn't odd even in June. I'll get to that later.

So the night in Frisco we checked into a Comfort Inn near the I 70 and had dinner in a local Mexican restaurant with beer and whiskey there after. In the morning I went back to my idea of taking I 70 west to Colorado 131 north and Colorado 134 over Gore Pass into Kremmling. It was a fun ride with more grades and turns then you can count. I'd done it a couple of times before on other trips. I knew what to expect but could do it again anytime and wanted Brian to see it.

We stopped for a break in Kremmling had some lunch and moved on. I called up Rocky Mountain National Park and asked if the pass was open on US 34 through the park to Estes Park, as we were planning on going through Rocky Mountain National Park. They told us that US 34 was closed at the top for snow and that we would end up having to turn around so we ditched that plan.

We decided that we would take I 40 through Steamboat Springs and over Rabbit Ears Pass instead. I'd never done that stretch before and the mountains were pretty magnificent through the pass. We stayed on US 40 through the more flat land and ended the day going up US 40 to Dinosaur and cutting south on CO 64 and then CO 139 going over Douglas Pass and staying the night at a no to memorable motel in Grand Junction. It was a great day as we got to go over three major passes, Gore, Rabbit Ears and Douglas. Every Colorado pass has a good share of steep rides with turns of every nature.

This first picture is of the town of Cripple Creek and belongs with the day before. The other pictures are of mountain pass sections and one at a reservoir in the valley.

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I'm trying to break this up into days to an amount and I do suffer from lack of memory. Try being 57 and going back to a 22 day motorcycle trip in your mind after you've taken time to catch up work and recover. Also I have a feeling that the picture I said was of Cripple Creek may be of the town in Frisco.

Anyway, The next morning we left Grand Junction with the goal of riding the US 550 from Montrose through Silverton and Durangp to end up in Cortez at the end of the night. At the last minute leaving in the morning I had the bright Idea that it would be boring if we took I 70 a mile or two to US 50 and US 50 to US 550. I decided that we should take I 70 back east to CO 330/65 and through the Mesa National forest over another mountain. It turned out to be a great idea as this crosses over another mountain and through the Mesa National Forest getting up near 9,000 feet and through a great set of canyons.

We came out at Delta where CO 65 intersects with US 550 and set south through the "Million Dollar Highway and Montrose/Silverton and Durango. You can never go wrong on that highway. It's one of the worlds most beautiful costing a million dollars to build back about 90 years ago (at the time being the most expensive highway ever built, I think).

Just an aside. I have a bad habit of wanting to ride with no one in front of me and if there's someone at all in the way I'll find a way to pass wheter or not there's a double yellow line. Part of why the FJR is so good for me. At 55 you kick down to 3rd or even 2nd and take off like you're being launched from an aircraft carrier. I passed through this same section of highway several years ago on a Suzuki Burgman 650, which isn't in the speed class of an FJR, but still has some get up and go. Coming out of Silverton towards Durango there was a group of slow cars going around and around down the mountain with no legal way to pass. I said hell to myself and just ignored the double yellow line and did it anyway. The front car was a white Chevy Blazer and as I passed it I noticed it had flashers on top and was a county sheriff's car. As soon as I was done passing his lights went on he pulled me over and asked me about the double yellow line. Being a self respecting highway outlaw I said "What double Yellow Line, I didn't see it". He was pretty nice about it. He gave me a lecture on how many motorcycle guys he'd scrapped up off the mountain in his twenty years as a sheriff and gave me a pass.

Coming down this way with Brian I was still remembering this episode and was thinking that I sure didn't want to meet the same sheriffs. Somewhere nearer to Silverton than Ouray coming down the mountain from the Red Mountain pass after we had found several way to pass slow vehicle up to then. I encountered a group of six Goldwings going rather slow down the mountain. It's pretty hard to pass six bike in one pass and I was remembering my last sheriff encounter. So I pushed the intercom button on the Sena and just told Brian that we were "Stuck Behind a Flock of Goldwing". We all stopped in Silverton for a break. It turned out that the Goldwing guys were nice guys they just didn't ride worth too much.

We ended up passing on Mesa Verde National Park, going down US 160 to Cortez. I'd been there before and wasn't that impressed unless you want to spend a day hiking up into Native American Cliff Dwellings. We didn't have time and I didn't have inclination. I wanted to get in to Cortez to look for dinner before nine that night when a restaurant might still be open, we could get a motel and sleep at a reasonable time.

There was one more small adventure. On that US 160 near to Cortez there was some sort of micro burst and the wind kicked up from maybe 25/30 MPH to about 65/70 MPH for a minute or two without warning. While an FJR is one of the most stable road bikes ever built going 80 MPH and suddenly encountering a change in cross wind from maybe 30 to 70 MPH is a harrowing experience. It's the only time in my experience that the wind grabbed my closed full face helmet shield and pulled it all the way up. It also took my bike from the left side of the lane into the right shoulder before I could get it back, I think it too Brian through the edge of the right shoulder. When we got to Cortez we were both a little pale, especially Brian.

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Going back to where I left off. We ended up staying in the Super 8 in Cortez. It was over priced and under valued, but that's life. In the morning our plan was to take off on US 491 to Monticello, UT and then on US 191 to Blanding where we could catch UT 95 and go up through the Lake Powell area and on through Hanksville into Capitol Reef National Park, we were going to take UT 24 into Teasdale where we would catch UT 12 and ride the Devil's Staircase down to Bryce Canyon and Red Canyon in Utah. This is some of the most magnificent mountain roads, turns, inclines and scenery in the world IMHO.

Off we went early in the morning to get through the boring stretch of US highways till we would get to Blanding. The boring part ended up being less boring because that morning the winds were kicking up around 40 to 50 MPH along the road and keeping the bikes on the road became a challenge. Brian and I stopped for gas and coffee in Monticello, UT and a little to let our frayed nerves calm. As we pulled into the station we saw these two sport touring bikes and pulled next to them. While we had our drinks we looked at the bikes and met the riders. It turned out that they were two retired guys, ex-military, from Colorado. Real nice guys who knew a lot about the area and were on a few days of excursion. It also turned out that their bikes were a FJR (A) and a C-14. The navigator partner of the two was telling me that their plan was to take UT 95 to UT 276 where there was a ferry across Lake Powell and that we'd catch 95 again after 276 only having better roads, turns and the ferry. After using our I Phones and investigating with calls we discovered that the ferry wouldn't start running for another three days and we decided to go back to our plan while they were going to still do some kicking around on 276. If the FJR partners on this board, which I think he maybe visits and sees this, it'd be great to say hello.

On other side note. When we got to Blanding I had to tell Brian how I'd been thrown out of Blanding a couple years earlier and that I need to pass through buying gas and staying out of trouble.

Two years earlier on my Burgman 650 I'd gotten to Blanding on Memorial Day weekend at 1:00 AM and wanted to rent a room for the night. The next town, Hanksville, on UT 95 is a 150 miles with no civilization between and it was one in the morning. I went into the Super 8 and asked for a room. The lady clerk told me that they were sold out and that every motel in Blanding was sold out. I told her that I'd give her a hundred cash if I could sleep on the lobby sofa till the sun came up and she called the police telling me "That if I wasn't out of town before they got there I could spend the night in jail". Discretion being the better part of valor, I got on my bike and headed to Hanksville. By the time I got through the mountains at night to Hanksville it was about four AM and I was frozen. I stopped at the all night gas station there with my fuel warning on for the last twenty miles as the Burgman has three gallons with a .8 gallon reserve. I bought gas and drank coffee with the all night clerk for an hour and headed to UT 12 on UT 24. At the intersection there was a latte shop open for the morning where I bought a Latte and sat in the corner napping for a few hours. The ladies that ran it let me sleep undisturbed and I left them a ten dollar tip.

Anyway back to the present. We made it to Blanding and the wind had died down to a little more reasonable. We filled with gas for that lonely 150 miles on UT 95 and headed out. During the day time UT 95 is incredibly beautiful and Brian was astounded by the "Utah Rocks 95 also has any number of grades with turns that make for some great riding. After Hanksville we rode UT 24 through a good share of Capitol Reef park. By the time we got to the beginning of UT 12 it was about 4:30 but it was going to stay light till 9:00 or so so we figured we still had time for the Devil's Staircase and filled with gas again and headed on.

It doesn't matter how many times you ride the Devil's Staircase it's still just one of the most beautiful best bike roads ever. We had a great time on 12 and came close to hitting cows once or twice, but still great. We stopped at the only real stop about half through in Escalante and bought gas and a soft drink. At that point I was assessing the remaining daylight and figured that by the time we got to the end it would be pitch black. I didn't want to do US 89 to UT 14 to Cedar City in the dark and thought that I could snag a motel where Bryce Canyon and Red Canyon come together. I found some Americ's Best that wanted $90.00 but if you have that location and the room is clean you can get $90.00. We got there as the light was about out and stayed the night.

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That night we planed the next day and Brian wanted t tour Bryce Canyon Park and Zion Park the next day. It wasn't perhaps my favorite thought because they are both crowded and we had to ride slow. But Zion especially is one of the most beautiful places god ever made. I'll get on with that when I can.

 
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