Advice on a lowering kit

[Joel Rappoport]

Anyone running the Meissner lowering kit from Wild Hair accessories? I need to get a more solid setting on the ground at a halt. I'm thinking of the -18 mm. kit which should work out well in terms of height. Will this turn the handling to crap or have any other negative impact on the bike?

I've found the forum info on changing the seat but would rather lower the bike.

 

[user 6393]

MEM has hers lowered. I am sure she'll be along shortly...

 

[MEM]

OK, I'm here.

Look:

here

and

here for starters .

For searching .... BOOKMARK THIS SITE!

THIS ONE may prove extremely handy, too. Together, they may save your butt from being dogpiled someday.

BTW, I've had my bike lowered. You'll scrape pegs and don't forget to have your sidestand adjusted. That's it from me!!

 

[n1acguy]

I don't think 18mm would make enough of a difference.

I used the Kouba links and raised the front forks as high as they would go (about 1/2"), so the rear is lowered 7/8" and the front is 1/2" lower.

I just got a Russel seat which makes the reach to the ground a little more difficult due to the wider seat, so I may raise the fork tubes a little more. When I first raised the tubes, the limiting factor was interference with the handle bars. With the Helibar setup, this shouldn't be an issue.

 

[n1acguy]

For searching .... BOOKMARK THIS SITE!

Thanks for that!

 

[chrisflock]

I have kouba links, which were significantly less than any others I found. Lowered the rear 7/8 and the lowered the front in the clamps to match.

Lowering the rear without lowering the front (or the other way round) will change the steering geometry significantly, either making the bike 'less stable' at speed (more sensitive) or making the bike more stable, and thus harder to steer. But lowering the bike evenly is basically just going to lower the center of gravity (for whatever effect that will have) and by virtue of lowering the pegs, will make them scrape at a shallower angle.

Realistically, though, putting a passenger on the bike probably lowers it more (and probably unevenly front to rear) while making much more significant changes in center of gravity...

 

[blk_hole 2]

I lowered mine 7/8"...glad i did. cut the seat...Like the feel,not the ride after two hours.

The reach to the ground is a much more secure feeling ! that said the reach to the pegs becomes less(leg room)pegs will touch sooner(clearance).

I lowered the front,pegs hit way too soon...front is back UP! The slower steering it causes is a feeling I am comfrortable

with,very stable...It does not slow me down! The worst thing about the link change is the mechanical advantage

created by the longer link! you will feel a softer action to the shock than stock.You can feel it just bouncing on the seat.

Your shock will wear-out faster.When it comes time for mine to be replaced I will use one that is height adjustable.

Kevin

 

[Karmak]

I originally used the Meissner's, but then the Koubas to get it lower. I also lowered the front. Since I installed Muzzy Headers, I went back to the Meissners and raised the front due to scraping the Muzzys (before hitting the pegs). I've found a way to pull the Muzzys up and in more now, so we'll see this Spring. If they don't scrape, I may try lowering again. I am a fairly aggressive rider, if you are not, you may not have an issue. I have a short inseam, so the Koubas felt great and I'd like to go back to them if possible. If I didn't have the Muzzys I'd harden the compression damping and go with the Kouba Links. Remember, adjusting preload won't make a difference-you have to be able to adjust the compression damping to make a difference (I have a Wilbers shock).

 

[Duezzer]

I lowered mine - didn't like how it handled - tried every adjustment I could to get it back on the rails

Went back to regular hieght and haven't looked back.