AE jerking me around

[jaster]

Looking to see if any of you AE owners have experienced this problem, and if so, what it took to fix it:

I have an 06' AE that the clutch started engaging in and out rapidly whenever I try to take off in first gear only when it was cold. Only slightly at first but it has continued to get worse. It now does this all the time. The only way to assure a smooth launch now is to hold the rear brake until you feel the clutch pulling in completely. I am also seeing an error code, SH__26. When this code pops up the bike won't start. The only way to get around this is to hit the starter button before this code appears. I've also seen, just once, error code SH__44.

Any one else seen this problem? Would appreciate some insight on what this is.

 

[mcatrophy]

Looking to see if any of you AE owners have experienced this problem, and if so, what it took to fix it:

I have an 06' AE that the clutch started engaging in and out rapidly whenever I try to take off in first gear only when it was cold. Only slightly at first but it has continued to get worse. It now does this all the time. The only way to assure a smooth launch now is to hold the rear brake until you feel the clutch pulling in completely. I am also seeing an error code, SH__26. When this code pops up the bike won't start. The only way to get around this is to hit the starter button before this code appears. I've also seen, just once, error code SH__44.

Any one else seen this problem? Would appreciate some insight on what this is.

Sounds like air in the clutch hydraulics, or possibly the actuator mount bracket, this was the subject of a re-call, has yours been done?

When was the clutch hydraulic fluid last changed? If not in the last two or three years I'd suggest fluid renewal and in any case thorough bleeding.

Sh__26: Abnormal clutch movement is detected during check when main switch is turned to "ON". 1. Clutch fluid. Check for clutch fluid leakage. Check the clutch fluid level.

2. Air in hydraulic clutch system. Check the clutch stroke. Bleed the hydraulic clutch.

Sh__44: Clutch actuator sensor signal is abnormal.

1. Defective clutch actuator sensor. Replace clutch actuator.

 

[jaster]

Thanks for the advise mcatrophy. I have checked the fluid level and it is good. But it has never been changed and it does have 46,000 miles on it. I will try that next. Thanks again.

 

[revshred]

I just got back from a trip to Canada and mine started doing this a few days before I made it home. I was getting the SH 26 error, called my dealer here and they are going to bleed the clutch and see if that works. They can't get me in until the 1st of August, so we shall see what happens.

Before this I would get the very mild lurching when it was cold but as others have said it went away very quick after a couple stops and warming up the oil was complete.

I have a 2006 AE as well.

 

[yamafitter]

At the next Owosso Tech Day I plan on doing a valve check and a clutch flush and if time permits an ABS function check. I have a 06 AE and on occasion when the bike gets very hot the idle will be slightly erratic and I get a Shift Error Code 48 (improper idle speed). I suspect the latter condition is due to dirty throttle body butterflies and was planning on pulling at least the airbox to have a good look. I used to have a K&N filter but got rid of it before my trip out to NAFO this year and went back to OEM.

 

[FJRPittsburgh]

Looking to see if any of you AE owners have experienced this problem, and if so, what it took to fix it:

I have an 06' AE that the clutch started engaging in and out rapidly whenever I try to take off in first gear only when it was cold. Only slightly at first but it has continued to get worse. It now does this all the time. The only way to assure a smooth launch now is to hold the rear brake until you feel the clutch pulling in completely. I am also seeing an error code, SH__26. When this code pops up the bike won't start. The only way to get around this is to hit the starter button before this code appears. I've also seen, just once, error code SH__44.

Any one else seen this problem? Would appreciate some insight on what this is.

Jaster,

These are the exact same errors I got on my AE after a clutch soak. The answer for me was to do a clutch line bleed. Works fine now. You can see my clutch soak thread here: Click

Jeff

 

[revshred]

Well guys,here is my latest update on my SH 26 shift error.

When I took my AE in the first time they did not do the clutch bleed properly, even though I suggested to the service writer that I had seen on here that you had to take the rear wheel off,etc. to do so. So I brought it back in a few days later when the code came back up. By then I had bought a full service manual online( TechSpark studio on ebay, only $9.95 for the download!)and read the procedure myself, what a crazy process just to do a clutch bleed.

At this time they put their " A Tech" on the job and they did the bleed the proper way as far as I know. This worked for a while as I went on another trip in August to Colorado and the code popped up again. It is an intermittent problem still and the code came up again this last week just once, along with the extreme jerking when cold.

I brought the bike back in Friday and the "A Tech" called the Yamaha Rep from California while he was giving me a ride home. Now I am awaiting a call back to see if the Yamaha Rep can shed any light on this. I am quite disappointed that they cannot fix this properly, to say the least.

My 2006AE has only 29,000 miles on it and I expect to get many more.

If anyone else has found a permanent solution to this problem please let me know by responding to this post.

I am guessing that if the Yamaha Rep is no help they will have to do the full bleed procedure over again.....who knows.

The up side is that I have only been charged for 3 hours labor so far, and I know they spent a lot more time on it than that.

HELP?

 

[Sirby]

My 2006 AE is doing this now with 26000 miles on it. I will try the Mity-Vac bleed and see if that fixes it. Have you fixed yours yet?

-Sirby

 

[revshred]

My 2006 AE is doing this now with 26000 miles on it. I will try the Mity-Vac bleed and see if that fixes it. Have you fixed yours yet?

-Sirby

Well, not yet, they have been working on mine off and on since the beginning of August, they have done the whole bleed procedure (which requires removing the entire rear swingarm etc. check the service manual) more than once. They also brought up a regional Yamaha Tech expert to work on it as well, with no success.

As of this moment I am waiting for the module that holds the sensor that gives the SH_26 error code to come from Japan. I had a meeting with the owner of the Yamaha dealership here and their A-Tech who has been handling this problem, to replace the part with the labor is going to cost me in the neighborhood of $1800, and that's with a 10% discount. The good part is that they agreed that if this does not fix my problem I will not have to pay for the job. The A-Tech is 95% sure this will do it so they are kind of sticking their neck out on this one. I am not thrilled about paying that much but if it fixes my bike I'll be happy.

I have over 30k miles on mine now but it started right about the same time as yours, 26k.

The one thing I can tell you for sure is that the problem is temperature related, after a cold night in the garage the error code will almost surely come up, if I roll the bike out into the sun and let it warm up, it goes away and I can ride without problems once it's warmed up.

Let me know what happens with yours....

 

[RiderX]

Omg, that is ludicrous. Because they didn't have the troubleshooting expertise they are going to charge you all that labor, while the regional tech rep and shop figured it out?? Aye! Did you sign off on an estimate. I'd call Yamaha customer service and write letters for sure.

Hope it gets fixed. Can you post for us what sensor part number they replaced for all of our reference?

Thanks!

 

[Bustanut joker]

Damnit! My manual shift has never once gave me this type of problem.. gotta be an anomaly of sorts I guess. :blink:

 

[Sirby]

My 2006 AE is doing this now with 26000 miles on it. I will try the Mity-Vac bleed and see if that fixes it. Have you fixed yours yet?

-Sirby

Well, not yet, they have been working on mine off and on since the beginning of August, they have done the whole bleed procedure (which requires removing the entire rear swingarm etc. check the service manual) more than once. They also brought up a regional Yamaha Tech expert to work on it as well, with no success.

As of this moment I am waiting for the module that holds the sensor that gives the SH_26 error code to come from Japan. I had a meeting with the owner of the Yamaha dealership here and their A-Tech who has been handling this problem, to replace the part with the labor is going to cost me in the neighborhood of $1800, and that's with a 10% discount. The good part is that they agreed that if this does not fix my problem I will not have to pay for the job. The A-Tech is 95% sure this will do it so they are kind of sticking their neck out on this one. I am not thrilled about paying that much but if it fixes my bike I'll be happy.

I have over 30k miles on mine now but it started right about the same time as yours, 26k.

The one thing I can tell you for sure is that the problem is temperature related, after a cold night in the garage the error code will almost surely come up, if I roll the bike out into the sun and let it warm up, it goes away and I can ride without problems once it's warmed up.

Let me know what happens with yours....

Well, I called my dealer service dept. to confirm that my bike has had the shift actuator recall update, and he assured me that my bike had that before I bought it new from them. We discussed the studdering on cold start and told me that that was due to cold oil effecting the clutch actuation. I told him it only started doing this recently. He asked if I have changed the viscosity or type of oil I had been using. I said yes, I had switched to 20W50 Yamalube last spring anticipating some hot summer riding. He said that would cause the studdering to occur and that before I do anything else, to change the oil back to 10W40 and see how that works. In western Washington I shouldnt need 20W50 oil. OK, I'll try that and report back to you.

-Sirby

 

[revshred]

My 2006 AE is doing this now with 26000 miles on it. I will try the Mity-Vac bleed and see if that fixes it. Have you fixed yours yet?

-Sirby

Well, not yet, they have been working on mine off and on since the beginning of August, they have done the whole bleed procedure (which requires removing the entire rear swingarm etc. check the service manual) more than once. They also brought up a regional Yamaha Tech expert to work on it as well, with no success.

As of this moment I am waiting for the module that holds the sensor that gives the SH_26 error code to come from Japan. I had a meeting with the owner of the Yamaha dealership here and their A-Tech who has been handling this problem, to replace the part with the labor is going to cost me in the neighborhood of $1800, and that's with a 10% discount. The good part is that they agreed that if this does not fix my problem I will not have to pay for the job. The A-Tech is 95% sure this will do it so they are kind of sticking their neck out on this one. I am not thrilled about paying that much but if it fixes my bike I'll be happy.

I have over 30k miles on mine now but it started right about the same time as yours, 26k.

The one thing I can tell you for sure is that the problem is temperature related, after a cold night in the garage the error code will almost surely come up, if I roll the bike out into the sun and let it warm up, it goes away and I can ride without problems once it's warmed up.

Let me know what happens with yours....

Well, I called my dealer service dept. to confirm that my bike has had the shift actuator recall update, and he assured me that my bike had that before I bought it new from them. We discussed the studdering on cold start and told me that that was due to cold oil effecting the clutch actuation. I told him it only started doing this recently. He asked if I have changed the viscosity or type of oil I had been using. I said yes, I had switched to 20W50 Yamalube last spring anticipating some hot summer riding. He said that would cause the studdering to occur and that before I do anything else, to change the oil back to 10W40 and see how that works. In western Washington I shouldnt need 20W50 oil. OK, I'll try that and report back to you.

-Sirby

Well, the Yamaha dealer has been really good about this actually, they probably have worked on the bike close to 30 hours including the Yamaha Rep coming up and working on it and I have only been charged for the original 3 hours of labor that the clutch bleed requires.

As far as the new repair, the part itself is over $1400, 4 hours labor to put it in.

They also tried changing my oil over to synthetic to see if that would work also, no luck. And like I said earlier, if this $1800 fix does not work they have agreed that I won't have to pay for it. Get that promise from a Harley dealership.

I personally am wondering though that if it does fix the problem if there should be a recall on that whole part, since it seems to be failing on other bikes as well.

 

[Auron]

My AE was fine until I started messing with it. It's never been the same since I put my G2 on. As far as I can tell a couple of things effect the jerking but I know very little about the subject so please, anyone feel free to comment.

Idle Speed- If not right at 1050 it seems to be off. I'm wondering if this is why they jerk when cold, before the idle has completely come down from warm up. I'm pretty sure going above 1050 makes it worse but how about down to 1000?

Throttle Slack- I've had interference ever since I unwound my throttle spring. This isn't helping things either.

Also noticed my throttle rocker, if too far up won't let the throttle close completely if I'm not paying attention, this obviously effect the clutch when coming to a stop.

Any other factors?

 

[revshred]

My AE was fine until I started messing with it. It's never been the same since I put my G2 on. As far as I can tell a couple of things effect the jerking but I know very little about the subject so please, anyone feel free to comment.

Idle Speed- If not right at 1050 it seems to be off. I'm wondering if this is why they jerk when cold, before the idle has completely come down from warm up. I'm pretty sure going above 1050 makes it worse but how about down to 1000?

Throttle Slack- I've had interference ever since I unwound my throttle spring. This isn't helping things either.

Also noticed my throttle rocker, if too far up won't let the throttle close completely if I'm not paying attention, this obviously effect the clutch when coming to a stop.

Any other factors?

My bike is currently in the shop and they are replacing the clutch actuator, approx $1800, went in Wednesday and was supposed to be worked on on Friday, have not heard from the dealer yet, service closed on sun/mon so I guess I will find out what is going on Tuesday.

Auron, how many miles on your AE when you started having trouble?

 

[Auron]

My AE was fine until I started messing with it. It's never been the same since I put my G2 on. As far as I can tell a couple of things effect the jerking but I know very little about the subject so please, anyone feel free to comment.

Idle Speed- If not right at 1050 it seems to be off. I'm wondering if this is why they jerk when cold, before the idle has completely come down from warm up. I'm pretty sure going above 1050 makes it worse but how about down to 1000?

Throttle Slack- I've had interference ever since I unwound my throttle spring. This isn't helping things either.

Also noticed my throttle rocker, if too far up won't let the throttle close completely if I'm not paying attention, this obviously effect the clutch when coming to a stop.

Any other factors?

My bike is currently in the shop and they are replacing the clutch actuator, approx $1800, went in Wednesday and was supposed to be worked on on Friday, have not heard from the dealer yet, service closed on sun/mon so I guess I will find out what is going on Tuesday.

Auron, how many miles on your AE when you started having trouble?

Phuwaa, like 400. Like I said, it was fine until I got my paws on the thing, I've got it all figured out though. When I did the TBS, plate sync, G2 install, BMW grip install and throttle unwind things got all screwed up somewhere. I cleaned up the interference problem, greased the throttle tube (ooops) brought the idle back down to 1050 from 1150, adjusted the throttle cable at both ends, and moved my crampbuster out of the way a little bit and it seems fine now. Had the ride of the year today with the bike pretty much sorted out, the major stuff anyway.

BWT, it still jerks a little bit when cold but I think most of them do that, especially in the colder months.

 

[mcatrophy]

...

BWT, it still jerks a little bit when cold but I think most of them do that, especially in the colder months.

My '10 had been doing this from new. A soak has stopped it completely; quoting from my report:

...

The result after two days and a few local trips: although the bike was never bad, it would judder a little on the first cold move from rest of the day, that didn't happen on the one cold start today. Also, gear-changes are generally smoother with less need to try to match revs during the change.

It was well worth doing the soak.

...

This was done early September. After 6 weeks of almost daily use, it's not done a single "cold" judder, including ambient temperatures down to 6C (43F).

FWIW, my original '06 "Soak How To", posted here.

 

[revshred]

well guys, glad you got yours worked out. If the clutch actuator repair does not do the job, I will suggest the clutch soak to the Yamaha dealer and see what he thinks. Like I said before, if this repair does not fix the error code problem, I will not have to pay for it....I will let you know what happens when I get the bike back...

 

[Sirby]

Well I think I have my AE fixed now. I did a fluid flush on the clutch and it takes off fine now.

First I changed to 10w40 dino oil from yammy. That made no difference at all.

Then after reading on the forum a bit more I decided to flush the DOT 4 fluid out of the clutch system to see what that does. I simply hooked up my new Motion-Pro Mini-bleeder to the nipple on the clutch slave cylinder after loosening the left fairing to gain better access. I cracked the bleeder nipple open and turned the ignition on and off about 50 times whilst adding new fluid to the reservoir. I did this until the fluid came out clean and clear. The old fluid was full of bubbles and quite dirty. By now the motor is cooled off from my morning jerking test ride, so I fire it up and launched without even a hint of a studder or jerk. This with one bar or less showing on the temp guage. I could tell that when the clear fluid began to appear at the bleed nipple, the sound of the clutch engaging changed to a more "solid" sound.

I do not understand why Yamaha recommends removing the swingarm or whatever to get to the other side of the motor for bleeding the clutch. Is there something I am missing? Others on the forum have suggested removing the actuator with the three bolts on the left side where the bleed nipple is and fluid hose connects, and then manually pumping the rod to pump out the old fluid and air. I found the solenoid will do it easy enough just cycling it with the ignition key.

-Sirby