Ahhhhhhh Feels So Good!

[BwanaDik]

And, as usual, Dan at Cycle Shack did an outstanding job. Runs great. :yahoo:

As a benchmark from other threads, had the valve check but no adjustment required. No info on how many were "tight" or not.

No CCT issues, all good so far. Based on other threads (Howie?) I'll probably have the tensioner changed out at 50,000 anyway.

 

[FJRBluesman]

From your title I figured they pulled your shaft and lubed it? :dribble:

 

[majicmaker]

BwanaDik,

Got mine done just before I took off for the SFO at West Palm Beach Greater Yamaha.

Mine was fine also, but, got tweaked to "0" and it rode like it did when I rode it home at purchase.

This bike still puts a BIG SMILE on my face when I walk into the garage and just look at it!!

 

[escapefjrtist]

Good to hear BD. Just finished my initial valve check at 26,200 and all are good as well. Between changing plugs, removing the PAIR, syncing the bodies and flushing / changing all the various fluids, I've got a new scoot again!

--G

 

[jjsC6]

This brings up the old question - what did they charge you. I've been quoted around $600 just to have the valves checked.

 

[smokeFJR06]

This brings up the old question - what did they charge you. I've been quoted around $600 just to have the valves checked.

I had my 25K done back in march and it was $650 out the door. OUCH! Not sure I'll do that again.

 

[GPRIDER]

Last time I had mine done it was around $380 to check them. If they need adustment it will at least double. Probably more. And the shop rates have increased since them. They have to take a lot more apart to adjust the valves with the shims.

GP

 

[escapefjrtist]

This brings up the old question - what did they charge you. I've been quoted around $600 just to have the valves checked.

Bit the bullet (with convincing from MCRider007) and did it myself. Total of about $40 with coolant, plugs and two new o-rings. Total time with some messing around, six hours or so and I removed a lot more plastic than necessary. The going rate for a dealer check is approximately $400 locally.

--G

 

[BwanaDik]

This brings up the old question - what did they charge you. I've been quoted around $600 just to have the valves checked.

I had my 25K done back in march and it was $650 out the door. OUCH! Not sure I'll do that again.

Check to see what was included in the service. They appear to have changed the plugs, diff oil, engine oil filter, engine oil, coolant (have to drain it to get the valve cover off. Changing it OK by me), and some mics gaskets and o-rings. Plus a TBS. OTD cost, incl tax, was $511.24.

Not too bad but not cheap. Did you have to have any shims installed? This will raise the cost significantly.

On a down note, the ol' girl appears to be leaking oil now. I rode to Carthage from Conroe and back yesterday (nice ride, BTW) and I noticed some oil under the bike at lunch (Had a Hardley parked there previously?). By the time I got home, there was visible oil, but not much, on the lower right fairing and spray on the right saddle bag. Dropped it back off today to have them check it out.

Which reminds me of another thing. The IBA guys always warn against adding farkles before a long ride. This should apply to major, or maybe even minor, maintenance done to the bike. You might want to do a couple of hundred miles to be sure everything is right before a long ride right after maintenance.

 

[BwanaDik]

Final story with a happy ending. Dropped the scoot off at lunch. Picked it back up that evening, all's well. Turns out the o-ring/gasket that seals the valve cover is installed with a leap of faith. You can't see the half moons at the end of the cams when you install it. They apparently drag across the cam chain on the way in but you can't see if they've come adrift. Have you guys that do your own valve adjustments ever come up with a sure fire way to install the gasket and get the half moons in place?

 

[RED]

Next week, Im having the ignition switch replaced on mine. (recall) While they have the tank off, I having the TB's sync'd. My bike has 22k on it and Ive never had the TB's sync'd. :blink:

 

[Bungie]

Mine's in today for a TB sync (last done 20K ago) and a new set of PR2 buns installed. Gonna do the coolant and cable lube tomorrow. Then the bike'll be ready for the run out to CFR (2 weeks... WOOT!)

 

[Crash Cash]

Have you guys that do your own valve adjustments ever come up with a sure fire way to install the gasket and get the half moons in place?

Nope, I've dealt with the problem on a bunch of inline-4s and it boils down to a lot of care and swearing. You need to eyeball things before pushing the valve cover down for the final time. Some bikes are even worse than the FJR with the frame blocking the view. I usually try to put the gasket on the engine before putting the top cover on, but that's still not a surefire fix. Oh yeah, and some bikes have the halfmoons as separate pieces. This is good when they stay where they belong and bad when they mysteriously vanish.

Man, a full day of removing stuff before even getting to the top of the motor. I almost forgot to drain the coolant before popping the coolant pipe off. Oops.

My SV has spoiled me: "Remove seat. Unplug sparkplug boot. Remove valve cover."

 

[Fred W]

Final story with a happy ending. Dropped the scoot off at lunch. Picked it back up that evening, all's well. Turns out the o-ring/gasket that seals the valve cover is installed with a leap of faith. You can't see the half moons at the end of the cams when you install it. They apparently drag across the cam chain on the way in but you can't see if they've come adrift. Have you guys that do your own valve adjustments ever come up with a sure fire way to install the gasket and get the half moons in place?

When I read your leak location I was guessing that this was it.

You can actually just barely see the ends of the half moons if you use a lot of light and an inspection mirror. I put my valve cover on, then lifted it up a smidge and peeked under with a flashlight to make sure everything was in the right places. I also did not remove the gasket from the cover. Leaving it stuck in place eliminates half the problem.