UselessPickles
Making Grand Canyon replicas from air boxes...
Only way to really know would be to get a before and after dyno chart with an AFR reading from the exhaust.Am I way off base here?
If the AFR curve is the same before and after, then the ECU has compensated for the change in airflow. Any loss off torque in a given RPM range would correspond to lower airflow and increased torque would correspond to increased airflow.
If the AFR curve is different before and after, then the ECU has not fully compensated (it may have compensated some, but how much is unknown). In that case, loss and gains in torque could be caused by a combination of change in airflow and change in AFR, so it would be more difficult to determine where you got increases and decreases in airflow.
I'd agree that your decision to go back to stock is smart because you are unsure of the results of the mod. Your choices are:
- Blindly do the mod because other people have done it and say that it "feels" more powerful.
- Invest some time/money into measuring the results on a dyno in comparison with stock and share the results on the forum so we can all know with complete certainty whether the mod is a good idea. If you already have a way to block off the extra hole you cut, then it should be pretty easy to get back-to-back before/after dyno runs. I'd imagine you could get the dyno pulls done for about $50-$75.
- Return the bike to stock to put your mind at ease and hope that someone else does #2 sometime so you can choose to re-do the mod if it has benefits.
The only air box mod that has before/after results to back it up so far is the full blown air box mod of insanity that Wicked Webby and I have done (with accompanying fueling adjustments).