Air cut valve assy power - could I use that to power GPS/

[Niehart]

I have removed the air induction system and replaced with pair plates.

I would like to use that to run other things, GPS, Radar Detector, phone charger. Things that do not pull much power. Has anyone used the power from that plug, used to run the valve assembly, too power other things?

 

[FJRay]

Good question. Try it and let us know how it works. If the smoke comes out we promise not to laugh.

 

[rbentnail]

I have removed the air induction system and replaced with pair plates.
I would like to use that to run other things, GPS, Radar Detector, phone charger. Things that do not pull much power. Has anyone used the power from that plug, used to run the valve assembly, too power other things?

Not that I've heard of but go for it. Check what size fuse it's connected to, multiply by 2/3 to get a good idea of permissible "normal" amp draw. Or multiply the fuse size by 8, that's 2/3 fuse rating times 12 volts, for the nominal wattage rating. I think yer gonna find you have very little power available to work with there. Also- make sure the same fuse provides power to nothing else before attempting to use it. If it does, please abandon this thought quickly.

 

[Queensland Ken]

Quote the bible:

Air cut-off valve
The air cut-off valve is controlled by the signals from the ECU in accordance with the combustion conditions.Ordinarily, the air cut-off valve opens to allow the air to flow during idle and closes to cut-off the flow when the vehicle is being driven.

However, if the coolant temperature is below the specified value, the air cut-off valve remains open and allows the air to flow into the exhaust pipe until the temperature becomes higher than the specified value.

So I don't think accessories would work too well, only at low engine temperatures.

 

[ahchiu]

I have to agree with Queensland Ken I don't think it will work since the PAIR system open on decel of the throttle it may not have constant power all the time, you may want to hook up a small light to the power supply and go ride and see if it goes out..

 

[escapefjrtist]

Pretty sure you're SOL Dave. Power would be intermittent to that connector whenever the ECU determines its time to power the solenoid. Interesting experiment to try...

--G

 

[Panman]

Pretty sure you're SOL Dave. Power would be intermittent to that connector whenever the ECU determines its time to power the solenoid. Interesting experiment to try...
--G

Didn't we already tell him that?

 

[escapefjrtist]

Pretty sure you're SOL Dave. Power would be intermittent to that connector whenever the ECU determines its time to power the solenoid. Interesting experiment to try...
--G

Didn't we already tell him that?

...since when did he ever listen to us!

--G

 

[900gc]

Pretty sure you're SOL Dave. Power would be intermittent to that connector whenever the ECU determines its time to power the solenoid. Interesting experiment to try...
--G

Actually, I use that plug as a tap wire to power a relay and it works just fine for that. It is switched power ( key on ) and is constant, not intermittent. I don't know how the solenoid cycles, but it is not by cutting power to it.

That being said, I would no way use it to directly wire accessories though. Haven't checked but prolly only a 2-3 amp circuit.

 

[ionbeam]

Actually, I use that plug as a tap wire to power a relay and it works just fine for that. It is switched power ( key on ) and is constant, not intermittent. I don't know how the solenoid cycles, but it is not by cutting power to it.

Ding, ding, ding. The Air Injection Solenoid (AIS) gets power directly from the Ignition Fuse on a Red/White wire. The AIS is turned on when the ECU grounds the Brown/Red wire. It is the Brown/Red wire that is switched, the Red/White wire is +12 when the ignition is powered.

In electrical power switching it is the norm for power to be supplied directly from the power source and the item turned on by grounding it. In electronic power control like done by the ECU it is easier/safer/preferred to ground than 'push' power through the circuit.

 

[Niehart]

So I could use the Red/White and another ground/not the Brown/Red, it should power my radar detector easily.

 

[ionbeam]

So I could use the Red/White and another ground/not the Brown/Red, it should power my radar detector easily.

You could use the R/W power wire -- but the 10A Ignition Fuse circuit is critical to the bike running. Why go after this instead of a power block or terminal block? If you do use the Ignition circuit you should fuse the accessories individually and use a fuse not bigger than 5A and preferably 3A if the accessory can run with a fuse that small. The ignition circuit is busy and I would expect it to already be supplying ~4-5 amps and you would be cutting into the remaining 'head room'.

 

[Niehart]

Thanks IB. On to another project.

 

[900gc]

So I could use the Red/White and another ground/not the Brown/Red, it should power my radar detector easily.

You could use the R/W power wire -- but the 10A Ignition Fuse circuit is critical to the bike running. Why go after this instead of a power block or terminal block? If you do use the Ignition circuit you should fuse the accessories individually and use a fuse not bigger than 5A and preferably 3A if the accessory can run with a fuse that small. The ignition circuit is busy and I would expect it to already be supplying ~4-5 amps and you would be cutting into the remaining 'head room'.

Good advice. A better alternative if one wants to tap directly into the OEM wiring for relatively low powered stuff would be the factory heated grip plugs located below the glove box ( if not utilized for that already) I use that to power my Bikevis Bullets. A 7.5-10 amp fused circuit I suspect since heated grips draw about 40 watts.

Went through Sandown on the way up to Loudon for LRRS opening day end of Apr. Purposely took back roads to enjoy the ride. I'm in 'Glosta' so only about an hour from ya.

 

[Bounce]

Best to simply run your own harness and not chop up the OEM harness. Over time, the risk to the OEM harness via corrosion is less if you run a power bar on its own lines.

 

[Niehart]

On my '06' FJR, I had a fuse box placed in the tail section. That was a great place for the fuse box especially with upright, folding mount that Panman made for me but ... I didn't like running all the wires back to the box and then froward to the heated grips, driving lights, GPS, radar detector, heated gear plug, etc. It just seemed like I was asking for trouble.

Now I have:

1) Factory headed grips so that power source is used.

2) Driving lights and heated gear straight to the battery.

3) GPS and radar detector wired into the cigarette lighter wiring.

Just thought that it would have been cleaner wiring[short wires from under the tank rather than wires into the fairing and over to the cigarette lighter wiring]. The GPS and the radar detector pull very little power and I have a OEM plug that would have plugged into the air valve wiring harness.

 

[ionbeam]

Even though I have a Gen I I'll chime in. I have two 2 row terminal strips attached to the front sub-frame, one for switched and the other for unswitched power. I did this to prevent having to make long power connections to the back of the bike. Then I promptly put my cruise control servo on the back of the bike, installed a PCII, and a power port for Pillion's heated gear and ended up running a lot of wires to the back of the bike. But, it does leave my high power items like heated grips and driving lights with a short power run.