And yet another CCS100 install

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Jack D

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At 52000 miles it was time for a valve check on my 2009 so I did that (no changes needed), new spark plugs, air cleaner, throttle body sync, checking and greasing all of the ground spiders and so on. I pulled all of the side plastic to see how everything was laid out as the FJR is new to me. I also decided to install a CCS 100 and see how I liked it. There were plenty of posts on the forum to guide me. The one part I did not like from other installs was connecting the beaded chain connector to the throttle arm. Most people used a screw and 3 nuts to make the connection. I used a 10-32 button head screw and a coupling nut. For those unfamiliar with a coupling nut they are about 1/2" long. I turned part of the body down to the correct diameter for the connector. Now I only had one nut to start onto the screw instead of 3. The button head screw is much less likely to catch on the throttle cable. The reserve vacuum chamber was made of 1 1/4 PVC pipe and was installed above the swing arm on the right side where some others have installed the actuator. My actuator was installed under the seat. I would have preferred to put it over the engine in front of the coolant pipe but I wanted to make sure that everything functioned first. At the next valve adjustment I will move it and shorten the cable. The CCS 100 works better than I anticipated. It maintains speed within + or - 1 mph uphill or downhill and is not erratic when activating or deactivating. I am quite pleased with my less than $200 investment.

 
Please post pix of the coupling nut thingieAmahJig?

I had a helluva time getting the beads not to interfere with throttle opening..

..and Congrats!

 
I used a brass button head screw with NO nut. I tapped the tang on the throttle and screwed the little screw into it with some lock tight and a small lock washer. Just another way to skin the cat...

 
I second dcarver's wish for pics. Mine used a button screw and the aforementioned 3 nuts, but I found the button headed screw just rubbed on the throttle cable and I had to file a flat at one point on its head. Probably the position of the hole drilled in the tab would affect that.

(Click on image for larger view)

Final bead-chain connection . . . . Filed button-headed screw . . . .Hole position in tang



As an aside, when looking at my pics, I notice that the last one shows that the original throttle cable is rubbing on the side of the cam guide. I might have a look at that to make sure nothing's out of alignment.

 
I just used a small cotter pin looped around the chain between two beads. Drilled a small hole in the throttle arm just big enough to accept the cotter pin and then bent the two tines against/around the throttle arm securing it.

It's worked well for 9+ years. I inspect it occasionally. Doesn't appear to be wearing very much.

It's simple and it works flawlessly.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I just used a small cotter pin looped around the chain between two beads. Drilled a small hole in the throttle arm just big enough to accept the cotter pin and then bent the two tines against/around the throttle arm securing it...
Ditto. Also trouble free for 90k miles.

 
I will try posting a picture of the coupling nut that is located in a shared directory on my google drive. When I have done this before sometimes the picture shows up and sometimes it does not. I will also post the URL to the picture in case it does not show up in this post.

Forget the picture, I received the infamous "You are not allowed to use that image extension on this community." error.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byv8vUyrQfuodUR4OEk1eGh6c2s/edit?usp=sharing/IMG_5449.JPG

 
"Borrowed" the picture, put it where anyone can get at it ...

frontpinch_brwd.jpg
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Good idea, a better bearing surface for the coupler than the threads of the screw.

 

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