another cruise install question

[reaction57]

Well I am finally at the end of my audiovox cruise control install! It has been a major P.I.T.A for me! I have almost given up numerous times! My question is on how to set the ball and chain slack. There is not a lot of talk of how to do this part only if its not right it will cause problems! So is it no slack with trottle fully closed or open? I messed up on drilling the tang, being alittle off center to the top. I'm worried it might wear thru over time!

Completely unrelated. Has anyone ran the audiovox cruise with the Mccruise cable interface?

Thanks for any and all help. This forum rocks!

 

[reaction57]

Sorry for multiple posts! Using my cell phone so not sure what happened!

 

[ionbeam]

(Adjust any excess free play in the throttle as described in the FSM if necessary.) Engine off, with the throttle grip in the idle position, adjust the AVCC ball chain until there is as little slack as possible but still allows the throttle tab to return and set on the throttle stop when the grip is turned and then released.

Never tried anything MCCruise.

 

[garyahouse]

Yeah, the new forum can be a pain when it comes to accidentally making duplicate posts. Did it myself just this morning. Anyway, what you're describing is exactly why I decided to sell my AVCC last week. Hope the new owner has more patience than I do. For now, my throttle lock works pretty well, I'm good.

Gary

darksider #44

 

[Fred W]

You want a minimal (but still small amount) of slack in the bead chain when the throttle is fully closed and the servo unit's cable has been pulled out fully.

The servo unit doesn't have a spring inside to move the cable back to "fully out" position. So, the only thing that will do that is the throttle spring tension or your fingers. With the power off you can pull the cable out of the servo fully and see what slack you really have.

If the slack is insufficient the AVCC will hold you idle speeds up too high (even when it's not being used). If the slack is excessive, I've heard that it will cause the AVCC some grief in trying to maintain speeds at higher speeds or heavier loads which makes sesne since it has no more pull left.

But it isn't really all that sensitive because, as I mentioned earlier, the cable will only get pulled out of the servo just as far as the throttle spring will pull it. So re-engagement should be relatively brief.

Still, the minimum needed slack at throttle closed is what you want. Happy troubleshooting.

(and the Prof just beat me again. That's what I get for being an overly verbose (and somewhat slow) typist.)

 

[ionbeam]

...The servo unit doesn't have a spring inside to move the cable back to "fully out" position...
(...hat's what I get for being an overly verbose...)

Umm, & usually I'm the slow verbose typer (if the word doesn't exist, make it up.)

 

[str8]

You want a minimal (but still small amount) of slack in the bead chain when the throttle is fully closed and the servo unit's cable has been pulled out fully.
The servo unit doesn't have a spring inside to move the cable back to "fully out" position. So, the only thing that will do that is the throttle spring tension or your fingers. With the power off you can pull the cable out of the servo fully and see what slack you really have.

If the slack is insufficient the AVCC will hold you idle speeds up too high (even when it's not being used). If the slack is excessive, I've heard that it will cause the AVCC some grief in trying to maintain speeds at higher speeds or heavier loads which makes sesne since it has no more pull left.

But it isn't really all that sensitive because, as I mentioned earlier, the cable will only get pulled out of the servo just as far as the throttle spring will pull it. So re-engagement should be relatively brief.

Still, the minimum needed slack at throttle closed is what you want. Happy troubleshooting.

(and the Prof just beat me again. That's what I get for being an overly verbose (and somewhat slow) typist.)

I too, am installing the audiovox as we speak.

I am sure I have read every thread about this all the way back to 2006. This place does rock as the op says.

Fred W, are you still getting suitable performance with using one TBS vac port and a single check valve?

 

[Spud]

I've got mine hooked up to just one vac port w/one valve, it's still flawless after about 30,000 miles of use. I would have never, ever been able to do this job w/o my brother in law, who owns a car customization shop and has done numerous car installs. It was an adventure even with his experience. But, when done right, it really is a super nice addition to the bike.

 

[wfooshee]

Excess slack will delay the cruise's engaging, and may prevent the it from engaging altogether. The cable moves slowly, it does not snatch to where the device thinks it should be. It pulls a little, then a little more, then a little more, regardless of resistance or lack of resistance. It doesn't know when it actually starts moving the throttle, so if there's too much slack, it takes longer to get the throttle engaged. If there's WAY too much slack, the cruise will disengage, giving up because it hasn't seen an engine response after a certain amount of time.

You want enough slack that the throttle closes to the idle tang when you let go of it, and no more than that.

 

[mcatrophy]

Well I am finally at the end of my audiovox cruise control install! It has been a major P.I.T.A for me! I have almost given up numerous times! My question is on how to set the ball and chain slack. There is not a lot of talk of how to do this part only if its not right it will cause problems! So is it no slack with trottle fully closed or open? I messed up on drilling the tang, being alittle off center to the top. I'm worried it might wear thru over time!Completely unrelated. Has anyone ran the audiovox cruise with the Mccruise cable interface?

Thanks for any and all help. This forum rocks!

If you use a screw through your hole and put a nut on tightly, then the tab for the chain, followed by a nut and a lock-nut, there will be no wear on your off-centre hole. My pic below should show how I did mine (picture taken with throttle partially open):

(click on image for larger view)



I had to be careful that the screw head didn't rub on the throttle cable, also that it is the tang that touches the stop, not your additional screw or nuts.

And to confirm what's been said above: with throttle closed, check normal throttle play, adjust if necessary; then adjust the chain slack for a minimum (but not tight).

(Picture taken from my CC install, posted here.)

 

[str8]

I've got mine hooked up to just one vac port w/one valve, it's still flawless after about 30,000 miles of use. I would have never, ever been able to do this job w/o my brother in law, who owns a car customization shop and has done numerous car installs. It was an adventure even with his experience. But, when done right, it really is a super nice addition to the bike.

Thanks Spud. Good to hear. Is what I'm planning.

 

[str8]

...The servo unit doesn't have a spring inside to move the cable back to "fully out" position...
(...hat's what I get for being an overly verbose...)

Umm, & usually I'm the slow verbose typer (if the word doesn't exist, make it up.)

My servo doesn't appear to have a spring cause you can slide the cable in and out and it stays put where you leave it.

 

[Fred W]

You want a minimal (but still small amount) of slack in the bead chain when the throttle is fully closed and the servo unit's cable has been pulled out fully.

The servo unit doesn't have a spring inside to move the cable back to "fully out" position. So, the only thing that will do that is the throttle spring tension or your fingers. With the power off you can pull the cable out of the servo fully and see what slack you really have.

If the slack is insufficient the AVCC will hold you idle speeds up too high (even when it's not being used). If the slack is excessive, I've heard that it will cause the AVCC some grief in trying to maintain speeds at higher speeds or heavier loads which makes sesne since it has no more pull left.

But it isn't really all that sensitive because, as I mentioned earlier, the cable will only get pulled out of the servo just as far as the throttle spring will pull it. So re-engagement should be relatively brief.

Still, the minimum needed slack at throttle closed is what you want. Happy troubleshooting.

(and the Prof just beat me again. That's what I get for being an overly verbose (and somewhat slow) typist.)

I too, am installing the audiovox as we speak.

I am sure I have read every thread about this all the way back to 2006. This place does rock as the op says.

Fred W, are you still getting suitable performance with using one TBS vac port and a single check valve?

Yes, absolutely. Never been a problem. Of course some folks say that I suck, so that may explain it all...

...The servo unit doesn't have a spring inside to move the cable back to "fully out" position...
(...hat's what I get for being an overly verbose...)

Umm, & usually I'm the slow verbose typer (if the word doesn't exist, make it up.)

My servo doesn't appear to have a spring cause you can slide the cable in and out and it stays put where you leave it.

The spring in the picture only drives the diaphragm, not the cable. The cable will remain extended through the engagement point and will not push out in the relaxed position.

Hence the need to pull the cable through when adjusting the slack. At least that is how mine works. No question.

 

[mcatrophy]

... My servo doesn't appear to have a spring cause you can slide the cable in and out and it stays put where you leave it.

They must have lost the spring since ionbeam's picture. I seem to remember (my memory's cr*p) just sliding the cable in and out without any spring action, now I remembered taking this picture as I unpacked my kit:

(click on image for larger view)



which shows the cable mid-travel, so no spring.

 

[ionbeam]

...My servo doesn't appear to have a spring cause you can slide the cable in and out and it stays put where you leave it.

Guess I was promoting a hoax. My picture was based on what I saw when I took my AVCC apart.

 

[reaction57]

Thanks guys! Also on the check valves. Does the arrow go toward the engine or away from? This sure has been an adventure and I've not even test rode it yet!

 

[rfulcher]

...The servo unit doesn't have a spring inside to move the cable back to "fully out" position...
(...hat's what I get for being an overly verbose...)

Umm, & usually I'm the slow verbose typer (if the word doesn't exist, make it up.)

Ionbeam is right about the spring. It moves the vacuum cup to the default closed position in the absence of negative pressure within the vacuum chamber (the off/closed) position. The cable slides back and forth inside of the servo cable attachment as the throttle moves in and out of the servo with throttle motion. I took apart a servo this weekend and saw the spring and parts as shown above.

 

[wfooshee]

Ionbeam is right about the spring. It moves the vacuum cup to the default closed position in the absence of negative pressure within the vacuum chamber (the off/closed) position. The cable slides back and forth inside of the servo cable attachment as the throttle moves in and out of the servo with throttle motion. I took apart a servo this weekend and saw the spring and parts as shown above.

The spring is there, but only to force the vacuum cup out. The cable isn't pushed out byt the spring, though. The cable is free to slide into the servo unit, or you couldn't move the throttle with the cruise disengaged, or grab a little extra gas when it is engaged. The cable comes out of the unit as the throttle closes, and part of that slack you're adjusting with the bead chain is the cable being all the way out against its limit inside the servo.

 

[mcatrophy]

...

The servo unit doesn't have a spring inside to move the cable back to "fully out" position...
(...hat's what I get for being an overly verbose...)

Umm, & usually I'm the slow verbose typer (if the word doesn't exist, make it up.)

...

Ionbeam is right about the spring. It moves the vacuum cup to the default closed position in the absence of negative pressure within the vacuum chamber (the off/closed) position. The cable slides back and forth inside of the servo cable attachment as the throttle moves in and out of the servo with throttle motion. I took apart a servo this weekend and saw the spring and parts as shown above.

Ah, so the spring is there but doesn't push the cable. That make sense.

So it's the wording in ionbeam's picture that is not quite correct:

"With no vacuum present, this spring forces the servo cable to fully extend, releasing the throttle"

ionbeam has posted his pictures of the Audiovox's guts several times, and they've been very informative, but I'm surprised no-one had noticed this anomaly before.

Perhaps it should read something like "... forces the diaphragm into its non-operating position, removing any tension on the cable."? You might say this is too pedantic, but when someone is trying to fault-find, it could easily lead up a blind alley

.