Another sync tool review

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wfooshee

O, Woe is me!!
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I started to put this in broodwich's thread here, but saw that the thread was linked on CarbTune's site, and decided that might be kinda rude, comparing a competitor's tool in a thread they linked to. So, new thread.

I just did my TBS today with the Motion Pro SyncPro. Mercury free, uncalibrated tool. It has one difference in that the four tubes are completely independent, they do not share a fluid pool at the bottom, which requires that before use you attach all four tubes through a supplied manifold to a single cylinder and adjust them to match each other. A bit of an extra step, but it also means that the tool can be used on twins and threes without having to plug the extra lines.

There's no telling what the actual vacuum is, you just make them all match after initially calibrating them and then hooking up all four cylinders. Comparitive only.

My tool came with a little bit too much fluid in #2, I think. Here's the start of calibration, all four tubes hooked to one cylinder, and a picture of the manifold adapter that comes with it.

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After turning the screws at the base of each tube you get all four tubes even, like so, and the unit is "calibrated" to your vacuum source, i.e. the bike's vacuum is in the range of the tool.

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Because #2 was so high at its lowest adjustment, one other tube actually bottomed out just as it matched up. I was going to call the vendor about swapping it, and it occurred to me that I might just let the motor suck some juice out of #2 to even it up. Instructions tell you how to avoid feeding juice to the motor, but also point out that it's harmless if it happens.

Today's effort was actually my second. I did this a couple of weeks ago, and my idle seemed to have dropped afterwards. Set that back up today and repeated the TBS. This pic is the starting point of the first effort a couple of weeks ago. Again, no telling what the actual unit difference is, but you're supposed to have them within the same range of lines, not two or three lines off from one another. I also noticed the bubble, which was easily removed by unhooking the tool and using the centripetal sling technique and starting over. . . Note the storage clips for the 4-way manifold and tube. The adapters it comes with for some bikes store in the base of the unit, so where it hangs on your shop wall it contains everything it came with, no looking for that piece or this one 2 years from now. And unlike most mercury tools it can be stored laying flat.

Start.jpg


Today's starting point after adjusting the idle back up to 1100 RPM was better, but still needed a tweak.

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I'm gonna get all crazy here, and instead of pencils I'm gonna show an actual screwdriver turning an actual screw during an actual adjustment. Fair warning. :lol:

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Ended up like so:

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You do this on a warmed-up bike. Once I parked the bike, it was a 15-minute job, including lifting and replacing the tank. But dang it, didn't have a chance to road test it. The missus came home from her mom's, and suddenly there were "things" that had to get done. Now. Today.

I ordered this from this link which I had seen in another thread around here somewhere. $69.95 is my kind of price compared to the other stuff out there. . . . :rolleyes: Also, you don't need the 6mm adapters it lists as optional accessories for Yamaha bikes.

 
Interesting tool, especially at the price. Do you know what the fluid is? As far as the accuracy, the proof is in the ride. Let us know if it made any difference in the running characteristics after you get a chance to ride it. May be a good find.

 
I don't know what the fluid is, but they sell little bottles of it for $3.95 at the site you order the tool from, so it's not unobtainable.

Heading out for a ride in just a few minutes. . . . :yahoo:

 
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Ride complete, viewing of multiple races from earlier today complete.

The bike seems not very different, actually. I've seen people report that the buzz is gone from the bars, but I still have a teeny little buzz about 80 or 85 miles per hour. Can't really tell you if it's less than before. I can tell you that the exhaust doesn't pop as much when coasting, and my gas mileage is up significantly, like 3 or 4 miles per gallon, at least. Lately I haven't been able to break 40mpg on the road even when limiting my behavior. Today I was running the bike and broke 40. (Might be summer gas, I dunno.)

Weirdest thing is that the Audiovox cruise works better. Pulls better, holds hills better, resumes faster. Before you say, "Well, of course it does, you fixed the vacuum source," let me point out that #3 is my vacuum source for the CC, and I did not adjust #3, I matched the others to it.

I'll also add that I've also had a couple of other changes on the bike recently, but there's been a LOT of miles since those: I put a new ignition coil on, trying to track down #4 fouling. It actually seems to have taken care of the problem. I also have a new front tire, which will change the "feel" of course.

 
The problem I had with my unit is that two columns had large bubbles (about the size of a pencil width) that I couldn't get out no matter how I tapped on it or swung it around. I eventually sent it back and got a mercury one from e-bay. (I didn't know about the Carbtunes at the time or I would have gone with one of those)

 
I've got the same item, and I'm not impressed. I'm now looking for a set of vacuum gauges or a synchronizer which uses a common pool of mercury. Getting an accurate synchronization with this device is a matter of chance. I wish I had an option for a refund. Don't waste your money.

 
I've got the same item, and I'm not impressed. I'm now looking for a set of vacuum gauges or a synchronizer which uses a common pool of mercury. Getting an accurate synchronization with this device is a matter of chance. I wish I had an option for a refund. Don't waste your money.
Accurate sync I think you can get, realizing that you have to do the initial 4-into-1 operation every time you use the device, and on each bike if you're having a sync party.

(But it wouldn't hurt my feelings to use this and a "better" tool back-to-back for comparison. Don't have a better tool or know anyone around here who does.)

Measurement of actual vacuum, no way, but that's clearly stated.

I've seen other people complain about bubbles being hard to get out, easy to produce. I had no problem removing the one bubble I had.

 
(putting on flame retardent clothing) <_<

ok here it goes. i went to the carbtune web site and read a few links here on the site.

my lack of experience i am not sure what to do. they have fj1300 listed as bikes to use it

(the synctool) on but no other model of fj. will these sync tools work on any model bike?

:unsure: (closing face shield on helmet)

 
will these sync tools work on any model bike?
The important difference between engines will be in whatever vacuum port they use, and you'll just need an adapter to fit the hoses. They work the same on my two-stroke RZ-350 as on my four-stroke FJR with FI or SV-650 with carbs.

The RZ has a threaded hole where you take out a screw and replace it with a threaded brass tube, but the SV & FJR are nice in that you just take a cap off of tubes that are a stock part of the carbs/throttle bodies, except that the front carb on the SV is fricking buried deep behind the radiator and you have to get creative to reach it.

 
Thats a nice looking unit there. I have the Carbtune and prefer it to all the rest because of it's size. If I am on my bike going over a thousand miles, I have it with me. PORTABILITY has me hooked on it. Course it works pretty good toooo.

 
I thought this bit of info was interesting & worthy of some discussion (taken from another forum):

Can I make a often overlooked suggestion about carb sync? 9 times out of 10 it is NOT the carbs that are out or sync. The vacume difference between cylinders your seeing is usually due to the variance in valve clearance. As a valve loosens the lift becomes smaller and the duration shorter, or if it is tighter more lift and duration. This shows up as a change in vacume (also can be felt as the rough idleing). Not saying don't sync, but always do the valves first! then hook up you vacume tool. Almost always if the valves are adjusted the 'sync' comes back. IMO don;t even touch the sync until the valves have taken a good set (7500+ miles). Here's another thing to ponder: the bank of 4 carbs are synced at the factory on a test bench using the throttle plate adjusters AND the idle mixure screws. Ever wonder why the mix screws aren't always set the same? it is not sloppy workmanship. When the concensus is to turn the the mix screws out to say 2.25t for example, and the stock spec is 1.75, it is possible that it is better just to turn each screw out a 1/2 turn from the factory setting than to count each out out evenly. I'll let you guys kick this around beacuse I've been undecided on this for years. cheers

 
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