Are OEM brake pads for a 2014ES sintered?

[Cookie]

Does anyone know if the OEM front brake pads for 2014 ES are organic, semi metallic or sintered? After 45,000 miles, it's time to replace the pads. OEM will cost me around $165.00 and take a week to get to my house. I can get EBC HH sintered pads (FA423/HH) from Dennis Kirk in a day for $122.52.

From what I'm reading, one should only use sintered pads on rotors designed for them. I have no idea what the OEM pads are made of. I don't want excessive rotors wear.

Thanks for any advice.

 

[RossKean]

Does anyone know if the OEM front brake pads for 2014 ES are organic, semi metallic or sintered? After 45,000 miles, it's time to replace the pads. OEM will cost me around $165.00 and take a week to get to my house. I can get EBC HH sintered pads (FA423/HH) from Dennis Kirk in a day for $122.52.

From what I'm reading, one should only use sintered pads on rotors designed for them. I have no idea what the OEM pads are made of. I don't want excessive rotors wear.

Thanks for any advice.

FWIW, I have always used the EBC HH pads. I have a 2011 (and a 2007 before that) but I don't think the rotors are any different. 186,000 miles on the '07 and 100,000 on the 2011. Never changed a rotor. I get 60,000+ miles out of a set of fronts - more on the rear. I swap them around when I change tires since they don't all wear the same. Probably gets me another 25% life out of them. The lower right piston pair is only actuated with the rear brake so those ones wear very slowly for me.

Edit to add - EBC come four pads to a package whereas the OEM come two pads to a package. Locally, the EBC cost me less than half...

 

[Ignacio]

From what I'm reading, one should only use sintered pads on rotors designed for them. I have no idea what the OEM pads are made of. I don't want excessive rotors wear.

Read where? Most of my memory from brake pads on this forum (yes, search on 'sintered' to see various discussion) is the aftermarkets are preferred and sintered is a little or no concern. I've got about 300,000 miles total on various OEM pads and then aftermarket after they wore out...and my rotors all seem to be intact and not horribly worn.

 

[Cookie]

Thanks to RossKean and Ignacio for the information. I was getting mixed information when I searched under Organic vs Sintered Brake pads. Some guys said use OEM, others have had great results with EBC HH Sintered with no rotor damage. I'm going to buy the EBC FA423/HH pads.

I did a YouTube search and found a video from Motorcyclist Magazine - MC Garage. They said most modern bikes have sintered brake. After that I brough up the Dennis Kirk web site. Under the products for the EBC sintered HH pads was a disclaimer - "Note: Never use sintered metal brake pads in bikes originally equipped with non-sintered pads." That's when I thought I should tap the collective mind trust of the forum. I think the answer is OEM pads are sintered.

I replaced the pads on my 05 FJR ABS with OEM pads and had no trouble. That was a few years ago. I'm sure things have changed since then.

Again, thanks for the advice.

 

[Diablo1]

FWIW, I have always used the EBC HH pads. I have a 2011 (and a 2007 before that) but I don't think the rotors are any different. 186,000 miles on the '07 and 100,000 on the 2011. Never changed a rotor. I get 60,000+ miles out of a set of fronts - more on the rear. I swap them around when I change tires since they don't all wear the same. Probably gets me another 25% life out of them. The lower right piston pair is only actuated with the rear brake so those ones wear very slowly for me.

Edit to add - EBC come four pads to a package whereas the OEM come two pads to a package. Locally, the EBC cost me less than half...

I’m glad you thought about moving the pads around too. I have 82,000 miles on my bike, and likely original pads. I measured every pad, and also came to the conclusion that I can get a lot more life out of them by moving them around. I thought maybe I was being too cheap. I think I can get at least 50,000 more miles out of them.

 

[RossKean]

I’m glad you thought about moving the pads around too. I have 82,000 miles on my bike, and likely original pads. I measured every pad, and also came to the conclusion that I can get a lot more life out of them by moving them around. I thought maybe I was being too cheap. I think I can get at least 50,000 more miles out of them.

I'm sure that there are lots of people who will tell you that it is a bad idea or at least to replace both pads of any piston pair at the same time using only new pads but I have never had any issue with loss of braking efficacy and do not feel that safety is compromised in any way. The Gen II+ front brake pads are (individually) small and seem to wear evenly across the surface. (Might be different for Gen I pads where two piston pairs actuate a single pad pair which may result in uneven wear across an individual (larger) pad.) Once the pads are all more-or-less down to 20% or so, I don't swap them any further and generally plan to get another set to have on hand. Pads are way cheaper than rotors and there is no point in running them to the point where you damage a brake disk. I probably change them sooner than absolutely necessary, but still get my money's worth.

You have done very well getting 82,000 miles out of a set of pads! It all depends on where (and how) you ride, plus payload. Huge difference in pad consumption between aggressive twisties (or track) and highway touring. City riding can also use up pads more quickly whereas use of engine braking can extend lifetime. (I said 60,000+ miles for me but probably average better than that.)

 

[Rocnsanman]

I too have only used EBC Sintered pads and like Ross "rotate" my pads during a tire change. Excellent stopping power and no discernable rotor wear.

 

[Whooshka]

No issues with EBC here. I like the initial bite. If switching to these just scuff your rotors with some 220 grit on a sanding block then spray them down with brake cleaner.

 

[art miller]

No issues with EBC here. I like the initial bite. If switching to these just scuff your rotors with some 220 grit on a sanding block then spray them down with brake cleaner.

When you folks rotate the pads, do you switch pads left side to right side and vise versa? I have 67,000 on my original pads and they still look to be more than half remaining on the pads. Nearly all the miles are road trips and I always use engine braking and rarely ever needed to break hard.

 

[RossKean]

When you folks rotate the pads, do you switch pads left side to right side and vise versa? I have 67,000 on my original pads and they still look to be more than half remaining on the pads. Nearly all the miles are road trips and I always use engine braking and rarely ever needed to break hard.

If I have a thinner pad, I swap it with a thicker one. No particular formula. I don't go nuts over it but probably end out extending lifetime by 25% or so. As mentioned, the lower right piston pair wears more slowly for me as I don't use a lot of back brake (linked to the lower front right). If one (or more) of the other pads is wearing dramatically faster, you may have an issue with a dirty slider or a dirty piston. I make a point of cleaning and silicone grease on the slider pins annually. At the same time, I thoroughly clean the calipers and extend the pistons to clean the sides of them up with a soft cloth. (Just don't extend them too far.) I clean the "Support pad" spring as well before reassembly. Tire changing time is ideal for this stuff since the calipers are off anyway.

 

[Diablo1]

So I took another look at my front brake calipers while moving the pads around to even out the wear. I noticed some slivers of rubber sneaking out some of the pistons, so figured that it must be the dust seals worn out. Ordered a complete set of OEM seals. I read the service manual for the replacement of seals, and it doesn’t mention an orientation for the piston seals. Does anyone know for sure that the seals are symmetrical? A lot of argument on the internet about seal orientation on various brands.

 

[RossKean]

So I took another look at my front brake calipers while moving the pads around to even out the wear. I noticed some slivers of rubber sneaking out some of the pistons, so figured that it must be the dust seals worn out. Ordered a complete set of OEM seals. I read the service manual for the replacement of seals, and it doesn’t mention an orientation for the piston seals. Does anyone know for sure that the seals are symmetrical? A lot of argument on the internet about seal orientation on various brands.

I have never had to replace seals in calipers or master cylinders although Yamaha says every two years! From what I could see on-line, it appears that these seals have a square cross-section and I don't know if there is a correct orientation or not. I would pay attention to removal of the old ones if there appears to be any difference from one side to the other. Photo found on internet searching on that part number... Most available photos have too much contrast to see detail.

Have a good look at the piston sides for corrosion or scratches. (I have seen corrosion on these - removeable with very fine carbide paper or possibly 000 steel wool if corrosion is only superficial.) Obviously done out of the caliper followed by rigorous cleaning.

I assume you had a good look at the caliper seal kits? There are THREE different part numbers. Two kits (4 seals each) for the right caliper and one (8 seals) for the left. (Pistons are different sizes on the right).




Fiche is for a 2011 but should be the same for yours (any Gen II+).
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2011/fjr1300a-fjr13aas/front-brake-caliper
Disregard if you have already looked at all of this...

 

[Diablo1]

I have never had to replace seals in calipers or master cylinders although Yamaha says every two years! From what I could see on-line, it appears that these seals have a square cross-section and I don't know if there is a correct orientation or not. I would pay attention to removal of the old ones if there appears to be any difference from one side to the other. Photo found on internet searching on that part number... Most available photos have too much contrast to see detail.
View attachment 6132
Have a good look at the piston sides for corrosion or scratches. (I have seen corrosion on these - removeable with very fine carbide paper or possibly 000 steel wool if corrosion is only superficial.) Obviously done out of the caliper followed by rigorous cleaning.

I assume you had a good look at the caliper seal kits? There are THREE different part numbers. Two kits (4 seals each) for the right caliper and one (8 seals) for the left. (Pistons are different sizes on the right).

View attachment 6133


Fiche is for a 2011 but should be the same for yours (any Gen II+).
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2011/fjr1300a-fjr13aas/front-brake-caliper
Disregard if you have already looked at all of this...

Yep, thanks. I ordered the 3 different seal sets, just waiting for delivery. I plan to split the calipers to make it easier to clean the seal grooves. I don’t see any seals between the caliper halves on the parts diagrams. I’m wondering if there are seals or not. I can’t understand how there wouldn’t be seals.

 

[RossKean]

I don’t see any seals between the caliper halves on the parts diagrams.

I didn't think the calipers split, but haven't ever looked closely at that. No suggestion of it in the FSM...

 

[2GENAE]

Following next set of tires on my 2008 AE thought I would replace the piston seals.

 

[RossKean]

Following next set of tires on my 2008 AE thought I would replace the piston seals.

I haven't done them (2011) and probably won't unless they leak or there is evidence of a sticking piston. Still, I certainly won't say you are wasting time/money. Owner's manual suggests replacing master cylinder seals at the same time (every two years)

Are you considering replacing brake/clutch hoses as well? (Yamaha suggests four years)

 

[Rocnsanman]

Yamaha suggests spending money on Yamaha parts. I've owned 3 different model year FJR's and not one of them had caliper issues or leaking seals If it isn't leaking or broken why fix it?

 

[RossKean]

Yamaha suggests spending money on Yamaha parts. I've owned 3 different model year FJR's and not one of them had caliper issues or leaking seals If it isn't leaking or broken why fix it?

How many miles and how old?
While I probably won't do mine (at 13 years old and over 100,000 miles) until I have a problem, I recognize that caliper and master cylinder seals are wear items as well as being subject to age-related hardening. I wouldn't suggest that replacing 16 year old seals is unnecessary or a waste of money but, to me, the risk of failure doesn't outweigh the effort required. I might change my tune after @2GENAE and @Diablo1 report back and tell us how easy it was...

(I am even less likely to replace hoses until there is a need.)

 

[art miller]

I am in the camp with RossKean. I have had three FJR's and never had a leak in any of the brake components. My riding habits and cleaning procedures may have contributed to this. I have never ridden on roads where salt was present. I rarely ride in the rain. After each trip I carefully clean the bike including washing the brake calipers and rotors. I have always changed the brake and clutch fluids every two years. The current 2014ES has 69,000 miles on the clock.

 

[2GENAE]

I haven't done them (2011) and probably won't unless they leak or there is evidence of a sticking piston. Still, I certainly won't say you are wasting time/money. Owner's manual suggests replacing master cylinder seals at the same time (every two years)

Are you considering replacing brake/clutch hoses as well? (Yamaha suggests four years)

My brake lines aren't cracked and still look good and not rock.hard. My 2008 had always been garaged. So no not replacing my hoses yet. Laughing replace every 4 years.
At 59,000 miles last set of tires I replaced my brake pads and after inserting a a thin piece of wood to expose my pistons in the front calipers to clean them Q tip alchohol I could see a bit of a black seal or O ring. After I cleaned and lightly lubed the pins and clips for the new EBC HH pads I installed them vacuum bled them and activated ABS pump several times ( Ray on/off switch) no leaks. But I've never noticed seeing a very thin black line like a O ring. I thought maybe my wood spacer allowed that piston to extend out farther. Again no.leaks I check every oil change flashlight on my lift in the air. Pads are dry, and I like these EBC HH pads less dust on my metallic silver wheels and initial bite is stronger then my OEM pads but they were almost worn out, new OEM might react like the new EBC HH. So next pair of GT tires and calipers off I thought I would remove the calipers and replace those 16 year old piston seals.