Audiovox CC install question

[skyway]

The unit is now fully installed, but when using the led test light to check out the system, it does not light up when I press on the brake lever. I followed the install from fjrinfo which explains using the 2 wires running toward the back of the bike with brown connectors. I am using LED's back there instead of bulbs, could this be it?

 

[skyway]

This photo and quote are taken from fjrinfo, it shows where to connect to the coil:

Fasten the Female T-Tap included in the kit to the wire on the coil that is Gray with red markers (the wire on the right) and plugin the Blue wire. This will provide your Tach signal.

Except on my bike the wire on the left is a gray wire with small green bands and the right wire is red with a thin black stripe and small green bands. I have a US '04 ABS, anyone else have this color scheme and if so which one do I connect to?

 

[radman]

Shane and I did both taps at the ecm and the abs unit. Unfortunately, Shane did the taps while I worked on the cable placement etc. I do know the locations we used helped simplify and shorten immensely the wire runs. Could it be just a bad connection at the tap? I ran into this sveral times before just soldering up the connects.

 

[skyway]

Could it be just a bad connection at the tap?

I checked voltage at both connections and they seem ok. The wire that requires 12volts only when the brake is pressed is around 8.0volts before it's pressed.

 

[FJRocket]

This photo and quote are taken from fjrinfo, it shows where to connect to the coil:
Fasten the Female T-Tap included in the kit to the wire on the coil that is Gray with red markers (the wire on the right) and plugin the Blue wire. This will provide your Tach signal.

Except on my bike the wire on the left is a gray wire with small green bands and the right wire is red with a thin black stripe and small green bands.  I have a US '04 ABS, anyone else have this color scheme and if so which one do I connect to?

I taped into the grey wire for the RPM's. On my '04 ABS, the grey wire was on the coil kindof BEHIND the red wire. I taped into the brake light under the seat behind the tool tray. I also have LED's running in the back, and that shouldn't make any difference. If the brake switch works and the cc is powered, it should shut off.

Seems when I first hooked mine in, the color of the wires from the FJRINFO site were not correct. Hence, I connected to the grey wire and all was well with the cc.

... Wonder what colors the '06 will have....

 

[skyway]

It's raining like a MOFO right now, can I test the CC using the centerstand and the bike in gear showing MPH above 35?

 

[Shane]

It's raining like a MOFO right now, can I test the CC using the centerstand and the bike in gear showing MPH above 35?

Sort of,

If the bike is on the centerstand and in gear, you should be able to feel the throttle accellerate from your hand on its own when you engage it. Try second or third gear.

Note that it will shut down almost immediately, since it is designed to cancel upon uncontrolled accelleration, ie. wheelspin.

You should be able to tell if it is going to engage properly, and that is all that you'll need to know while in the garage.

DISCLAIMER: Do not perform the above-mentioned deed, you could die. Motorcycles are dangerous, and should not be tested indoors in any way.

Shane

 

[skyway]

Thanks for the reply's. I tried the centerstand thing and no go for CC. I have been back through the entire wiring and checked all voltages etc as stated in the owners manual, no go. Could this unit be defective?

Once the engine is running and the cruise control is set to on, the led used to verify the control pad functions flashes constantly. Is this normal?

Re: CC cable to the throttle assembly. Does the unit only take up the cable slack once the unit is set to on?

 

[ionbeam]

CC has to be on the road to work. It shouldn't/won't work on the center stand. If it works on the center stand something is wrong. -=Really-= It has to do with the way the speed control is designed into the Audiovox.

Alan

 

[skyway]

OK, will need to test ride when the rain backs off before I start chasing my tail.

 

[FJRocket]

I think there was an instance on the other board where someone had a dead unit out of the box. Lord knows you should have enough units sitting there to try out. I volunteer mine if you think you have a bad one.

Also, when you test it, you have to be over 30 - 35 mph.

When you start the bike, do you notice any activity in the servo? Can you hear it "suck up"? I can hear mine initiate when I start the bike. IF yours doesn't do that, you might have a vaccum problem.

 

[Constant Mesh]

The purple CC servo wire must read 0 volts to ground when the brakes are not pressed. If you've added something in the brake light circuit that doesn't let the FJR's yellow brake light wire drop to 0 volts when not braking -- the servo won't actuate.

The blue servo wire can be easily tapped to either the orange or gray wire in the ECU wire harness. This is an easy connection. Much easier than making the connection at one of the ignition coils up front.

 

[skyway]

I think there was an instance on the other board where someone had a dead unit out of the box. Lord knows you should have enough units sitting there to try out.   I volunteer mine if you think you have a bad one.

:lol: 'Aint that the truth. I figured out what the problem is, it now works as advertised.

The purple CC servo wire must read 0 volts to ground when the brakes are not pressed. If you've added something in the brake light circuit that doesn't let the FJR's yellow brake light wire drop to 0 volts when not braking -- the servo won't actuate.

I am not knowing of many things re: Audiovox, but this statement I now believe is what caused my problem. Remember this: "I checked voltage at both connections and they seem ok. The wire that requires 12volts only when the brake is pressed is around 8.0volts before it's pressed."

The LED's in the tail section were the culprit. I swapped back to stock bulbs, and now I have 0 volts with no brakes pressed.

It's stopped raining too, time to button 'er back up and go test ride

 

[skyway]

Sort of,If the bike is on the centerstand and in gear, you should be able to feel the throttle accellerate from your hand on its own when you engage it. Try second or third gear.

Note that it will shut down almost immediately, since it is designed to cancel upon uncontrolled accelleration, ie. wheelspin.

You should be able to tell if it is going to engage properly, and that is all that you'll need to know while in the garage.

This is indeed what I see happening when I look at the CC cable with the gas tank raised up. Thanks for the tip.

 

[Shane]

Thanks for the reply's.  I tried the centerstand thing and no go for CC.  I have been back through the entire wiring and checked all voltages etc as stated in the owners manual, no go.  Could this unit be defective?
Once the engine is running and the cruise control is set to on, the led used to verify the control pad functions flashes constantly.  Is this normal?

Re: CC cable to the throttle assembly.  Does the unit only take up the cable slack once the unit is set to on?

Hey Skyway,

With the centerstand thing, remember it will not "cruise" with the wheel off of the ground, it should only engage for a brief moment and then cancel due to the high rate of accelleration that the CC is designed to recognize and prevent for safety reasons.

As to whether the unit could be defective? This is a possibility if all connections are good and solid. Note that the brakelight circuit is quite sensitive to alterations from factory specs, and was a source of problems to solve for me. It is also a possibility that vacuum check valve(s) could be installed backwards. I have seen this as well.

If everything checks out to be installed perfectly and the CC still does not work, you may have a defective unit, I have also seen two of these (that a friend of mine, who has a cloud of bad luck over his head at all times, purchased). There was an intrepid soul on another board that disassembled the CC unit and found a sticking part having to do with the vacuum operation that he was able to free up, which solved his problem. I have not tried disassembling, so cannot speak to this method.

IIRC, the LED in the body of the CC unit should flash continuously when powered on, with the cruise "engaged" while the engine is running, and the frequency of the flashes should increase with engine RPM. I have seen it do this consistently, whether or not there is actual engagement happening.

Any slack in the throttle cable from the CC should only be taken up when the CC is engaging successfully and "cruising". At all other times, even while the unit is just powered on, there should be no tension on the cable from the CC unit.

Good luck,

Oh yeah, the help line is there too, but YMMV etc...

Shane

 

[Shane]

Looks like I took too long with the last post,

Great Job Skyway!!

:agent: :agent: :agent:

Shane

 

[radman]

It is also a possibility that vacuum check valve(s) could be installed backwards.  I have seen this as well.

And which moron did this pray tell?..............

 

[Shane]

Your secret's safe with me radman,

Shane

 

[skyway]

A quick rideout and all is well. Since wifey and I like to go on long rides, this farkle will be a much welcomed addition. Riding big miles in a day just became a lot easier on my right hand. At first I was a little skeptical of CC on a MC, but now I know what I've been missing out on and what you guys have been enjoying for so long. I must say I am quite surprised at how smooth this system is, cruising at 65mph seems ssssooooooooooo slow.

I did not hook a vaccum canister yet, but did not experience any surging while going up and down hills. Is the vaccum canister necessarry, say when I'm fully loaded?