Audiovox CCS 100 Thermometer

[dcarver]

Works great when cold-ish, won't set when hot out..

Coldish equals ambient less than 78 F

When working, works great - sets quick, holds speed, no surging.

When not working, well, <_< ....

Voltlages look good at Control Switch, and all connectors have been cleaned and lubed.

Now that I've done some fjrforum research, next steps are:

1. Measure Blue for ACV at 10 pin (where exactly is this LED that's supposed to flash with rpm increase?)
2. Measure Purple at 10 pin for 0 vdc and 12 vdc with brake on (IIRC, I measured about 200 mvdc, brake lights off, and some are installing a relay to ensure 0 vdc)
3. Measure vacuum to ensure I don't have a vacuum line closing down, pinching down with heat..
4. Make sure 10k dropping resistor is OK on Blue line (suppressing resistor)

Any other ideas to troubleshoot?

I don't think it's going to be any of the above. My hunch is the servo or circuit board is failing due to heat stress. This is a Smitty install with the servo under the tank on top of valve cover.

One last question - does anyone know where Smitty typically tapped into the brake circuit?

I've started to compile all the good info from various AudioVox threads on the fjrforum here.

When complete will xnfr the info back to here, the forum source for all things fjr!

 

[wfooshee]

The LED is on the circuit board in the servo unit that you can see when you remove the switch cover.

And just to be anal, I'd tie the gray wire to the red one, behind the unit's fuse. The gray wire lights up the control pad, but with it done that way, you're depending on the bike's fuse for whatever circuit it ties into (probably running lights.)

Is this new behavior, or has it always done this?

 

[RadioHowie]

Don,

I just checked. Audiovox doesn't make a thermometer. Looks like you got screwed.

Buy any good bridges lately? :finger:

 

[dcarver]

The LED is on the circuit board in the servo unit that you can see when you remove the switch cover.

And just to be anal, I'd tie the gray wire to the red one, behind the unit's fuse. The gray wire lights up the control pad, but with it done that way, you're depending on the bike's fuse for whatever circuit it ties into (probably running lights.)

Is this new behavior, or has it always done this?

New behavior, wfoo. Gray wire to red? Isn't gray the Vehicle Speed Sensor?

Don,

I just checked. Audiovox doesn't make a thermometer. Looks like you got screwed.

Buy any good bridges lately? :finger:

No bridges, the tend to float away when hurricanes happen, eh Howie? :****:

Hug n' Kisses!

 

[bramfrank]

It seems to double post for me from time to time . . . this was one of these times.

 

[bramfrank]

Gray is the backlighting for the keypad.

Save yourself some trouble - disconnect the brake sensor wire and connect it to a solid ground to see if the problem persists or not - if it clears then you have your answer . . . add a relay.

 

[Constant Mesh]

I wouldn't install a relay for isolation when a simple diode will do.

My original Audiovox failed after six years of use. I got a new servo and connected it to the existing wiring bundle and everything was fine again. The servo is mounted under the seat in the space where the ABS unit normally resides. It doesn't get too hot there. Yet it still died after six years.

 

[mcatrophy]

Works great when cold-ish, won't set when hot out..

Coldish equals ambient less than 78 F

...

Where's your DIP switch 7? Some people have found this needs to be OFF for a GEN II.

I learnt this from ionbeam here.

Something to do with temperature either changing the coil voltage or the input sensitivity of the actuator.

Mine's still ON, but I'm waiting for some hot weather to see if it needs changing.

 

[kaitsdad]

Hey, Mr. Persistent !!

I've replace two servos in the last year - one had a mere 5500 miles, the other two IB Rallies. In both cases, it was the unit itself. Either a servo failure or a board/component failure. One was installed under the tank, the other under the right muffler bracket.

The low mileage unit failed suddenly - worked, then didn't. (under tank)

The high mileage unit failed over time - slow to engage, failure to hold, then nothing. (right side)

In both cases all signals/connections/wiring were correct; the units would even turn on and see the coil signals. But no sucking on the cable.

The under tank install was was the second one - the original installed by Smitty failed, the replacement unit lasted 5500 miles. Removed, not replaced.

The right side install was replaced. It works fine, and will continue to do so until it doesn't.

 

[ionbeam]

New behavior, wfoo. Gray wire to red? Isn't gray the Vehicle Speed Sensor?

The gray wire on terminal #2 in the servo is indeed for a VSS signal. The gray wire from the control pad is for back-lighting the switches.

Where's your DIP switch 7? Some people have found this needs to be OFF for a GEN II...

Good answer! DIP switch 7 should be switched off in all installations. It doesn't really matter for a Gen I but Gen II certainly does like #7 off.

Last fall I troubleshot a cruise to the component level and the bad component turned out to be a vacuum solenoid that had an assembly issue when it was first built. It just took some time for the errant seal to **** the spool in the bore jam things up.

 

[DesignFlaw06]

I have the exact same issue.

Cruise worked fine until I had the bike worked on. He redid the vacuum lines, and I think he shortened them. The electrical seems to be just fine, and the bike tries to set, but it is like it doesn't have the vacuum pressure to hold it once it gets to 80*F. I'm thinking maybe adding another reserve canister (i.e. fuel filter), it may fix it. I just haven't had time to do it. I'll let you know if I get that fixed. But I'll be watching this thread with interest until then.

 

[wfooshee]

It's conceivable that an electrical connection is failing when hot. I know on mine, I originally used those quick-snap splice clamps, but it only worked reliably for a few weeks. I went through and changed all the connections to cut/strip/solder/shrink-wrap and it's been fine for nearly 5 years since that.

 

[dcarver]

I might have time to mess with it this weekend. Or I just might wait until I source a new one. Too much work just to get at it just to mess with connections and what not. 6 years of service is fine with me.. I'll shotgun a new servo, and while there check or redo all connections. In the meantime, winter is around the corner so it will be good for awhile!

:lol: :lol:

 

[dcarver]

Question for those that have measured voltages at the 4 pin -

 

When measuring a Set or Resume wire, does the voltage instantly get to max or does it slowly climb up from about 11.8?

Mine does a slow ascension rate, almost like it's charging a capacitor..

 

I'm starting to hope maybe it's really a bad ground after all..

 

Thoughts?

 

[bramfrank]

I wouldn't install a relay for isolation when a simple diode will do.

My original Audiovox failed after six years of use. I got a new servo and connected it to the existing wiring bundle and everything was fine again. The servo is mounted under the seat in the space where the ABS unit normally resides. It doesn't get too hot there. Yet it still died after six years.

The brake input is already voltage sensitive, particularly so on a Gen-II - installing a diode puts an additional .7 volts on the lead. use a relay.

 

[wfooshee]

Question for those that have measured voltages at the 4 pin -

 

When measuring a Set or Resume wire, does the voltage instantly get to max or does it slowly climb up from about 11.8?

Mine does a slow ascension rate, almost like it's charging a capacitor..

 

I'm starting to hope maybe it's really a bad ground after all..

 

Thoughts?

You're talking about the yellow and green wires, right? Are you saying they have 11.8 volts before you hit the buttons, or are you saying it has 11.8 when you hit it and then creeps up? If the former, then we know why your cruise won't work..... If the latter, I'm not sure that's an issue.

When checking mine after installing, I didn't measure that precisely, I just looked for the meter to swing when I hit the button. If the button makes the wire go from nothing to battery, I think you're good.

 

[mcatrophy]

Question for those that have measured voltages at the 4 pin -

 

When measuring a Set or Resume wire, does the voltage instantly get to max or does it slowly climb up from about 11.8?

Mine does a slow ascension rate, almost like it's charging a capacitor..

 

I'm starting to hope maybe it's really a bad ground after all..

 

Thoughts?

SET and RESUME should go straight up to ignition voltage. The switches on the panel are just that, no fancy electronics to delay anything.

Diagram shows it all, and the printed circuit board switches with conductive rubber contactors.

(click on image for larger view) ...



All the "clever" stuff is to control the ON/OFF wire to the actuator.

 

[dcarver]

If the button makes the wire go from nothing to battery, I think you're good.

IIRC, it never got to full battery voltage, and it creeps up then settles out, lower than batt vdc as measured at battery. Need to retest.

 

SET and RESUME should go straight up to ignition voltage.

The brown wire is like, BANG, full voltage NOW. The Set and Resume creep up there..

 

I guess I could disconnect the 4 pin from the servo and see if something in the servo is loading it down?

 

I have to work this weekend so this project is on hold for now...

 

Thanks for all the input and advice, guys!

 

[DesignFlaw06]

Here's another interesting symptom from my cruise control. It behaves the same way in higher elevations. We just got back from Colorado over the weekend. In temperatures where it would work fine in Michigan, it wouldn't work in Colorado. Same type of behavior.

I'm going to try and add an additional canister to mine this weekend and see if it helps any.