Bungie
FrostBack #2 - IBA # 44620
So last year I installed an AVCC. Wunnerful! On the way back from EOM09 the thing went intermittent (wouldn't set) and finally just gave up the ghost altogether.
I've been meaning to make some time to have a look at it. So getting my bike prepped for Wheatnesses camp out in NC seemed like as good a time as any.
First order of business was to check for the obvious. Vacuum at the unit -Check,
Blinky LED behind the access panel - Check,
With the engine off and the ignition on. Turn on the cruise. Look into the servo housing where the wiring harness is installed. The Red LED should blink once as the Set and Resume buttons are pressed.
Start the bike; Turn on the cruise and look into the servo housing where the wiring harness is installed. The Red LED should be blinking. Increase the engine RPM’s and the LED should flash faster. This confirms that you have a good tach signal.
Throttle linkage - Check.
Crap.
Okay, so lets start with the electrical because that's the most likely culprit. From Audiovox's manual (reprinted here for future posterity)
TROUBLE SHOOTING
WIRING - 10 PIN CONNECTOR
Note : If the brown, green, or yellow wires do not test properly, proceed immediately to the testing of the
4 pin control switch testing.
POSWIRE COLOR FUNCTION
9 Black Always continuity to ground
3 RedAlways + 12 VDC
1 Brown+ 12 VDC with Ignition switch and cruise control switch ON.
O VDC with Ignition switch or cruise control switch OFF.
4 Purple+ 12 VDC when the brake pedal is pressed.
0 VDC when the brake pedal is released.
To test the Green and Yellow wires, the Ignition Switch and Cruise Control Switch must both be turned on and
left ON.
8 Green+ 12 VDC when the SET / COAST switch is pressed.
0 VDC when the SET / COAST switch is released.
6 Yellow+ 12 VDC when the RESUME / ACCEL switch is pressed.
0 VDC when the RESUME / ACCEL switch is released.
CLOSED CIRCUIT SWITCH
8 Green0 VDC when the SET / COAST switch is pressed.
+12 VDC when the SET / COAST switch is released.
6 Yellow+ 12 VDC when the RESUME / ACCEL switch is pressed.
0 VDC when the RESUME / ACCEL switch is released.
10 Blue Engine RPM. Increasing AC Voltage with engine speed.
2 Grey Vehicle Speed Sensor:
Factory VSS: Roll vehicle forward (approx. 3 feet), in neutral with
Ignition and Cruise Control On. L.E.D. should flash.
Magnets or Fords: Drive at 30 M.P.H. approx. 500-1000 milivolts
AC.
OPEN CIRCUIT SWITCH
4 PIN CONTROL SWITCH TESTING
Red - +12 VDC with Ignition Switch ON.
Brown - Same as Pos 1 above.
Green - Same as Pos 8 above.
Yellow - Same as Pos 6 above.
Everything checked fine. Double checked the vacuum. Still fine. That only leaves either the unit itself or the throttle connection.
I recall when I first installed the unit it would take quite a bit of time to 'set. Like 30 seconds or so. (I only have it connected to one vacuum port with no reservoir. I attributed this to to much 'float' in the chain. I had been meaning to remove about two links out of it. Twisting the throttle before starting I noticed that the CC cable would have to move a LOT just to set. So I removed a couple of links from the chain and re-adjusted the floating link (the chain) so that it was 'just' loose at idle.
Went for a ride and lo and behold it was working again. I guess the clamp had allowed the AVCC cable to move and was using up all available travel just trying to get it to set.
WOOHOO!
I've been meaning to make some time to have a look at it. So getting my bike prepped for Wheatnesses camp out in NC seemed like as good a time as any.
First order of business was to check for the obvious. Vacuum at the unit -Check,
Blinky LED behind the access panel - Check,
With the engine off and the ignition on. Turn on the cruise. Look into the servo housing where the wiring harness is installed. The Red LED should blink once as the Set and Resume buttons are pressed.
Start the bike; Turn on the cruise and look into the servo housing where the wiring harness is installed. The Red LED should be blinking. Increase the engine RPM’s and the LED should flash faster. This confirms that you have a good tach signal.
Throttle linkage - Check.
Crap.
Okay, so lets start with the electrical because that's the most likely culprit. From Audiovox's manual (reprinted here for future posterity)
TROUBLE SHOOTING
WIRING - 10 PIN CONNECTOR
Note : If the brown, green, or yellow wires do not test properly, proceed immediately to the testing of the
4 pin control switch testing.
POSWIRE COLOR FUNCTION
9 Black Always continuity to ground
3 RedAlways + 12 VDC
1 Brown+ 12 VDC with Ignition switch and cruise control switch ON.
O VDC with Ignition switch or cruise control switch OFF.
4 Purple+ 12 VDC when the brake pedal is pressed.
0 VDC when the brake pedal is released.
To test the Green and Yellow wires, the Ignition Switch and Cruise Control Switch must both be turned on and
left ON.
8 Green+ 12 VDC when the SET / COAST switch is pressed.
0 VDC when the SET / COAST switch is released.
6 Yellow+ 12 VDC when the RESUME / ACCEL switch is pressed.
0 VDC when the RESUME / ACCEL switch is released.
CLOSED CIRCUIT SWITCH
8 Green0 VDC when the SET / COAST switch is pressed.
+12 VDC when the SET / COAST switch is released.
6 Yellow+ 12 VDC when the RESUME / ACCEL switch is pressed.
0 VDC when the RESUME / ACCEL switch is released.
10 Blue Engine RPM. Increasing AC Voltage with engine speed.
2 Grey Vehicle Speed Sensor:
Factory VSS: Roll vehicle forward (approx. 3 feet), in neutral with
Ignition and Cruise Control On. L.E.D. should flash.
Magnets or Fords: Drive at 30 M.P.H. approx. 500-1000 milivolts
AC.
OPEN CIRCUIT SWITCH
4 PIN CONTROL SWITCH TESTING
Red - +12 VDC with Ignition Switch ON.
Brown - Same as Pos 1 above.
Green - Same as Pos 8 above.
Yellow - Same as Pos 6 above.
Everything checked fine. Double checked the vacuum. Still fine. That only leaves either the unit itself or the throttle connection.
I recall when I first installed the unit it would take quite a bit of time to 'set. Like 30 seconds or so. (I only have it connected to one vacuum port with no reservoir. I attributed this to to much 'float' in the chain. I had been meaning to remove about two links out of it. Twisting the throttle before starting I noticed that the CC cable would have to move a LOT just to set. So I removed a couple of links from the chain and re-adjusted the floating link (the chain) so that it was 'just' loose at idle.
Went for a ride and lo and behold it was working again. I guess the clamp had allowed the AVCC cable to move and was using up all available travel just trying to get it to set.
WOOHOO!
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