Audiovox Cruise Control - Vacuum connection questions

[maffud]

Hi guys.

I have just started installation of the CCS-100 cruise control unit on my 06 FJR (A). I am going to connect to just one of the vacuum ports plus a vacuum canister, and I just have a couple of questions about how they are connected.

It looked like FJRCarShopGuy's connections were made in-line with the existing vacuum tubes on the bike, rather than off of the normally capped nipples that are used for the Throttle Body Sync. Is is just as effective to use the nipples as opposed to tapping into the existing tubes with a T connection?

In most of the pictures of installations I've seen, it appears that there are no clamps of any kind used on the vacuum tube connections. I think I read of one installer using tie-straps to clamp on the connections. Is it necessary to use anything other than the tightness of the tubing to ensure good connections? I figured it was not, since they were vacuum connections and not pressure connections, but wanted to check with you all here.

Lastly, the Vacuum canister placement... I started the job with the intention of putting the servo under the coolant pipe at the front of the bike under the tank (like this), but once I got the tank and heat shield out of the way, I thought of another idea: putting the vacuum canister in that spot instead. The benefit: the smaller diameter of the vacuum canister would fit into the spot without removing the coolant hose that blocks it. The problem: I don't think regular PVC pipe will hold up to the engine heat it would experience there. The question: Does anyone have any other ideas for materials for the canister that would fit in that spot? Maybe the fuel-filter solution would work there? Or Maybe ABS pipe instead of PVC would hold up to the heat better?

Thanks!

Dan

 

[wfooshee]

You should actually use one of the capped ports and NOT the existing lines. If you need more vac, you can tie more than one of those ports together, but use check valves to keep them isolated from one another.

PVC will have no problem with the heat it finds up there.

 

[CAJW]

I used one of the capped ports and re-used the wire clamp that held the cap on. Regarding the vacuum canister, I used one of these https://www.fleetfilter.com/filter/wix-fuel...ters/33028.html which certainly will withstand a little extra heat. Post up if you're using anything other than stock stop/tail light bulbs as there is a relay you may have to install.

 

[johnny80s]

I found a spot under the airbox that I fit a long thin vacuum canister made out of 1 inch abs. It was about 8 inches long or so.

At least that's what she said.

 

[maffud]

I used one of the capped ports and re-used the wire clamp that held the cap on. Regarding the vacuum canister, I used one of these https://www.fleetfilter.com/filter/wix-fuel...ters/33028.html which certainly will withstand a little extra heat. Post up if you're using anything other than stock stop/tail light bulbs as there is a relay you may have to install.

Thanks. I think with the diameter of that filter, it might not fit without removing the coolant pipe, anyway. I am sure it would handle the heat, though.

Just stock lights here. I think I've got the electrical stuff under control. I am going to wire the unit always on, with a 3-position toggle switch on the left-hand grip housing for set/accel/resume/coast functions.

Thanks!

 

[RaYzerman19]

I went off one of the capped vacuum ports, and found without a check valve, it caused some idle issues (minor, and could have been my imagination). I also added a reservoir (steel fuel filter). Both the servo and fuel filter are under the seat, although I wouldn't mind some of that storage space back.... I don't think your reservoir has to be very big, and I am going to experiment with downsizing it.

 

[SLK50]

IMO: R&R of the coolant pipe was the easiest part of the install and definately worth the effort in order to retain the space under the seat.

Skip the reservoir; tap into all four ports and use vacuum diodes at each connection.

 

[maffud]

Good points all around. I am going to use the canister and a single port, since I have the parts for the canister and I only have one good check valve right now. I don't want to use the cheap ones from the auto parts store. Interesting there is a need to isolate the ports. On my FZ1 (Gen 1, carbed), I had a mod that actually linked all 4 vacuum ports together, and it seemed to smooth out the idle a little bit. Although with what I know now, I think it was likely a waste of time and parts and my imagination that it helped anything. It didn't hurt anything, though.

So generally, no one is using clamps on the vacuum connections, then?

Right now, I am leaning towards either trying the PVC in that spot under the tank, or just putting the servo there and sticking the reservoir in the spot under the tool tray.

Today I will be completing the throttle body sync before I go further in the CC install process.

Thanks!

-Dan

 

[RaYzerman19]

I didn't use any clamps, just make sure the hose is not too big and has some interference fit. You might be able to stick the reservoir in the cavity just behind the rider seat (under the front of the pillion seat).... or underneath behind the ECU (don't want any pinched vac line though).

 

[Good2Go]

Hey Dan,

I just checked my vac can is 1.5" black pvc about 4" long not including caps. The only vac conn I clamped was the one at the TB, because there was already a clamp there from the plug. Everything's still holding fine after 10k miles.

 

[xharleyrider]

I located the servo and canister under my seat with room left over for my tools. I only used the #4 vacuum with a check valve. It has been almost one year without any problems maintaing speed including riding in the mountains.

Good Luck................ :thumbsupsmileyanim:

 

[maffud]

Hey Dan,I just checked my vac can is 1.5" black pvc about 4" long not including caps. The only vac conn I clamped was the one at the TB, because there was already a clamp there from the plug. Everything's still holding fine after 10k miles.

Thanks Greg! Thanks for hooking me up with the check valve, too!

I wonder if the "black PVC" is actually ABS pipe, which uses the same Schedule 40 dimensions but is actually a completely different material. No matter, I think I am good with what I have. I'll figure something out.

I am working thru lunch so I can quit early today and get back to work on the bike.

-Dan

 

[Good2Go]

Hey Dan,I just checked my vac can is 1.5" black pvc about 4" long not including caps. The only vac conn I clamped was the one at the TB, because there was already a clamp there from the plug. Everything's still holding fine after 10k miles.

Thanks Greg! Thanks for hooking me up with the check valve, too!

I wonder if the "black PVC" is actually ABS pipe, which uses the same Schedule 40 dimensions but is actually a completely different material. No matter, I think I am good with what I have. I'll figure something out.

I am working thru lunch so I can quit early today and get back to work on the bike.

-Dan

That's Ed Zack Lee the pipe I used, sch 40 ABS.