audiovox cruise doesnt set, help please!!!!!!

[tbwrench]

hello, i really need some help here. my cruise i just installed on my 2004 FJR doesn't set. all the connections seem to work and the wiring all checks out according to audiovoxs troubleshootong guide, from the control on the bars back to the main unit.

the only thing i couldn't check was the wire to the coil. i used the right side terminal on the coil for the blue wire. the wire was SOLID gray in color, no stripe. the coil is the one behind the battery but in front on your right knee when seated on the bike.

i also suspect that because i removed the diode that says do not remove, i may be having this problem. i trimmed the wire and put the diode in line again at install but may have it in there backwards. is there polarity on the diode? and if it is backwards would that cause the cruise to not set?

everything else checks out and lights up, it just wont set.

thanks in advance for any help or suggestions!

tbwrench.

p.s. spent all day fri, most of sat, alot of sunday night and all morning monday doing the cruise, heated grips and controller, power outlets, 2 relays, headlight modulator, zumo, radar det. and shelf/wiring. just the cruise didnt work----- :angry2:

 

[Shane]

hello, i really need some help here. my cruise i just installed on my 2004 FJR doesn't set. all the connections seem to work and the wiring all checks out according to audiovoxs troubleshootong guide, from the control on the bars back to the main unit.
the only thing i couldn't check was the wire to the coil. i used the right side terminal on the coil for the blue wire. the wire was SOLID gray in color, no stripe. the coil is the one behind the battery but in front on your right knee when seated on the bike.

i also suspect that because i removed the diode that says do not remove, i may be having this problem. i trimmed the wire and put the diode in line again at install but may have it in there backwards. is there polarity on the diode? and if it is backwards would that cause the cruise to not set?

everything else checks out and lights up, it just wont set.

thanks in advance for any help or suggestions!

tbwrench.

p.s. spent all day fri, most of sat, alot of sunday night and all morning monday doing the cruise, heated grips and controller, power outlets, 2 relays, headlight modulator, zumo, radar det. and shelf/wiring. just the cruise didnt work----- :angry2:

Yes, the diode is like a check valve: works correctly only in one direction.

If the LED in the control unit lights up, that's good. If it flashes, that's better. If the rate of flashing increases with RPM rise, then your test of coil signal should be complete.

I'd try turning the diode around first.

Shane

 

[kaitsdad]

tbwrench,

what you removed was the resistor - not a diode. The resistor 'flattens' the signal out so the intelligence in the servo unit receives a proper signal.

The system will NOT operate without the resistor. That's why it has that great big red flag that says "do not remove".

Add the resistor back in - it's not polarity sensitive, so you don't need to worry about which way.

 

[wfooshee]

Have a look-see here. Your bike is a Gen-I so everything in that site applies. Shows where to get signals, how to set switches, everything. Check your work against that. It was my reference, and my unit has been perfect for most of a year.

I've put that Audiovox in about 5 or 6 vehicles and only one wouldn't work, a '94 Miata. Tossed it when I found a factory unit in a salvage yard.

I think you're on the wrong side of the coil, I used the gray with red stripe for the blue wire.

 

[tbwrench]

tbwrench,
what you removed was the resistor - not a diode. The resistor 'flattens' the signal out so the intelligence in the servo unit receives a proper signal.

The system will NOT operate without the resistor. That's why it has that great big red flag that says "do not remove".

Add the resistor back in - it's not polarity sensitive, so you don't need to worry about which way.

i did add the resistor at the original install, i merely took it out and trimmed my wire then added it again. so the no set condition is with the resistor in place -not sure if it was "pointing" the same way though.....

 

[tbwrench]

Have a look-see here. Your bike is a Gen-I so everything in that site applies. Shows where to get signals, how to set switches, everything. Check your work against that. It was my reference, and my unit has been perfect for most of a year.
I've put that Audiovox in about 5 or 6 vehicles and only one wouldn't work, a '94 Miata. Tossed it when I found a factory unit in a salvage yard.

I think you're on the wrong side of the coil, I used the gray with red stripe for the blue wire.

i used the same directions, and this is the second cruise i have installed on the FJRs. the first cruise worked perfect the first time. this one i am working on now checks out 100%. the only difference is the coil wire colors. my coil has a solid gray wire on the right and the other black with a red stripe i think. i will have to open it back up to look again. the yamaha service manual's colors dont seem to match what i have and very hard for me to understand. i wonder if my cruise is bad???

 

[wfooshee]

The coil wire in question is on the terminal to the rearward side of that coil. To the left if you're looking at the coil standing beside the bike.

 

[bramfrank]

OK, so you put the resistor back in - but . . Gray wire? I remember it as being Blue . . .

A major issue with the Audiovox is the brake sensor input. Some units are very finicky. To test this remove the brake sensor wire (working from memory, purple?) from whatever it is connected to and wire it directly to a negative (ground) point - ideally te same point the units takes it's ground from and try again.

If it works, you might need to 'build out' the brake sensor with a relay.

Note: Do NOT ride your bike with the brake input bypassed for any siognificant amount of time.

 

[ionbeam]

The coils share a common Red/Black wire (power). The coils are fired by an Orange and a Gray/Red wire, it doesn't matter if you use either the O or G/R wires. One of these wires gets connect to the AVCC Blue wire with the resistor.

The Purple AVCC brake wire goes to the Yellow FJR brake wire. This wire should switch from 0 to 12 volts (battery voltage). It should be either 0 or 12 volts, nothing in between. It is not uncommon for the brake peddle to hang up a bit causing a problem with the AVCC, check that the brake peddle is coming all the way up.

 

[tbwrench]

The coils share a common Red/Black wire (power). The coils are fired by an Orange and a Gray/Red wire, it doesn't matter if you use either the O or G/R wires. One of these wires gets connect to the AVCC Blue wire with the resistor.
The Purple AVCC brake wire goes to the Yellow FJR brake wire. This wire should switch from 0 to 12 volts (battery voltage). It should be either 0 or 12 volts, nothing in between. It is not uncommon for the brake peddle to hang up a bit causing a problem with the AVCC, check that the brake peddle is coming all the way up.

i have it working finally. i had to ground the purple wire. that was it. but now my brakes wont turn the unit off-duh- so i am thinking i need to use a relay of some sort.

with the brakes on i have 12v, with them off i have 1.11 volts. i checked the pedal, it does go up.

any help here with a relay??????

thanks every one for the great help, this forum rocks!

tbwrench.

 

[tbwrench]

OK, so you put the resistor back in - but . . Gray wire? I remember it as being Blue . . .
A major issue with the Audiovox is the brake sensor input. Some units are very finicky. To test this remove the brake sensor wire (working from memory, purple?) from whatever it is connected to and wire it directly to a negative (ground) point - ideally te same point the units takes it's ground from and try again.

If it works, you might need to 'build out' the brake sensor with a relay.

Note: Do NOT ride your bike with the brake input bypassed for any siognificant amount of time.

thanks bram, the grounding trick worked! now how about some info on the relay?

THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!

tbwrench

 

[tbwrench]

after doing a google search "audiovox brake relay" i have found several ways to do my relay.

another interesting thing i found is that led taillamp bulbs as well as brake light modulators usually cause the non operation problems that i experienced.

i have both. i am using the signal dynamice wigwag modulator.

thanks, tbwrench.

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

If the brake lights already have a relay (which they do), why do you need to add a relay for the AVCC to function properly?

edit: My question was for those running with stock brake lights. It sounds like tbwrench's problems stemmed from the Signal Dynamics Wig Wag Brake Modulator.

 

[ionbeam]

If the brake lights already have a relay (which they do), why do you need to add a relay for the AVCC to function properly?
edit: My question was for those running with stock brake lights. It sounds like tbwrench's problems stemmed from the Signal Dynamics Wig Wag Brake Modulator.

J2L, YOUR '06 FJR has a brake light relay, tbwrench's '04 does not.

Any of the aftermarket tail/brake light doodads are bad juju for an AVCC brake circuit. tbwrench is going to have to cobble in a brake relay that is independent of his farklized rear illumination. If someone is going to do an updated AVCC install procedure there should be a big red note added about after market flashers and LEDs.

tbwrench, "i am using the signal dynamice wigwag modulator" was a really important piece of information!

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

J2L, YOUR '06 FJR has a brake light relay, tbwrench's '04 does not.

Oooooh. I see

 

[tbwrench]

hi everyone, i just got back from a ride and all is well. my cruise works as it should. i made a breakout relay for the cruise brakes on (purple)wire. heres what i did.

i used a relay i had at the shop, i hope you are all sitting down, it's a harley part number 31504-91b its a starter relay.

#85 and #87A are grounded. #86 and #87 get 12v coming in when brakes are applied. #30 is 12v out to purple wire on the cruise.

the relay grounds the purple wire when brakes are off and applies 12v when brakes are on.

also note i found the purple wire had 10-12 volts coming out of the cruise module itself. the wire was not hooked up to anything, just the cruise module while it was in the harness. so these things must need to see either ground or 12v. not 0 or 12v as the manual states. OR maybe it's just that bad juju from my brake wig wag module...........

thanks again all for your help, suggestions and comments!

tbwrench.

P.S. i swore after the first cruise install i would never do it again,8 hours. this one went better 4 hours to install, except for the issues that came up,(countless hours) now that i have it all figured out and working i feel like an expert and a little puffed up........ i hope i don't have to do another cruise installation again, but i probably will.

 

[TahoeBound]

also note i found the purple wire had 10-12 volts coming out of the cruise module itself. the wire was not hooked up to anything, just the cruise module while it was in the harness. so these things must need to see either ground or 12v. not 0 or 12v as the manual states. OR maybe it's just that bad juju from my brake wig wag module...........

I'm having a similar issue as I posted yesterday. The weird thing is purple/yellow at the 6-pin is measuring 5.68V with just the key on (12V with brake on). I do NOT have any thing else hooked in. I don't mind building up a relay (though just one more thing to go bad), but wondering why my '08 is pulling 5.68V at rest. Strange. Or is that indicating a bad ground perhaps? My grounds are connected in parallel and go to the battery... I'm assuming since all controller lights work and the servo diagnostic LED tests check out fine, its not a ground problem.