Audiovox Cruise on the 2006 FJR1300AE

[FJRocket]

EDIT: Other than moving the computers and removing the tool tray to put the servo under the seat, the AE install is the same as the A model.

Yeah, I saw someone said he had a clicker, not a ticker. I thought that was kinda neat, so we AE riders are now CLICKERS....

I rode a bit today, up to only 70 miles. Started farkling in the AC comfort of my garage.

I commented after I picked my bike up that there was no way to put the Audiovox servo under the seat. Perhaps especially a Corbin seat that doesn't use a stock frame. I don't have the seat, but I can tell you now that I was WRONG.

This thread is started to share ideas on the install of the CCS-100 on an AE. It would be quite easy to do it if you want to put the servo on the frame under the saddlebag. I'm trying NOT to do that. I would rather reconfigure stuff under the seat and shoehorn in the servo than have the servo hanging out in the breeze (mud, snow, etc...), BUT it may come to that. Too soon to tell. I'm trying to mount it under the seat and not cut anything or do anything irreversible.

So far, I was able to remove the tool tray, AND remove the air filter outter cover and get the servo in there. Let me tell you that this is an ugly way to do this, and I am not recommending anyone do it. However, for grins and giggles, I just took off the seat adjuster, the right side cover, the air box cover and then started on the tool tray.

The AE tool tray has three computer wire bundles going to 2 massive modules. One takes up the top of the tray where I put the servo in my '04. The other module has one REALLY wide wire bundle going to it, and it is screwed to the bottom of the tool tray. To get the tray out, you have to unplug all three plugs, take out the 3 phillips screws and 2 10mm hex screws. The tray comes out by pushing forward under the seat latch and lifting out the traw with your left hand. Easy once you've done it. Now unscrew the module from the bottom and set it aside.

The large module on top has some pretty soft sealant under it, and I would bet that you could VERY easily damage the computer if you banged around against the rubberish sealant. Be VERY carefull. The border of this module has a lip around it to keep the soft side off the tray. Perhaps that helps vent and cool it, too. So no matter what you do with this module, be CAREFUL, and when you relocate it (if you relocate it), you may want to cut a piece of perf board or something to zip to the bottom of it to protect it and vent it.

Once I had the modules out, I started trying various combinations of organizing the parts back in. For the life of me, I could NOT figure out how to get everything back it with the tool tray in. It's quite easy to put everyting back in without the tool tray, but supporting everything becomes a problem. I haven't figured that out yet, but I'm working on it.

I was able to get the servo under the tool tray in one iteration. The cable came out the left side of the bike at a 90 degree angle. I'm not sure I can get the cable from the servo to work this way, AND get the side cover back on. You can't put the air box outer cover back on for sure.

 

[Bike Effects]

Good work and thanks for sharing the information. I don't have an '06 and that is no problem for me. I'm just jealous that you have an air conditioned garage!

 

[SkooterG]

I'm just jealous that you have an air conditioned garage!

+1

 

[FJRocket]

EDIT: The AE install is the same as the A model, except that you have to contend with the computers sucking up the tool tray space.

Again, I'm not saying anyone should do this. I'm just showing how I started getting things under the seat rearranged on an AE so that I could stick the CC servo under there.

The tool tray came out. I moved the top Mitsubishi computer module to lay on the rear fender, with the soft side down. It lays there nicely, with the plugs oriented to the left side.

The smaller module that was screwed to the bottom of the was dsconnected and tucked "nose first" down between the airbox inlet and the rear fender. With the "wings" of the module toward the middle of the bike, and the plug reinserted at the top, that thing wedges in there nice and tight.

So the Mitsu module lays at an angle and the bottom module is up ended nose down with the plug at the top. Now you have SCADS of room.

I think I could have rearranged the modules and other parts better, but those wire bundles just won't budge, and I certainly was NOT about to try.

Then in goes the servo. And just for fun, I can now put my Blue Sea 5025 in there, too. I'm going to have to fab some kind of shelf to keep everything separated and not rubbing. For now, though, this is just a project in it's infancy.. kind of a test bed just to see if it can be done.

And the nice thing is, with the tray gone, the computer modules moved and the servo and fuse block set into place, I can still get the seat adjuster thingy in place. Although I will be stowing that, too, soon as my Corbin gets here. I have already put my standard seats down and locked them without any interference. With the tray out of there, there is just LOTS of room. There was a BUNCH of dead space under that thing.

My garage has one tiny vent from the central AC system, without a return vent. I essentially leave the basement door open and let the cool air flow in on it's own. It ain't THAT great.... Better than outside in 93 degree heat, though.

Now to get the tank off and start running the cable to the throttle tang. Hmmm... should I do that tonight, or wait until tomorrow so I can just ride all day... Hmmm... Oh yeah, that damn throttle spring HAS to come off. Back to the bat cave....

 

[Thug]

Cool pics thanks

 

[Shane Stump]

FJRocket,

Let us know when we should start arriving at your garage for installation service !

Best Regards,

Shane

 

[FJRocket]

Phase Two... The Servo Cable...

EDIT: All the 2006's are the same (so far) except that the AE has the tool tray filled with computers...

I put the servo on the left side in the tool tray area and I'm running the cable from the servo along the left side of the bike frame. Probably should have used the right side, but heck, I did that LAST time. I just wanted to be different...

Off with the tank. Out with the heat shield (1 plastic screw and very easy to wiggle out. Nice piece. Looks VERY similar to the tank blanket I made a year ago....) Off with the fuel rail. Off with most of the connectors on the right side of the fuel rail, as well as the hoses over the top of the rail that are separate (air induction).

Here's what the insulation looks like:

I started drilling the tang with a 12 inch #40 aircraft type drill bit (Lowes). Then a #30 and on up with regular drill bits until I had room for the screw.

Along the way, I took a big pair of needle nose pliars and coaxed the tab to the left. What I did was move the tang until it barely touched the left side of the stop. If I had it to do over again, I would have flattened the tang and bent it to the left, but make the bend closer to the center of rotation. That way, I could get a cable connection on the BACK of the tang (over on the left side) that would move more freely. As stock, the throttle cable would contact a screw or bolt head on the tang, so you gotta bend it. C A R F U L LY.

Oh yeah, while I was at it I removed TWO springs off the throttle arm. DON'T DO THIS. The return is VERY weak, and it could result in a very dangerous situation. Please, only remove the one main spring. Mine is still in place, and it spun around once and reconnected. Cool! The spring to the left of it is completely disconnected, but sitting in place.

I used the two cable piggyback clamp and clamped the servo cable to the top throttle cable arm. I used the ball and chain, and had to play with it a lot to get it so that the cable cleared the main throttle parts. This bike is MUCH harder to get set up than the earlier bikes, but they're all a bitch. And there's more...

Servo cable was clipped in and bolted down. Adjusted it to reduce slack (did the main throttle cable too while I was at it!). Put the fuel rail back on, reconnected the wires. Started to reconnect the air hoses. OH NO! Houston, we have a problem. There is a gizmo call an "air cut valve assembly" that sits on a spring clip RIGHT WHERE THE SERVO CABLE HAS TO GO! DRAT!!

Well, I was hoping to do this procedure "non invasively", but I couldn't.... Unless you want to bring the cable in off center of the tang, you have to move the ACVA to the left to clear the servo cable. I see that others have actually come in to the tang at an angle, by essentially paralleling the OEM throttle cable and going over the top of it. I zip tied my ACVA down. The upper right hose that goes to a nipple on the top of the engine is now too short. It's a black high head hose with a stand off mouled into it. Well, I put that at the far left of the induction system, because there is a hose at the end that ALSO has a 90 degree bend in it, and it has a dummy plug in the end. I just swapped the hoses. So the invasive, irreversible part was cutting the dummy hose down to size so that there weren't any kinks in it.

Ah, so much for phase two. In the AM, I'll be ready to hook up the wiring harness and make a bracket for the control module.

 

[FJRocket]

Phase Three... the Wiring...

Before I attached anything, I chose which wires were going where, then installed the wires going forward into the corrugated sleeve. I snaked the sleeve with wires, then the cable and then the vacuum hose up under the left side of the frame (although the right side would be just as easy). I installed extra wires in the sleeve for future farkles. There's not much room in there, mine is now full, and I was not able to fold excess wire back into the bundle, even using thin wall aircraft wire. Later on, I may just have to run another sleeve up the other side of the frame for more farkle wires.

10 wire plug wires:

Purple wire to yellow wire in tail light bundle along lower left. There are nice pics of this on a couple other threads on the '06 install. My pictures weren't as clear

Red wire to blue wire in tail light bundle along lower left.

The BLUE wire went directly to my coil. You can use either outboard wire for a signal. I used the outermost wire on the outermost coil under the side panel behind the battery. Other '06 installers have said that they used a wire on the ECM module, but I have no info on that. I did the coil wire like I did on my '04. To get this wire to the coil, I ran it through a "cone" or "funnel" under the front right frame. That was put there at the factory to run wires to the battery area. I couldn't get a picture of it, but it's there, and it's a good place to run that blue wire (or wires to the battery) forward. This way they are still hidden and protected, not coming out of the frame out in the elements. The wires come up through the funnel and into the battery bay near the fuse blocks. It takes a bit of fishing to get the wires up through there, but it does work, and makes for a clean install. If you are running battery wires to the back for a fuse block, this is a good place to do it. I started with a 16 guage aircraft wire, which is pretty stiff, and taped the other wires I wanted to run to that bigger stiff wire. That made it easier to get them all (just 3 wires for me) in at once.

There are two black wires (one is at the module), and both have to be grounded. I grounded one to the ABS Brake line manifold between the tank and the triple tree on the right side of the frame. The other I went to my 5025 fuse block, but on my '04 I just used one of the srews in the frame under the front seat near the tank.

I spliced the fused red/orange wire in line so that it was back under the seat and it connects to the brown/white wire in the 8 wire plug under the tool tray on the left side of the bike (not to far from where you splice into the brake light wires). I didn't want to have to open the battery cover like on my '04, so I spliced in a long piece of auto wire to the red wire in the 4 color plug to the control module. Now the 3 amp fuse is under my seat where I can get to it easily. I hope all my farkle fuses will end up under the seat.

The yellow, green and brown wires just go to the control module plug. That control module plug will probably go through the opening in the frame where the ABS lines exit out the front under the triple tree.

There is a double wire that is black and grey combined. I left both of those wires together and they are just bundled up under the servo under the seat. I will probably cut those off, now that I'm certain they are not needed in the AE or any other FJR so far.

Done deal. Time to test ride!