Audiovox cruise varying

[Northwoods Snowman]

My searching isn't getting me much info. I just read through this thread and a couple people mentioned having my problem but there was no resolution. The problem I have is that even on a flat road, the cruise will slowly vary across a 3mph range. I set it at about 60 mph, the thing will slowly slow down to say 58 mph, then slowly climb back up to 61 mph, then back to 58, and back to 61. The acceleration and deceleration are hardly noticeable unless I'm watching the speedo but sometimes the transitions ARE very noticeable. By that I mean when going from an up cycle to a down cycle it feels like I suddenly completely let off the throttle and my body gets pushed forward, or vise versa. Anyone had this problem and fixed it? I don't seem to have any hangups in the cable, but I don't know how to disconnect the cable from the servo to actually pull on it by hand.

 

[RaYzerman19]

First thing to do is test your vacuum lines, check valve and reservoir for any leakdown. Start at the engine vacuum connection and work your way through your components. A slow vacuum leak will mean the CC100 diaphram is not able to hold the cable in a constant position, the electronics will compensate when the speed drops a bit, etc. Worst case you might have a leaky internal diaphram, hope not.

Check this out too.....

https://www.fjriders.com/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=786

 

[Richouse]

I have something similar. A few seconds after my cruise is set it will abruptly let off and slow down about 5mph then it will catch and speed back up to the set speed and then I don't have any issues. It does not vary like you describe, even going over hills it stays rock solid. I have not been able to figure this out and it does not do it 100% of the time but it does most of the time. Since it works flawlessly after this little blip I have not worried about it. I just know that it might let off the throttle once (and only once) so I'm ready for it. I would like to know if there is a way I can fix this but since its not a major issue I have not looked into it.

 

[Northwoods Snowman]

I had the tank off and checked the vacuum lines and it holds vacuum. I pulled it off the TBS port and sucked on the line and it holds just fine. It almost seems like the cable is sticking somehow. I added a piece of plastic air line as a stress relief to the end of the cable at the TBs but that's big enough to slide over the ball on the end of the cable. Can the cable be removed from the diaphragm assembly so it can be pulled on by hand? I know that was one thing mentioned in the post I linked to, but so far I don't have any kinks in the cable or anything else that would be an obvious interference. So far this is the only thing that makes since. The CC tries to accelerate, the cable binds and then jumps too far, but the CC doesn't let off enough to get the cable to jump back until enough speed obtained, then when it does let off, it could feel like taking your hand off the throttle because the cable jumps a little too far that way.

Oh, I should add that I checked the vacuum past the check valve too and it was fine.

 

[ionbeam]

Is this a new install? Has it ever worked correctly? Does the hand grip feel like it's jerking or is the movement smooth? The first thing that it sounds like is incorrect dip switch settings. Switch 1 ON; 2 OFF; 3 OFF; 4 ON; 5 OFF; 6 OFF; 7 OFF.

 

[Northwoods Snowman]

The PO installed it. Everything works fine except for the hunting like the governor on a poorly running lawn mower. Switch settings are correct. Never cuts out, just doesn't hold as steady as I think it should.

 

[ionbeam]

The PO installed it. Everything works fine except for the hunting like the governor on a poorly running lawn mower. Switch settings are correct. Never cuts out, just doesn't hold as steady as I think it should.

It should hold steady. The way it acts is like the switch settings are set for a heavy vehicle with a small engine.

When you push the speed SET button the AVCC reads the frequency on the coil wire and stows it in memory, then pulls and releases the throttle cable so as to keep the coil frequency matching the value in memory. How fast and how hard it pulls on the cable is set by the DIP switches. Generally, if the AVCC actuates the throttle cable but doesn't see an appropriate response from the coil frequency it will turn off the throttle control and you would have to press the SET button again. Since this isn't happening the AVCC thinks everything is working 'normal'.

If you had a brake voltage problem it wouldn't set at all. The coil wire and the brake wire are the only two real signals that the AVCC uses. If the coil wire was intermittent the AVCC would seen an error and shut off.

The next thing to check is the slack in the bead chain, when the throttle is completely closed (turn the throttle grip by hand to be sure it is fully closed) there should be as little slack as possible in the chain, yet still have the throttle tab sit on the stop.

In order of priority the symptoms are a DIP switch setting (which you actually looked at, and toggled each switch to be sure it was clicked in position and not slightly off); the bead chain has too much slack; vacuum.

If the DIP switches have been checked and found to be OK, and the bead chain is adjusted correctly about the only other thing that's left to check is the vacuum. It would be interesting to Tee a vacuum gauge into the vacuum line right at the servo, run the gauge up to the handlebars then go for a ride and watch the vacuum when you set the cruise.

While the AVCC can't be ruled out as being faulty, this would be a highly unusual failure symptom. The electronics and vacuum diaphragm of the servo are pretty much YES it works --or-- NO it doesn't work, and the vacuum solenoids are pretty much GOOD/BAD but there is a very, very unlikely possibility that a servo is sticking.

 

[mcatrophy]

I had fairy poor performance on mine until I put an air inlet to the body of the actuator (I had fully sealed mine against moisture ingress, hence air ingress, see here, and post 14). Try removing the wire cover for a ride, so leaving the body open to the atmosphere.

 

[Northwoods Snowman]

Found the problem. As I suspected the cable was sticking. What I found was that the cable coming out of the actuator was kinked pretty hard before running up to the front of the bike. It's mounted sideways under the front seat and at some point when I've been working on the wiring running up along the frame I pushed the cable in too far. I angled the actuator a little and ran the cable outboard of the frame a little (notched the intake panel a little) and then ran it up to the front so it's a nice gradual bend. Put about 1000 miles on it this weekend and it worked MUCH better than before. Not perfect, but it's nothing I'm going to complain about.

 

[SoCalFJR1300]

/If you get tired of messing with that more complicated cruise control you might want to try one of these simple ones.

I don't have one yet but I've heard good things from riders that do have them, and they're only $20.00 so even if it doesn't work to your liking it won't break the bank!

https://www.thecycleguys.com/go-cruise-throttle-assist/

OR......this metal one that's adjustable (don't know who copied who)

I would assume this metal one will last longer but it's also a little over twice the price.

https://www.omni-cruise.com/omni-cruise-1/

Good Luck!

 

[Northwoods Snowman]

Those aren't really cruise controls, just throttle locks. They will not maintain speed in hills. Nor do they release in the case of an emergency.

 

[SoCalFJR1300]

Those aren't really cruise controls, just throttle locks. They will not maintain speed in hills. Nor do they release in the case of an emergency.

True on the hills aspect, but don't they release just like the other cruise controls? You just roll off the throttle don't you?

 

[jayke]

Actually the electonic cruise controls, Audiovox, Rostra etc..will shut themselves off if the rear tire spins for some reason.

A throttle lock might dump you on your ass before your can roll off the throttle.

 

[Northwoods Snowman]

Those aren't really cruise controls, just throttle locks. They will not maintain speed in hills. Nor do they release in the case of an emergency.

True on the hills aspect, but don't they release just like the other cruise controls? You just roll off the throttle don't you?

They won't turn off when braking or if you pull the clutch in. If you have to stop for some reason, or if you crash, those throttle locks won't disengage. My audiovox turns off when I tap a brake or when the engine starts to rev when I pull the clutch in.