Auto Retract disable!

[jmgrif]

I have removed the front cowl of my 08 but am unable to find the windshield disable switch? I would prefer not to remove the retract motor assembly only to find it isn't behind there either? Suggestions?

Mark

 

[rfulcher]

Look for it from the dash side by removing the right panel under the gas guage/clock as described here here

 

[jmgrif]

Look for it from the dash side by removing the right panel under the gas guage/clock as described here here

I have my bike stripped down to almost the same as pictured yet I can seem to find the switch! I must be tired and will look again tomorrow. Thanks for the link, the pictures are a great help.

 

[Fred W]

It may be stuffed up a little behind the gauge cluster or the subframe members that support the cluster. You are looking for the 2 pin connector (not the 6-pin connector) shown in the linked to picture.

 

[wfooshee]

Look for it from the dash side by removing the right panel under the gas guage/clock as described here here

I have my bike stripped down to almost the same as pictured yet I can seem to find the switch! I must be tired and will look again tomorrow. Thanks for the link, the pictures are a great help.

It's not a switch. You just unplug the 2-pin connector.

 

[madmike2]

It's not a switch. You just unplug the 2-pin connector.

On GenI bikes there are 2 two-pin connectors in the same bundle.

You want to disconnect the one that is a wire loop.

FJR Tech article

 

[Yambone]

That connector can be really hard to find, it may not be sitting out there easy to see. Mine was buried in a zip-tied bundle of other wires under Panel C, as mentioned.

 

[jmgrif]

That connector can be really hard to find, it may not be sitting out there easy to see. Mine was buried in a zip-tied bundle of other wires under Panel C, as mentioned.

Is the connector terminated with a closed loop? I have found another smaller 2pin connector but it appears to have wires leading into it and continuing out as well, not just terminating with a loop back to itself?

 

[builderwill]

Yes, it is the connector with the closed loop.

 

[jmgrif]

Yes, it is the connector with the closed loop.

OK I have located the connector!!! I have disconnected the two parts and have confirmed the auto retract feature is disabled, the half with the two black wires leads in a sheathing and is taped further back along the wire loom. When I pull on the connector to remove the looped wire from the sheathing I get a lot of resistance? Is it just a question of removing the tape to free the wire or can I push back the sheathing as far as I can and cut the wire then? Does what I just said make sense? I hope so!

 

[madmike2]

Yes, it is the connector with the closed loop.

OK I have located the connector!!! I have disconnected the two parts and have confirmed the auto retract feature is disabled, the half with the two black wires leads in a sheathing and is taped further back along the wire loom. When I pull on the connector to remove the looped wire from the sheathing I get a lot of resistance? Is it just a question of removing the tape to free the wire or can I push back the sheathing as far as I can and cut the wire then? Does what I just said make sense? I hope so!

The plastic connectors are difficult to pull apart. IIRC, there are 2 locking tabs to be released. After that they pull apart easily. I cut mine and use them as a power source for my relay switched 12V power block.

If you're talking about pulling the looped ends from the connector, why? Just pull the plug and that will disable the auto-retract. If you want to use it as a switchable power lead, snip the loop in half.

 

[jmgrif]

Yes, it is the connector with the closed loop.

OK I have located the connector!!! I have disconnected the two parts and have confirmed the auto retract feature is disabled, the half with the two black wires leads in a sheathing and is taped further back along the wire loom. When I pull on the connector to remove the looped wire from the sheathing I get a lot of resistance? Is it just a question of removing the tape to free the wire or can I push back the sheathing as far as I can and cut the wire then? Does what I just said make sense? I hope so!

The plastic connectors are difficult to pull apart. IIRC, there are 2 locking tabs to be released. After that they pull apart easily. I cut mine and use them as a power source for my relay switched 12V power block.

If you're talking about pulling the looped ends from the connector, why? Just pull the plug and that will disable the auto-retract. If you want to use it as a switchable power lead, snip the loop in half.

Hey Mike thanks for getting back to me. My concern is after pulling the connector apart the end with the two black wires disappears into a sheathing and seems to be wrapped with tape attached to a wire loom? Can I just cut the wire somewhere between the connection and the loom? If it was just a loop to begin with why does it disappear into the loom. I just don't want to cut the wire if it is power for some other device?Mark

 

[puppychow]

Post some pictures so we know which connector/wires you are trying to cut. Advising blindly without knowing which wire exactly you are looking to cut could have disastrous results...

It's best to just pull the connector with the black loop and save that connector in a safe place in case you want to go back to windshield retract. I cringe at cutting stock wiring.

 

[jmgrif]

Post some pictures so we know which connector/wires you are trying to cut. Advising blindly without knowing which wire exactly you are looking to cut could have disastrous results...
It's best to just pull the connector with the black loop and save that connector in a safe place in case you want to go back to windshield retract. I cringe at cutting stock wiring.

Two problems: First my wife is in Portland with our digital camera! Secondly I have never posted pictures on this site before? My camera should be home by Monday night! I should learn how to post pictures before she gets back home so I can do that? I agree that cutting wires is the last thing I want to do? Is the procedure to buy another connector and apply a wire loop to that? So far my info doesn't clearly explain that part of the process?

 

[puppychow]

No the procedure (at least for '05 bikes) is to pull the looped wired connector half from its other half. That's all. If you have found the 2 pin connector with one half of the connector terminating in a looped wire, just separate those two connectors and you are done.

 

[madmike2]

Yep! What puppychow said.....

I never cut any wires I don't have to and since the connector is shielded there are no bare wires to ground out.

You've done your job.

 

[jmgrif]

Yep! What puppychow said.....I never cut any wires I don't have to and since the connector is shielded there are no bare wires to ground out.

You've done your job.

OK here's the deal! I locate the connector. I separate the connector. The end with the two black wires goes into a sheath and returns to a larger bundle of wires which is wrapped with black electrician tape? If I pull on the connector I get resistance beyond a gentle pull? I have removed some of the electricians tape but the wire goes beyond where I have created an open space? If it was just a loop why does it go past this point? I have checked the windshield retract and with the ignition on it works and with the ignition off the motor does not return the gear mechanism back to the bottom location. Does this wire supply some other aspect of the bike with power? I just keep reaching?

Thanks

Mark

 

[rfulcher]

On my 07A I did not find a loop on on either side of the connection. However I didn't look real hard. Just left the connection undone. If it disabled the autoretract and it still goes up and down with the switch don't sweat it.

 

[wfooshee]

It's just a loop. They made it long enough to go into the harness so it doesn't fall on the ground and get lost when you unplug it. (Damn! I want to re-enable that windshield auto-retract. Where did I put that damn loop connector I removed 5 years ago??)

The brain of the windshield drive applies power to one side of that plug. If power returns on the other side (the loop) it retracts the windshield when the key is turned off. If the other side of the loop is dead (unplugged) it does nothing to the windshield height.

It's just a loop. There's nothing to cut, there's nothing to remove. Unplug it. Leave the connectors hanging. Put the bike back together and ride.

The connector that's left (not the loop, the other one) will have 12 volts on it when the key is on (or is it engine running? - I can't remember.) Anyway, that's a good place to get switched power to trigger a relay ofr fuse block for accessories. (Although an easier place to me is any of the blue wires going to the front running lights or the tail lights.)