Autocom Installation Question
- Thread starter Les
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
bramfrank
BramFrank
OK, so this has been hanging out there for an hour or so with no takers.
I've been running Autocom on this and on my last bike - no significant complaints, but the fidelity of the Pro-M1 isn't what I would like it to be. Perhaps I should take some pictures and post them on the Webshots site to illustrate, but here it is for a start:
My control unit is located underseat in the tool shelf, sitting next to my fuse block. The pro-M1 is pretty 'boxy' and is quite long, so it all barely fits with the extra wire lengths stuck there and such. I used the underseat rubber strap to hold the control unit in place.
Power for my unit is taken from my BlueSea fuse block which itself is ignition-controlled, but the Autocom powers off when the master headset is unplugged, so if you aren't doing any other electrical accessories nothing really stops you from wiring direct to the battery - otherwise it is common practice to tap power from the tail light circuit. Cabling to the front (if you need to) is run under the tank and above the insulation.
The headset connecters are snaked out of the underseat location at the grab handle and I have them both tie-wrapped to the left side footpeg holder bracket, with the open connector end facing forward and down so that water will drain out - I found some plastic caps that fit the openings perfectly so when not in use they're pretty well sealed.
FYI the seat is in the low position, I am 5'11" and weigh ~250 and my inseam is 31"
To connect my headset to the connectors I have Autocom's coiled cord extension AND a straight extension - the standard coiled cord is just slightly too short for my taste. so I plug the coiled into the straight to give me the length I want.
As music sources I use an iPod Nano (4 Gig) controlled by an Airclick remote mounted on the left inner cowling with velcro - I tried a 4th Gen 20 Gig unit but hard drives and motorcycles don't mix.
I also have an XM Roady that I can stick into my tank bag when I care to use it. I plug that into the cigarette lighter socket in the glove box when I bring it along and I simply plug the music plug into the roady instead of the iPod - however Autocom does offer a box that allows you to plug both into the music input at the same time.
My GPS is a Garmin 276c. It has speaker level outputs on the wired cable. I took a cable and wired it to the Garmin through a 500 Ohm potentiometer to let me reduce the level feeding the Autocom. The other end of the cable is plugged into an isolated 2 input adapter that Autocom sells. The other port is pluged into my cell phone (I carry a Nokia 3595 on the bike) via Nokia's headset adapter - available from Autocom, of course. Autocom sells a Bluetooth setup, but then so does Starcom - I'm told that the Starcom adapter works fine with the Autocom and is less expensive if that's the route you want to go.
As it happens I also have a GMRS radio and Autocom's handlebar PTT cable that lets me plug the Kenwood TK-3101 into the unit. But I've never been able to convince my riding buddies to equip themselves so I haven't installed any of that stuff on the FJR yet.
As a final component, I find that there's way too much wind noise on my bike. So I have a par of WestOne UM-2 two-way in-ear isolating earphones. They work GREAT. They plug into the system using an adapter - available from Autocom.
The downside: There's a fair amount of money invested in the system. And the fidelity (and in particular the high frequency response) isn't at all good when you can plug into the music source directly and compare the performance. The Pro-M1 sounds downright muffled compared to a direct plug-in.
The upside - I can sing along with my music. Converse with my daughter or son if they're riding pilion and I can hear the GPS announcements. I don't often use the cellphone while riding.
Part - Description
1179 - 7 pin straight headset extension
1183 - 7 pin coiled headset extension
1187 - In-ear headphone adapter
1256 - Nokia 3595 adapter
1262/1263 - Bluetooth adapter components
1294 - 2.5 mm mono interface cable for the SP3 & Garmin 2000 series units
1282 - Adapter to share GPS and Phone in a single aux input
1317 - Dual music input adapter (one input is isolated)
There's more - I've left out the 2-way bits and the small music and phone cables - the latter two are usually included when you buy a system.
Once again though I found the speakers to sound pretty good, but my in-ear headphones are muffled (but they DO keep the wind noise at bay). When using in-ear phones you do not want to enable the ambient noise feature.
Topgear, the North American distributors of Autocom have provided decent technical support and part number recommendations over the years. They have an 800 number, 1-888-851-GEAR. They'll sell you parts too, but you can buy for less elsewhere.
Chad Olsen at Adventure Motostuff in Carson City, NV is a great resource for Autocom (and other) bits. He can be reached at <[email protected]> or by phone at 1-775-841-3777. Tell him Bram Frank from the Concours Owners Group sent you so he knows where the referral originated.
I've been running Autocom on this and on my last bike - no significant complaints, but the fidelity of the Pro-M1 isn't what I would like it to be. Perhaps I should take some pictures and post them on the Webshots site to illustrate, but here it is for a start:
My control unit is located underseat in the tool shelf, sitting next to my fuse block. The pro-M1 is pretty 'boxy' and is quite long, so it all barely fits with the extra wire lengths stuck there and such. I used the underseat rubber strap to hold the control unit in place.
Power for my unit is taken from my BlueSea fuse block which itself is ignition-controlled, but the Autocom powers off when the master headset is unplugged, so if you aren't doing any other electrical accessories nothing really stops you from wiring direct to the battery - otherwise it is common practice to tap power from the tail light circuit. Cabling to the front (if you need to) is run under the tank and above the insulation.
The headset connecters are snaked out of the underseat location at the grab handle and I have them both tie-wrapped to the left side footpeg holder bracket, with the open connector end facing forward and down so that water will drain out - I found some plastic caps that fit the openings perfectly so when not in use they're pretty well sealed.
FYI the seat is in the low position, I am 5'11" and weigh ~250 and my inseam is 31"
To connect my headset to the connectors I have Autocom's coiled cord extension AND a straight extension - the standard coiled cord is just slightly too short for my taste. so I plug the coiled into the straight to give me the length I want.
As music sources I use an iPod Nano (4 Gig) controlled by an Airclick remote mounted on the left inner cowling with velcro - I tried a 4th Gen 20 Gig unit but hard drives and motorcycles don't mix.
I also have an XM Roady that I can stick into my tank bag when I care to use it. I plug that into the cigarette lighter socket in the glove box when I bring it along and I simply plug the music plug into the roady instead of the iPod - however Autocom does offer a box that allows you to plug both into the music input at the same time.
My GPS is a Garmin 276c. It has speaker level outputs on the wired cable. I took a cable and wired it to the Garmin through a 500 Ohm potentiometer to let me reduce the level feeding the Autocom. The other end of the cable is plugged into an isolated 2 input adapter that Autocom sells. The other port is pluged into my cell phone (I carry a Nokia 3595 on the bike) via Nokia's headset adapter - available from Autocom, of course. Autocom sells a Bluetooth setup, but then so does Starcom - I'm told that the Starcom adapter works fine with the Autocom and is less expensive if that's the route you want to go.
As it happens I also have a GMRS radio and Autocom's handlebar PTT cable that lets me plug the Kenwood TK-3101 into the unit. But I've never been able to convince my riding buddies to equip themselves so I haven't installed any of that stuff on the FJR yet.
As a final component, I find that there's way too much wind noise on my bike. So I have a par of WestOne UM-2 two-way in-ear isolating earphones. They work GREAT. They plug into the system using an adapter - available from Autocom.
The downside: There's a fair amount of money invested in the system. And the fidelity (and in particular the high frequency response) isn't at all good when you can plug into the music source directly and compare the performance. The Pro-M1 sounds downright muffled compared to a direct plug-in.
The upside - I can sing along with my music. Converse with my daughter or son if they're riding pilion and I can hear the GPS announcements. I don't often use the cellphone while riding.
Part - Description
1179 - 7 pin straight headset extension
1183 - 7 pin coiled headset extension
1187 - In-ear headphone adapter
1256 - Nokia 3595 adapter
1262/1263 - Bluetooth adapter components
1294 - 2.5 mm mono interface cable for the SP3 & Garmin 2000 series units
1282 - Adapter to share GPS and Phone in a single aux input
1317 - Dual music input adapter (one input is isolated)
There's more - I've left out the 2-way bits and the small music and phone cables - the latter two are usually included when you buy a system.
Once again though I found the speakers to sound pretty good, but my in-ear headphones are muffled (but they DO keep the wind noise at bay). When using in-ear phones you do not want to enable the ambient noise feature.
Topgear, the North American distributors of Autocom have provided decent technical support and part number recommendations over the years. They have an 800 number, 1-888-851-GEAR. They'll sell you parts too, but you can buy for less elsewhere.
Chad Olsen at Adventure Motostuff in Carson City, NV is a great resource for Autocom (and other) bits. He can be reached at <[email protected]> or by phone at 1-775-841-3777. Tell him Bram Frank from the Concours Owners Group sent you so he knows where the referral originated.
Last edited by a moderator:
skyway
Well-known member
If you really are serious about the Autocom system, which has been working very well for both me and my passenger, I suggest you do the following.
Decide if you want a tankbag installation (advantages for use with multiple bikes) or an under seat install?
I know of one person who has done so many different install variations on the Autocom and accessories, who also offers great discounts on all of the products he offers and most importantly knows how to integrate everything first time out. His name is Kieth Goudlock and he can be reached at 918 446 2245.
He will put your mind at ease and get you all hooked up.
Decide if you want a tankbag installation (advantages for use with multiple bikes) or an under seat install?
I know of one person who has done so many different install variations on the Autocom and accessories, who also offers great discounts on all of the products he offers and most importantly knows how to integrate everything first time out. His name is Kieth Goudlock and he can be reached at 918 446 2245.
He will put your mind at ease and get you all hooked up.
huchieglide
Well-known member
A forum member that I met at wfo had some communication equipment installed while there and seemed pleased. He gave me their business card, Adventure Motostuff. They are near you in Carson City. Phone is
775-841-3777. May be worth a phone call.
775-841-3777. May be worth a phone call.
MrWizard
Well-known member
Les,
bramfrank gave a good description of the hardware and installation of a typical system.
I recently did an Autocom AVI install on my '06. I use a tank bag to hold (for easy access) the Mp3 player and cel phone. The Kenwood FRS and Autocom is mounted under the seat. I should add, this system is a bit pricy but I am very pleased with it, very good quality.
Follow this link for some pics: Clicky
bramfrank, thanks for the indepth explanation, any pics?
I have my autocom mounted in the tankbag for multiple bike installs.
Jumble of wires in and coming out of the tankbag.
I also use a boosteroo and in-line radioshack volume control for the XM or
MP3. Also have an escort 8500.
Lithium batteries, 2 for the boosteroo and a nine volt for the M1, batteries usually last a season.
The best equipment I bought was "now hear this" https://www.plugup.com
custom made in-ear speakers https://www.bikes-n-spikes.org/acc/ear/ear.html.
I had alot of issues with the volume on the M1 before purchasing the
customer speakers.
I have my autocom mounted in the tankbag for multiple bike installs.
Jumble of wires in and coming out of the tankbag.
I also use a boosteroo and in-line radioshack volume control for the XM or
MP3. Also have an escort 8500.
Lithium batteries, 2 for the boosteroo and a nine volt for the M1, batteries usually last a season.
The best equipment I bought was "now hear this" https://www.plugup.com
custom made in-ear speakers https://www.bikes-n-spikes.org/acc/ear/ear.html.
I had alot of issues with the volume on the M1 before purchasing the
customer speakers.
Similar threads
