Auxiluary Lighting Question

[daddyman]

Hello, everyone!

OK, here's my question:

I'm installing a light kit with a wiring harness. Looks pretty straightforward overall, but calls for a connection of a wire to a positive source, suggesting a parking light, to be used to power the on/off switch.

Well, since there is no parking light, I think they are looking for a lead which is only powered when the engine is running--or at least when the ignition switch is on, but which receives no power otherwise.

Suggestions?

Tail-light wire, perhaps?

Thanks in advance.

 

[2WheelTiger]

Hello, everyone!
OK, here's my question:

I'm installing a light kit with a wiring harness. Looks pretty straightforward overall, but calls for a connection of a wire to a positive source, suggesting a parking light, to be used to power the on/off switch.

Well, since there is no parking light, I think they are looking for a lead which is only powered when the engine is running--or at least when the ignition switch is on, but which receives no power otherwise.

Suggestions?

Tail-light wire, perhaps?

Thanks in advance.

Does the aftermarket light system have a relay? If so, then you can get away with a low amperage circuit to power the switch (which will power the relay).

Four sources are:

1) The running lights up front (parking lamps)

2) Tail lamp circuit.

3) Headlamp circuit.

4) Cigarette lighter circuit.

 

[madmike2]

Does the aftermarket light system have a relay? If so, then you can get away with a low amperage circuit to power the switch (which will power the relay).
Four sources are:

1) The running lights up front (parking lamps)

2) Tail lamp circuit.

3) Headlamp circuit.

4) Cigarette lighter circuit.

Yep! I have mine sourced from the windshield retract wire...but then I have disabled my auto retract so the wire is available for other uses.

 

[Bustanut joker]

Yep! I have mine sourced from the man sasuage retract wire...but then I'm disabled, my auto retract wanker is available for other uses.

Ah fer shitsakes Mike :blink:

Whatareya tryin to say :lol:

Damn west coasters anyways!

:jester:

 

[madmike2]

Whatareya tryin to say :lol:
Damn west coasters anyways!

:jester:

Barry, at my "stage of maturity", my wanker is always in auto-retract! :dribble:

I'm just glad the plumbing still works as well as it does.

 

[squeezer]

Although Mike's plumbing is always a good topic ( :lol: ) I'm moving back to the original question...

The wiring for the left front running light wire is relatively easy to get to and play with. That's where I patched in the relay for my aux lights. For main power, I went straight to the battery.

 

[daddyman]

Thanks for the info and suggestions.

I believe I have a project for tomorrow!

 

[madmike2]

Although Mike's plumbing is always a good topic ( :lol: ) I'm moving back to the original question...
The wiring for the left front running light wire is relatively easy to get to and play with. That's where I patched in the relay for my aux lights. For main power, I went straight to the battery.

I ran the wiring for my main power from the battery through a relay, that way everything is switched and controlled. From the relay I went to a fuse block and that distributes separate circuits to my electrical add-ons.

IF you intend to use the parking/running lights as your source for switched power, may I suggest you have an easy connector in place (an SAE type would work just fine) so the fairing side panel can be removed without "un-doing" your wiring, simply by unplugging what you have previously installed.

AND, you'll want to install a grounding barrier strip of some type. I found a heaby duty piece of aluminum, that looks like some kind of telephone lug, that has a main "hole" with a set screw that will take a #8 or larger wire (that I use as the main ground to the battery) and several auxilary holes (with set screws) that I use to ground all of my electronics so they are then grounded to the battery and not the frame.

For more ideas on "barrier strips" look here: FJR Tech, and www.bikes-n-spikes.org. These are two very helpful websites for reference when doing any modifications to your bike.

 

[theraphosa]

Although Mike's plumbing is always a good topic ( :lol: ) I'm moving back to the original question...
The wiring for the left front running light wire is relatively easy to get to and play with. That's where I patched in the relay for my aux lights. For main power, I went straight to the battery.

I ran the wiring for my main power from the battery through a relay, that way everything is switched and controlled. From the relay I went to a fuse block and that distributes separate circuits to my electrical add-ons.

IF you intend to use the parking/running lights as your source for switched power, may I suggest you have an easy connector in place (an SAE type would work just fine) so the fairing side panel can be removed without "un-doing" your wiring, simply by unplugging what you have previously installed.

AND, you'll want to install a grounding barrier strip of some type. I found a heaby duty piece of aluminum, that looks like some kind of telephone lug, that has a main "hole" with a set screw that will take a #8 or larger wire (that I use as the main ground to the battery) and several auxilary holes (with set screws) that I use to ground all of my electronics so they are then grounded to the battery and not the frame.

For more ideas on "barrier strips" look here: FJR Tech, and www.bikes-n-spikes.org. These are two very helpful websites for reference when doing any modifications to your bike.

I haven't gotten around to taking the plastic off my fjr yet, but when I do, I plan to install a Fuse Block for my accessories.

The one I'm looking to add is this one offered by Murph's Kits. It's used by a lot of Connie owners, I'm thinking it should work on the fjr...

Part of the description:

This Fuse Block kit requires no cutting or stripping of your stock wires, it's a true plug and play installation. Well, you will have to disconnect the battery terminals.
The integrated power relay energizes the fuse block when your ignition key is turned on, and powers it off when you shut her down. This means you can leave all your accessory loads on, and not worry about your motorcycle battery being dead when you return. Cool, huh?

# 12 gauge feed wires from the battery and ground.

# Master fused (30 amp).

# Room for six auxiliary fuses (and a selection of them is included too!)

# 30 amp total capacity, 15 amps each circuit.

# Ground lugs are right next to the fuse block, everything is under the side cover.

# SS screws and nuts, zip ties, fuses, clamps, and instructions.

Bob

 

[Capt. Bob]

I remember seeing this a while back but since I had already completed my install...... well anyway.

This might interest you since it's an "all in one" deal Clicky

Use link in first post.

 

[Kieth]

You might take a look at a centech power distribution center, they are nice looking functional and will keep one from jury rigging the wiring on the bike........... Kieth If you set the centech up with a relay turning everything on you will not have to tap into the bikes wiring again.

 

[Bounce]

I use a relay.

Feed main power from either the battery or a power distribution block (which is fed from the battery).

https://www.fjr-tips.org/mods/pdb/pdb.html

Feed the energizing circuit from a low-load switched source like the windshield auto-retract jumper.

https://www.fjr-tips.org/mods/shield/shield.html