AVCC issues

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^^^ correct

Did not "see" the resistor as it was under the sticker....

*******... :)

 
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Note that DIP switch position 7 should be OFF not ON. When position 7 is set for ON it tells the AVCC that the ignition coils use a point breaker system. When position 7 is set for OFF it tells the AVCC that the ignition coils use an ECU generated signal, which the FJR uses. Setting the switch to ON can cause the cruse to have strange issues including surprise shut-downs after it has been on for >10 minutes.

 
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yes as suggested by FJRshopguy.What color / where is the ABS speed signal wire?
This is at the ecu connector

Speed_wire.jpg


 
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Note that DIP switch position 7 should be OFF not ON. When position 7 is set for ON it tells the AVCC that the ignition coils use a point breaker system. When position 7 is set for OFF it tells the AVCC that the ignition coils use an ECU generated signal, which the FJR uses. Setting the switch to ON can cause the cruse to have strange issues including surprise shut-downs after it has been on for >10 minutes.
I am having this very issue you describe... After severl minutes on, the cruise will not hold the set speed more than a couple seconds.

Off to the garage to tinker.

Thanks for the advice!

 
So after a 300 mile ride [Killington Classic-where I ogled a '14 with cruise control] and a chronic numb right hand, I think I'll throw on a AVCC..
apparently there is the latest, greatest model available.....should I go for the new or old ?? wonder how the actuator works-no vacuum? I'm looking for opinions here !

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Audiovox-UltraCruise-II-Cruise-Control-Kit-Rostra-Stalk-/130587364416?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e679d0c40&vxp=mtr
It's not necessarily the "latest and greatest", it is simply an all-electronic version ... probably also made by Rostra and very similar to their own branded item.

It replaces the vacuum servo with an electronic servo. There is no reason why it should not work as well as the regular units, but I too would like to hear the opinions of those who have used them.

The vacuum version we know works well.

 
Help here plz..

I'm in the process of doping out a Rosta install

Which ECU wire is the tach signal....on my connector #1 wire is orange...#2 wire is grey/red stripe.

info elsewhere says orange is the tach signal but has it in position #2 ??

I'm using #18-white/yellow stripe/green dot for VSS signal..correct?

 
For the tach signal use either the Orange or Grey/Red stripe wire, they are essentially the same. One wire signals the coils for cyls #1 & #3, the other signals the coils for Cyls #2 & #4.

The White/Gold (yellow) wire can be used for the VSS signal. This wire actually takes the wheel pickup signal from the ABS ECU and connects to the main ECU. Treat this wire connection with care.

 
For the tach signal use either the Orange or Grey/Red stripe wire, they are essentially the same. One wire signals the coils for cyls #1 & #3, the other signals the coils for Cyls #2 & #4.
The White/Gold (yellow) wire can be used for the VSS signal. This wire actually takes the wheel pickup signal from the ABS ECU and connects to the main ECU. Treat this wire connection with care.
many thanx for that...

on the white/gold ABS signal wire I simply used a posilock tap rather than stripping insulation and soldering..these things seem to work reliably..same for the tach wire..

diagnostic check says all is well..

I redid and eliminated the dmn beaded chain connection which balled up and jammed under quick throttle motion...instead used a direct connection between the throttle tang and the servo cable...the cable simply slides about two inches back into the servo when the throttle is twisted, no need for the slack the chain provides....

I needed to use a relay for the brake wire hookup. Not sure where 5 volts in that circuit comes from ?? no LED's but there is a BackOff module..

 
FWIW

Seems to be the norm to find enough current in the yellow brake wire to keep the cruise from engaging...I have a BackOff module installed in the yellow brake wire.I checked for juice on the supply side [upstream] of the BackOff and got 4.5 volts. Just for laughs I checked on the load side and got zero volts-nada. Hooked the Rosta wire downstream of the BackOff module and it works perfectly. Just as seamless as the wifey's Buick. Disengages as soon as the brakes are touched. Seems the BackOff eats the current somehow..? No need for a relay..

Anyhew-can't wait to see how it works at about @110-just for the benefit of you Genlll guys..

 
When the cruise stops working in a few months, the first (and probably only) thing to do is to replace those posi-loc taps with soldered connections.

 
When the cruise stops working in a few months, the first (and probably only) thing to do is to replace those posi-loc taps with soldered connections.
Certainly possible...I do have several farkles [backOff-Clearwater lights, Escort hard wire, etc.] that have been wired with posi-loc and have been trouble free for 5 years or more..but I'll file this away for future reference... I don't like hacking into stock wiring and PL are minimally invasive..

 
Well, they have the ones that are supposedly weatherproof, and they have the ones that are meant for use under a car dash. Guess which ones I used originally. before having to troubleshoot the occasional CC failure? :)

 
to answer my own question in post #35...The Back Off module has it's own ground which apparently bleeds off any current downstream of the BackOff...The cruise will work if it's brake wire is attached there..The Backoff is slightly simpler to wire than a relay plus the benefit of having a brake light flasher..

 
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