Bar Snake

[NC_Yank]

Has anyone had any success using Bar Snake to stop handle bar vibrations.

I have installed heavier bar ends but no avail. I have read about doing a TB sync but

this have is not full proof....plus I suspect it is more expensive then spending $30.00

for the bar snake.

The vibration is only coming on the throttle side.........other then that its a great bike.

NC_Yank

 

[Bike Effects]

Has anyone had any success using Bar Snake to stop handle bar vibrations.I have installed heavier bar ends but no avail. I have read about doing a TB sync but

this have is not full proof....plus I suspect it is more expensive then spending $30.00

for the bar snake.

The vibration is only coming on the throttle side.........other then that its a great bike.

NC_Yank

It's possible that the greater vibrations that you feel in the throttle are partly due to holding the throttle hand more tightly than the left hand. The FJR is known to have excessively strong throttle return springs, and many owners, me included, have disconnected one of the springs to lessen the effort to hold the throttle open. Have you disconnected one of the springs yet?

 

[professor]

I'll definately agree with Squadron leader. I disconnected the main spring on my bike a couple of years ago and it made all the difference in the world, I was actually considering getting rid of this FABULOUS machine because of the stiff throttle and resulting aching right hand. MIKE

 

[Bustanut joker]

Vibration? :huh: Bar Snake? :huh: Did I miss sumpin? yer talkin 'bout a fejeer right?

:jester:

 

[ohiofjr]

if I did any amout of interstate riding I would find the tingle at 70mph to be bothersome but since I don't its not noticeable.

i would speculate that the guys out on the four lanes are the only ones bothered by it.

The best fix seems to come from synchronizing the throttle bodies at around 4,000 rpm

 

[NC_Yank]

[quote

It's possible that the greater vibrations that you feel in the throttle are partly due to holding the throttle hand more tightly than the left hand. The FJR is known to have excessively strong throttle return springs, and many owners, me included, have disconnected one of the springs to lessen the effort to hold the throttle open. Have you disconnected one of the springs yet?

[/ouote]

I don't think its from holding the throttle handle bar to tight.

When I engage the cruise control you can still significantly feel the vibration coming through the brake lever.

Im just amazed that its coming only on the right handle bar.

I will probably end up buying the bar snake and then go from there.

NC_Yank

 

[madmike2]

I know this sounds simple, but have you checked the torque on the engine mounts (especially if you've added sliders) and the handle bar-triple tree bolts? If something is loose it would transfer harmonic vibrations easier.

That being said, I changed my handgrips to the BMW style per the FJR Tech article. Let us know what you find and how you solve it.

 

[escapefjrtist]

The best fix seems to come from synchronizing the throttle bodies at around 4,000 rpm

+1

This fix almost eliminated the tingle in the brake lever on my '04. Having ridden a couple other FJR's, it seems each one has a distinct personality, some are smooth others not...on the other hand, in the top cog at 5000, mine is glass smooth...

--G

 

[JimV]

Umm, how does one use a bar snake with clip on bars?

I don't think that lopping off a few inches and stuffing it into the handgrip would make a damned bit of difference. IMHO, you'd be better off doing one of the things recommended above or getting heavy barend weights if there's too much buzz for ye.

I know of people who have used the bar snake and liked it but only with the cruiser style "pipe" handlebars for which they were designed.

Cheers,

Jim

 

[nusman68]

+1 w/Jim V.

I installed a Barsnake inside the tubular bars on my 82 Suzuki GS1100L; worked great. I do not see how it could offer a significant improvement on the FJR however, due to the obvious design differences of the bars; if you were to attempt it, though, I would go with the liquid version (in case you didn't see it, Barsnake offers a liquid version you pour in one end of the bars; obviously you plug the opposite end if needed) to maximize the 'contact' surface area. As others have mentioned do the TB sync first; takes 15 mins. and it is not difficult to do. You will recoup the cost of a sync tool the first time you do it- and have the satisfaction of doing it yourself; plenty of help at Warchilds FJRTech site. You might also try some gel filled gloves; many have reported positive results.

 

[kerhrhr]

Hey NC,

I had vibration in my handle bars, too, and yes it got annoying. I read several different posts here, and tried two things that made it go away permanently. As madmike2 said, check the torque on your engine mount bolts to the frame. Mine from the factory were about 30 pounds lighter than they should have been. Just that alone made a world of difference. Very shortly after that, I installed the Throttlemeister bar end weights/cruise control, and that knocked down any residual vibration that I had after torqueing the engine bolts. I need to do that throttle spring mod that has been mentioned here, too. Just for the additional comfort. I don't believe it would alleviate any vibration. That just doesn't make any sense to me. Anyway, good luck.

Aaron

 

[black mamba]

Assuming you have no major bolts that need re-torqued, the most effective means of dealing with bar vibes, in my opinion, is to perform a good throttle body sync....as others have suggested. Frankly, bar end weights have proved absolutely worthless in my case but others have reported that they have helped. I've tried every grip known to man, I believe, and I have gone back to the stock grip with grip puppies placed over them. Gel gloves have also helped. I don't have a vibe problem any more.

 

[NC_Yank]

I know this sounds simple, but have you checked the torque on the engine mounts (especially if you've added sliders) and the handle bar-triple tree bolts?  If something is loose it would transfer harmonic vibrations easier.That being said, I changed my handgrips to the BMW style per the FJR Tech article.  Let us know what you find and how you solve it.

I haven't added any risers.........barends and handgrips yes.....

I will try adjusting the torque this weekend.

Do you know off the top of your head what the pounds should be?

And yes, I was figuring if all else fails then get the liquid bar snake and then the TB sync.

NC

 

[NC_Yank]

I know this sounds simple, but have you checked the torque on the engine mounts (especially if you've added sliders)............... Let us know what you find and how you solve it.

That did the trick..................I just got back from riding on the highway for about an hour at about 80 - 90 mph (flowing with traffic) and my hands were fine.

I torqued the bolts from 35 lbs to about 55 lbs..........thanks for the tip.

NC_Yank

 

[bikerskier]

The last bar snake I checked out suggested I buy her a drink. After several, she wanted me to touch her tuning knobs and so I said "Come in, Berlin" and "Hello Tokyo" a few times which she seemed to enjoy immensely. I am pretty sure I felt vibration in both knobs tho, and I now feel compelled to look her up and see if she has had this strange malady corrected.

 

[FJRandy]

You're not going to get rid of the throttle side vibes completely no matter what you do. Well, unless you weld the throttle tube to the bar.

Most of the vibes on the right side are caused by the throttle tube vibrating with the rpms. If you can somehow eliminate that problem, you're half way there.

 

[NC_Yank]

Hey FJRandy,

MadMike's advices worked...........I simply torqued the engine mounts bolts to about 55 lbs +.........no significant vibes that cause my hand to go numb.

Obviously it may not work for all but it worked for mine and Im happy.



NC_Yank

 

[Fastalk]

I used the liquid bar snake in a Sportster that I had. It worked well cool stuff, but the bars on the FJR I thought were soild. I'm going to try the bar ends. It seems to be the best solution.

 

[palerider]

I used the liquid bar snake in a Sportster that I had. It worked well cool stuff, but the bars on the FJR I thought were soild. I'm going to try the bar ends. It seems to be the best solution.

You need to hollow them out first.