Best Adhesive for Sidecase Protector

[jmdaniel]

I just got my sidecase lid back from the paint shop, and need to reapply the rubber sidecase protector. Any suggestions on the best adhesive? I'm leaning toward picking up a tube of this:

 

[RossKean]

Goop is good.

3M Automotive trim tape.

Automotive weatherstripping adhesive.

These all adhere well and remain flexible when cured.

RTV silicone might be OK as well but it takes longer to set up.

 

[BkerChuck]

+1 on the 3M weatherstrip adhesive.

Friend owns an auto body shop and he's the one who told me to use it.

 

[Mad German]

VHB 3M tape. It's what auto body shops use.

 

[RossKean]

The advantage of the (3M) tape over the weatherstripping adhesive or the GOOP is the fact that it is a double-sided tape product that adheres instantly and nearly permanently as long as the mating surfaces are clean and degreased. It is purpose made for that exact application.

The other products require that you hold, weight or tape the piece until the adhesive sets up.

 

[art miller]

Any reason you need to have them on the side cases? I removed mine the day my new bike got home. Same for the reflectors on the forks. That thing stuck to the side fairings is also gone. Now the spectators at gas stations and rest areas ask me how I like my BMW.

 

[jmdaniel]

Any reason you need to have them on the side cases? I removed mine the day my new bike got home. Same for the reflectors on the forks. That thing stuck to the side fairings is also gone. Now the spectators at gas stations and rest areas ask me how I like my BMW.

I think you're referring to the reflectors that are on the side cases, I'm talking about the rubber piece that has the word Yamaha in the middle of it. The reflectors come from Yamaha with an adhesive backing already, just peel off the mask and stick them on. The rubber piece comes from Yamaha with no adhesive at all.

 

[jmdaniel]

Thanks all for the responses. I think I may try the Goop over the 3M adhesive for one reason only, and that is that it dries clear, while the 3M is black. For those that mentioned the tape, there are some curves on this piece that may require cutting of the tape while laying down, so as to not have it bunched up.

 

[RossKean]

The tape is good on a curved surface but MIGHT be a problem on a sharp compound curved structure (don't think you have those). The Goop should work but make sure it doesn't attack the paint before you try it. The stuff contains some aggressive solvents.

 

[jmdaniel]

The tape is good on a curved surface but MIGHT be a problem on a sharp compound curved structure (don't think you have those). The Goop should work but make sure it doesn't attack the paint before you try it. The stuff contains some aggressive solvents.

Thanks. I dropped a note to Garauld as well, to see what he uses when he applies them.

 

[garauld]

As I replied to the OP, I use either clear or black RTV. You do not want to use anything with a solvent as it may affect the nice paint.

 

[08FJR4ME]

FYI, Goop does not dry clear. it becomes light brown slightly hazy goop. I use it all the time on the floor boards. It does bond well but does have somewhat of a stretchiness to it after drying.

My 2 cents,

Dave

 

[jmdaniel]

As I replied to the OP, I use either clear or black RTV. You do not want to use anything with a solvent as it may affect the nice paint.

Gary has spoken, and clear RTV it is! Thanks!

 

[RoadRunner244]

I need to have my side case lid repaired/painted. The case was deeply scratched in parking lot domino, hard tip over incident...the rubber protector strip was destroyed as the bike bounced and slid a bit. Hard to say in this case if the rubber strip helped prevent further damage. Or, maybe in a more "delicate" drop it might have prevented any marring of the case. I tend to think the rubber strip may be to prevent scrapes/scratches in close maneuver situations or such as when pulling into gas pump and scrubbing up against a steel/concrete safety pylon pump guard or some such circumstance. Who knows.

BTW, do you just drill out the rivets to remove the case lid? Just curious, is it not just as easy to repair and paint with the lid left on the case?

 

[garauld]

It's probably easier to pry back the small covers holding the hinge pins in and then popping out the pins. The covers can be pushed back in place later.

The hinge rivets are not too common; 5/32 dia x medium grip, aluminum body, steel mandrel. You would then need to remove the rivet bodies from the steel backing plates which are tricky to remove and reinsert into the lid.

 

[RoadRunner244]

Garauld, thanks so much for that tip!!! You saved me getting into a big mess...one of those simple, quick jobs gone mad!

 

[jmdaniel]

Garauld, thanks so much for that tip!!! You saved me getting into a big mess...one of those simple, quick jobs gone mad!

Trust me, bending those little tabs back isn't easy either...

 

[Fred W]

It may be too late, but here is what I would use. It is made for that exact job. Goes on clear and dries clear.

3M 03601 Plastic Emblem and Trim Adhesive

 

[Viper Pilot]

What Fred said I strongly second. Using RTV or any other silicone based product could create problems later for you if you decide you want to use another non silicone product. Silicone products will leave a residue behind, after you think you have removed it, that impedes bonding of other products. It may sound like an easy product to use (just grab the tube, squeeze it out and slap the thing together) but beware. Use the right thing and you will be much more satisfied!