Bleeding ABS

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brucen

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I want to bleed the brakes on my 06 FJR. It has ABS. The bleeding is no problem, but I want to cycle the ABS system to get all the old fluid out. Can someone tell me where the test connectors that are used to activate the system are? Which pins do I need to short to cause the system to cycle?

I suppose I could find some gravel & try locking up the brakes, but this seems safer.

 
There are four wires in both the Gen I & Gen II ABS test connector. The "ABS TEST COUPLER" simply consists of a jumper wire that shorts the Sky Blue wire to the Black wire to actuate the ABS solenoid and two other wires that are just used for ABS voltage testing with a standard volt meter. There is a convoluted sequence between the ignition key and brake levers to activate the pump. You will displace 60CCs (3.7 ci) of fluid through the ABS hydraulic unit, it's all in the FSM. The ABS connector is under panel D, near the coils. The connector is tied to the frame and covered with a cap.

On road ABS activation will short cycle the ABS system whereas the 'test' will activate the ABS long enough to do a full purge.

I believe the general consensus is to just let it be.

 
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I just bled/changed fluid on my 05 ABS. 2nd time and neither time did I try and activate the ABS. No problems. I agree with ionbeam on letting it be.

 
There are four wires in both the Gen I & Gen II ABS test connector. The "ABS TEST COUPLER" simply consists of a jumper wire that shorts the Sky Blue wire to the Black wire to actuate the ABS solenoid and two other wires that are just used for ABS voltage testing with a standard volt meter. There is a convoluted sequence between the ignition key and brake levers to activate the pump. You will displace 60CCs (3.7 ci) of fluid through the ABS hydraulic unit, it's all in the FSM. The ABS connector is under panel D, near the coils. The connector is tied to the frame and covered with a cap.
On road ABS activation will short cycle the ABS system whereas the 'test' will activate the ABS long enough to do a full purge.

I believe the general consensus is to just let it be.
Alan,

Do you know off hand what the total volume of fluid in the system is?

In other words, what percentage of the total volume does that 60 cc's equate to?

Obviously, a total purge would be desireable if it wasn't too much of a PITA.

OTOH, if we are talking a minor percentage and the ABS activation is a PITA, then just changing the fluid bi-annually would be the best.

 
I bled the entire system on my 07' when I replaced the entire brake line system to stainless steel braided type. Pulling fluid through the ABS module is not difficult but only if you have the right equipment. I have a strong vacuum pump that runs off of my air compressor and a vacuum reservior in between.

I would imagine to completely purge the system would take at least a quart of fluid, for me to bleed the system affter the brake line change out took 2 quarts.

 
I bled the entire system on my 07' when I replaced the entire brake line system to stainless steel braided type. Pulling fluid through the ABS module is not difficult but only if you have the right equipment. I have a strong vacuum pump that runs off of my air compressor and a vacuum reservior in between.
I would imagine to completely purge the system would take at least a quart of fluid, for me to bleed the system affter the brake line change out took 2 quarts.

2 quarts??? Why?

 
I bled the entire system on my 07' when I replaced the entire brake line system to stainless steel braided type. Pulling fluid through the ABS module is not difficult but only if you have the right equipment. I have a strong vacuum pump that runs off of my air compressor and a vacuum reservior in between.
I would imagine to completely purge the system would take at least a quart of fluid, for me to bleed the system affter the brake line change out took 2 quarts.

2 quarts??? Why?

Probably overkill, and my tendency to anal retentive about my FJR.

I could have recycled the fluid to continue purging the system but I didn't want to take any chances as the vacuum reservior isn't pefectly clean.

 
I bled the entire system on my 07' when I replaced the entire brake line system to stainless steel braided type. Pulling fluid through the ABS module is not difficult but only if you have the right equipment. I have a strong vacuum pump that runs off of my air compressor and a vacuum reservior in between.
I would imagine to completely purge the system would take at least a quart of fluid, for me to bleed the system affter the brake line change out took 2 quarts.
I just wrapped up my line swapped as you did and pulled fluid using a Mity-Vac, compressed air operated vacuum pump. Pulled about 1.2 quart of new fluid, starting with the front calipers then rear.

Everything feels good but I haven't test ridden yet. Is it safe to assume that there's fluid in all lines?

 
I bled the entire system on my 07' when I replaced the entire brake line system to stainless steel braided type. Pulling fluid through the ABS module is not difficult but only if you have the right equipment. I have a strong vacuum pump that runs off of my air compressor and a vacuum reservior in between.
I would imagine to completely purge the system would take at least a quart of fluid, for me to bleed the system affter the brake line change out took 2 quarts.
I just wrapped up my line swapped as you did and pulled fluid using a Mity-Vac, compressed air operated vacuum pump. Pulled about 1.2 quart of new fluid, starting with the front calipers then rear.

Everything feels good but I haven't test ridden yet. Is it safe to assume that there's fluid in all lines?
Huh? You pulled 1.2 Quarts of fluid through each circuit? Why? There's only a few ounces in each circuit, AFAIK.

 
When I changed the fluid in my '05, I sucked the old stuff out of the master cylinder and used the mity-vac until I got clear fluid. And I have since gone to a parking lot and activated the ABS.

No problem. And considerably less than 2 quarts...or even 1 quart...but I didn't measure.

 
I bled the entire system on my 07' when I replaced the entire brake line system to stainless steel braided type. Pulling fluid through the ABS module is not difficult but only if you have the right equipment. I have a strong vacuum pump that runs off of my air compressor and a vacuum reservior in between.
I would imagine to completely purge the system would take at least a quart of fluid, for me to bleed the system affter the brake line change out took 2 quarts.
I just wrapped up my line swapped as you did and pulled fluid using a Mity-Vac, compressed air operated vacuum pump. Pulled about 1.2 quart of new fluid, starting with the front calipers then rear.

Everything feels good but I haven't test ridden yet. Is it safe to assume that there's fluid in all lines?
Huh? You pulled 1.2 Quarts of fluid through each circuit? Why? There's only a few ounces in each circuit, AFAIK.
Total fluid was 1.2, not each circuit. I purged all the old fluid prior to removing the lines to keep the mess to a minimum. Afther the install, it took a total of 1.2 qt of fluid to get fluid to come out of the (4) bleeder screws - (3) in front calipers and (1) in rear. Now what............?

 
Total fluid was 1.2, not each circuit. I purged all the old fluid prior to removing the lines to keep the mess to a minimum. Afther the install, it took a total of 1.2 qt of fluid to get fluid to come out of the (4) bleeder screws - (3) in front calipers and (1) in rear. Now what............?
The clutch???? :unsure: ;) :D

My Gen I only has 2 in the front calipers (one on each side).

 
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Total fluid was 1.2, not each circuit. I purged all the old fluid prior to removing the lines to keep the mess to a minimum. Afther the install, it took a total of 1.2 qt of fluid to get fluid to come out of the (4) bleeder screws - (3) in front calipers and (1) in rear. Now what............?
The clutch???? :unsure: ;) :D

My Gen I only has 2 in the front calipers (one on each side).
GenII's have three - the right caliper has two, one is bled from the rear caliper reservoir, the other via the front reservoir. It's those linked brakes.

 
GenII's have three - the right caliper has two, one is bled from the rear caliper reservoir, the other via the front reservoir. It's those linked brakes.
Thanks, Hal. You have added to my knowledge base. I'm sure I would have figured it out had I seen one....of course there has to be a way to bleed the linked front brakes!.

I still think he forgot to change the hydraulic clutch fluid.... :D

 
Huh? You pulled 1.2 Quarts of fluid through each circuit? Why? There's only a few ounces in each circuit, AFAIK.
Total fluid was 1.2, not each circuit. I purged all the old fluid prior to removing the lines to keep the mess to a minimum. Afther the install, it took a total of 1.2 qt of fluid to get fluid to come out of the (4) bleeder screws - (3) in front calipers and (1) in rear. Now what............?
Oh, sorry. My mistake. Somehow I thought you were saying it was 1.2 quarts through each.

So now, if it feels firm (not spongy), you should be good to go.

 
Huh? You pulled 1.2 Quarts of fluid through each circuit? Why? There's only a few ounces in each circuit, AFAIK.
Total fluid was 1.2, not each circuit. I purged all the old fluid prior to removing the lines to keep the mess to a minimum. Afther the install, it took a total of 1.2 qt of fluid to get fluid to come out of the (4) bleeder screws - (3) in front calipers and (1) in rear. Now what............?
Oh, sorry. My mistake. Somehow I thought you were saying it was 1.2 quarts through each.

So now, if it feels firm (not spongy), you should be good to go.
The deluge has finally stopped here in Memphis, so I'll button up everything and take her for a test ride. I was just concerned that some lines, at the ABS block, may not have fluid, but that wouldn't make sense.

Did the clutch too.......! As an aside, brake fluid looked good, but clutch fluid definetely looked like it had a fair amount of moisture in it. Brake and clutch lever action is much firmer than before, now with all SS lines!

 
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