Bolt Just Won't Come Out...

[FJRocha]

I am almost done rebuilding the engine and transmission of my '96 S10 Blazer. The last thing I have to do before turning the key is to install the left exhaust manifold. Unfortunately, one of the flange bolts that attaches the Y-pipe to the manifold was barred when I removed it (about three months ago) so I have to replace the bolt. Following the infallible Murphy’s law, the darn thing is stocked to the manifold and just won’t come out. Here is what I have tried thus far:

- I tried using penetrating oil… it didn’t budge. :angry:

- I tried expanding the manifold thread hole by heating it with a propane torch … it didn’t turn. :angry:

- The socket was too small for the force I was exerting on it and it broke, so I tried using a pipe wrench to turn the bolt... the bolt broke in two. :blink:

- I tried drilling a hole through in the center of what was left of the bolt to use a screw extractor… the screw extractor broke flush to the drilled hole. mg:

- I tried using a rounded-nut extractor… the bolt broke again, this time below the surface of the manifold's thread hole. mg2:

I am just about running out of ideas :stunned: if I don’t get the darn bolt out, it’s going to cost me about $150.00 to get a new manifold :shock:

Any suggestions?

:eh:

 

[radman]

It's too late for the best plan, and that is major heat, as in torch heat. Propane torch doesn't produce near enough btus for this kind of job. with the extractor in there, manifold replacement has become the only option. It is a 96, and there are some aftermarket manifolds out there now. Left #674-212 149.99, right #674-211, 89.99. The brand is Dorman (nuts and bolts guys), and the prices are retail.

 

[Rogue]

Some times a machine shop can burn them out, call some machine shops in your area. should be about $20.

 

[radman]

Yeah, a plasma cutter might make short work of it, then a nut and bolt replacement for the oe setup.

 

[FJRottie]

They said it already but yes, some serious heat usually works.

Many header bolts and exhaust bolts need mega torch heat before being able to undo. I've seen it many times. Now that the bolt is broken you may need to go to a shop to get it cut with plasma or drilled.

 

[FJRocha]

Thanks for the machine shop tip... I took it a local machine shop and they got it out one and a half hours and five drill bits later. :blink: They just drilled the heck out of it until the bolt became dust. They told me that the heat from the torch had made it harder and it was a pain to drill out. I am glad I took it there, they even installed a new thread and all for $20.00.

I got the replacement bolt and I'm on my way to the oven (a.k.a garage) to finish the job... (now I just have to prey that it cranks up :eh: and that it runs)

 

[Jetmaker737]

Best of luck with that! Always nerve-racking to fire up teh newly rebuilt motor. :fie:

 

[SkooterG]

Frank, frank, frank......

The solution to your problem was elegantly simple.......

WTF would you even want to drive a 96 Blazer when you have an 05 FJR? Just leave the POS alone, never to run again. Testament of inferior transportation.

See how easy that was?

Greg

 

[FJRocha]

IT RUNS!!!!!!!

I turned the key and .... a few engine farts .... a few hessitations .... more engine farts .... and then smooth running ..... :clap: :dance: :clap: :dance: :clap:

Greg, Greg, Greg, how do you suggest I take my 7 y.o. daugter to ballet-gimnastics-iceskating-swimming-taekwendo-whoknowswhatelse AND the wife on the FJR? Dude, the bike is for ME to ride ALONE; I have to have something else for the rest of the family to go around town!!! :bleh: :beee: