brake lever question

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s.ga.rider

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I took my levers off yesterday and cleaned/lubricated them and now my brake lever has about a 1/4" of play in it. Just enough to where the brake light will stay on if i dont push it forward. Its like a spring should be on the shaft coming out of the master cylinder or the shaft isnt coming out far enough to keep the lever pushed all the way out. Is their something that was supposed to be on the shaft or in the indention of the lever? I swear nothing was on it except old dry grease.

 
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Just checked the repair manual and I don't see any external springs... there is however a spring inside the push rod (where the push rod is located inside the housing under the brake fluid reservoir) there is a spring. If you push on the push rod, does it seem to have enough force to return to it's position ? If not, there is your problem.

 
... there is however a spring inside the push rod (where the push rod is located inside the housing under the brake fluid reservoir) there is a spring. If you push on the push rod, does it seem to have enough force to return to it's position ? If not, there is your problem.
There is just the spring. Make sure all the parts are lubed and not sticking in the bore.

BrakeLeverII.jpg


Edited to correct the picture to the brake master cylinder.

 
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Just looking at the image... looks to be the left clutch lever as opposed to the right lever for the front brake.

 
Just looking at the image... looks to be the left clutch lever as opposed to the right lever for the front brake.
You're right. I clicked the link to the wrong picture but didn't have time to correct it just then. All better now!

 
I dont know what the deal was but after a few days everything worked itself out because now the lever has tension and works perfect.

 
Its doing it again, worse now for some reason. It appears that the rod is not pushing out on the lever enough to keep the brake light switch from coming on. It didnt do it before I took the lever off and lubed it. Is it possible that I did something wrong? All I did was remove the bolt and pulled the lever off, cleaned and lubed the pivot point and put it back on.

 
You may have overtightened the pivot bolt/nut, very easily done. I would suggest removing the brake lever again, clean everything thoroughly & re -grease (with a light grease). Finally install the pivot (bolt) and just do it up lightly then finally install the nut, making sure there is no change in the brake lever movement while tightening.

Good luck with it.

Don

 
I am having the same problem on my '08, I am glad I found this thread. The diagram on message #3 is most helpful.

One question: referring to the diagram, item 2, how do I get in there to clean it? From inside the reservoir? Or do the pieces pull out to the outside?

This is definitely where my problem is, the little rod (the end of #2 above) sticks and does not push the hand lever back. At the end of its travel, the resistance from the switch is greater than the pushing force of the spring in #2

 
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I need some help with this, no comments in over a week.

Again, my front brake lever does not return to fully off position and the brake switch stays on all the time.

Message #3 above, with the diagram. How do I get to the parts shown so I can check for scum that might be preventing the spring pushing the hand lever all the way back to off position?

 
PS In the interests of copyright, these images will self destruct in 7 days......................................

 
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Donal,

This is just what I need, but I can't read it. Can you try taking a picture of the two pages? That might work better than scanning. In the meantime, I am going to look for the Haynes manual. I have the official manual, it does not have this kind of information.

PS: As an alternate, what I need most is the detail on how to dismantle the little piston, o-ring, and spring, located in the fluid reservoir.

I went to the Haynes manual website and their manual is for XJR, not FJR, and goes up to year 2006. My bike is an '08. I see that you have an '09. Please confirm adequacy of manual.

 
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Just in case the plunger is gummed up, just pull it straight out of the master cylinder. That diagram you posted doesn't show it well. Go to the FSM section on front brakes (4-27 in mine) and there's a better exploded view. You could pull the dust boot off and clean up in there if you want, and take a look to see the guts of the master cylinder are pushed out against the circlip. If so, no need to go further as that involves a master cylinder rebuild.

 
RaY, thanks, that's very helpful. I found the exploded view you mentioned and I can clearly see what you describe.

Donal, I don't need further information.

 
RaY, thanks, that's very helpful. I found the exploded view you mentioned and I can clearly see what you describe.
Donal, I don't need further information.
Hope it helped some............... item 2 in the diagram above is a service kit, part no. 5JW-W0041-01

 
Just in case the plunger is gummed up, just pull it straight out of the master cylinder. That diagram you posted doesn't show it well. Go to the FSM section on front brakes (4-27 in mine) and there's a better exploded view. You could pull the dust boot off and clean up in there if you want, and take a look to see the guts of the master cylinder are pushed out against the circlip. If so, no need to go further as that involves a master cylinder rebuild.
Finally had some time for this, pulled out the rubber boot and found dirt and gum in there. Cleaned it out and it works much better now. But it's not 100% normal, it returns all the way back to reset the brake switch but it feels a little mushy returning. But this is obviously the root cause.

 
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