Brake Pad Question

[Groo]

Was replacing the OEM brake pads with the Carbone Lorraines I got in the group buy, and noticed the stock pads have a metal plate on the back that the CLs don't straight out of the package... All the stockers had one... Is this to help distribute the pressure across the pad, or is it just a shim/spacer?

Should I transfer the plates to the back of the CLs? I tried transferring the backing plates to the new pads, and they fit... except for 1 pad... couldn't get it to go in the caliper slot with the backing plate on it. All the others went in ok...

Was using Willy Gonnason's pad replacement writeup from FJRtech.... and it didn't mention the metal backing plates...

Lastly, if anyone knows of a similar writeup for the rear pad replacement, could you please point me to it?

Any learned opinions would be appreciated.

 

[Woodstock]

I moved the plate to the new pads.

 

[C&C]

Yes you need to transfer the shims. They click right on. Others who haven't swapped the shims have reported brake chattering and other braking anomalies. After re-installing, all was well again.

 

[Groo]

So if the consensus is that I need to keep the shims.... what should I do with the 1 pad that doesn't seem to want to fit when the shim is on?

 

[FJRPierre]

So if the consensus is that I need to keep the shims.... what should I do with the 1 pad that doesn't seem to want to fit when the shim is on?

This is what it is supposed to look like; shims are #3. If it doesn't fit because the shim adds width and the rotor won't fit in, you need to compress the pistons a bit using C clamp, wood wedge, whatever. Sometimes they won't compress easily and you may need to open the bleeder a crack to release the pressure.

(edited to show rear pads/shim)

 

[Warchild]

what should I do with the 1 pad that doesn't seem to want to fit when the shim is on?

Quite possibly, the pistons on that side are partially extended, preventing the pad from fitting with the shim in place..

Ensure that the pistons are completely, totally recessed back into your caliper cylinders, and it should fit. All four of mine did.

 

[Groo]

Thanks guys... I'll take another go at it tonight when I get home.

 

[yamaholic]

FYI on this. Loosen the master cylinder cover FIRST!! THEN squeeze the pistons back in. Otherwise you WILL BE FRUSTRATED on the second caliper.

DO NOT leverage a screwdriver or pry bar between the pistons and rotor. Just man-handle them back in. Another tip: Now is an EXCELLENT TIME to clean up the black brake dust from the pistons!! Not only will they go back in easier, but they will stick less, thus your pads and rotors will not overheat and they will last a lot longer!!!

Finally, take them off the fork if you can't get your fingers in there. You may find it much easier to deal with cleaning, forcing pistons back in, and fitting the pads.

BTW, I've tried a test recently. Using Galfer wave rotors on an '03, I swapped between Galfer carbons, Galfer sintered and CL sintered. Galfer sintered seemed to provide a more progressive braking effect over the CL's. Not a huge difference, but I noticed it right away, despite them not being bedded in. Both are much stronger than the carbon variety for sure. I'll be running the Galfer sintered for now on and will use the CL's as replacements when the G sinter wears out.

 

[Groo]

Thanks for the suggestion Yamaholic !

 

[comleader]

In the past, I have used the old pad to push the calipers back. Holding the friction side of the pad against the piston, and with your thumbs on the outside of the caliper (caliper off the carrier), pull the piston back into the caliper. Using the old pad is convenient, it distributes the pressure evenly across the caliper, and the friction side is flat without protrusions to nick the piston (unless you've run the pads clear down to the backing plate). You could do the same with a small piece of smooth wood.

 

[SilveradoSlick]

what should I do with the 1 pad that doesn't seem to want to fit when the shim is on?

Have you tried a bigger hammer? :headbonk:

The manual recommends replacing the shims but I can't see why.

 

[Groo]

Well, I took off the pins/spring/and retaining clips, loosened the resevoir cap, pulled out the one pad without the shim... and turned it 90 degrees so that I could insert it over the 2 pistons, and so that the ends protruded out to where I could grab them on both sides... gave a bit of a push, and thepistons resessed right away... probably pushed a bit too far, cause I had a few drops of fluid overflow the resevoir.... got that cleaned up, and put the shim on... slid right in. Tightened up the reservoir cap... got it all buttoned up, and looks like I'm good to go.

Got the rears done too, and now just need to go out later today and bed them in.