BREAK IN
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Rogue
Well-known member
Some (myself included) used this: MotoMan Method .
Some just follow the dealers instructions to the letter.
Some just follow the dealers instructions to the letter.
twowheelnut
R.I.P. Our Motorcycling Friend
Follow MOM. She will not lead you astray. Besides, who knows better - the engineers who designed the bike or the infamous Motoman?
Sorry, Doug, but that Motoman procedure is whack - big time...
Sorry, Doug, but that Motoman procedure is whack - big time...
Rogue
Well-known member
And some think that MotoMan says run the bike at redline non stop for the first 10,000 miles. :bleh:
twowheelnut
R.I.P. Our Motorcycling Friend
Oh, I know what he preaches, I just think it's fucked-up advice, that's all.
Hey, any news on Hwy 2 opening all the way?
Hey, any news on Hwy 2 opening all the way?
Rogue
Well-known member
No idea, July? :angry:
SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
Actually, mister all of a sudden technical expert, the Motoman break in does not go against the limitations set forth in the owner's manual in regards to engine break-in.
So why is it fucked-up?
Kaj
Well-known member
Following the instructions on owners manual...
C&C
Well-known member
I would read what MotoMan says and then make your decision as to what you want to do. ScooterG speaks the truth, the MotoMan breakin does not goes against the specifics mentioned in the Yamaha breakin method. (partially because the Yamaha breakin doesn't say very much and is as vague as can be) Many owners have used MotoMan's breakin and there haven't been any problems reported to date. I did MotoMan, after reading his theories, and am quite satified that I did the bike no harm and feel the breakin was beneficial. You have to decide for yourself.
tyronewildman
Real Old Guy
MotoMan for my new '04 & all my other new ones & no problems. No tick & runs quiet & smooth at 20,800 mi. Get 6 new filters & oil plug washers now & don't use a synthetic oil for a while. I've used Honda GN4 since new. Careful on tightening the oil pan plug as many have stripped the threads. Personally, I think the book quotes too much torque. Just removed my original front Bridgestone last night & am gonna spoon a new one today... Later,,, De 
Spinner
Well-known member
I have read the Motoman break in proceedure. His theory is that increased combustion pressure cause by running the engine extemely hard under a load will push the rings hard against the cylinders and create a better seal which translates into more horsepower for the life of the engine. It is an interesting concept. It has not been proven, other than the seat of the pants test that a number of Forum members can vouch for. My problem with MotoMan is that you need a racetrack to do it right. There is an alternative, the CalSci method that you might also consider. It uses some of the features of Motoman but is a little less extreme and easier to do on the street. You can find it on Mark Lawrence's CalSci web site.
zorkler
Ave U !!!!
motorman on the 05 . 11000 miles no problems .
ionbeam
2 FUN
:erm: :blink: :wacko: :dribble:
???????? Now that has to be a record :bigeyes:
S76
Well-known member
Well here's some useless fodder for the cannon.
If you follow the Manf instructions you will be fine. If you do the Motoman you will also be fine. His procedure will work well for steel cylinders. The point of it all is to put some load on the pistons and rings to help push them against the cylinder walls and seat them before the honing marks are worn off the cylinders. If the engine is used to lightly the honing marks wear off before the rings seat, and then they never do. But the FJR is a ceramic cylinder. And probably made to a much tighter tolerance, more perfectly round, than older engines. Does the ceramic need the same procedure? I don't know. But the bottom line is many have broken in their engines using both methods and nobody seems to have any problems.
After a reasonable time of break in, just run it like your gonna run it. I really don't think it will matter. I do plan to do some aggresive accel-decels after the first few miles but not to high RPM's and not to go crazy or anything. It just doesn't mater all that much. IMHO
If you follow the Manf instructions you will be fine. If you do the Motoman you will also be fine. His procedure will work well for steel cylinders. The point of it all is to put some load on the pistons and rings to help push them against the cylinder walls and seat them before the honing marks are worn off the cylinders. If the engine is used to lightly the honing marks wear off before the rings seat, and then they never do. But the FJR is a ceramic cylinder. And probably made to a much tighter tolerance, more perfectly round, than older engines. Does the ceramic need the same procedure? I don't know. But the bottom line is many have broken in their engines using both methods and nobody seems to have any problems.
After a reasonable time of break in, just run it like your gonna run it. I really don't think it will matter. I do plan to do some aggresive accel-decels after the first few miles but not to high RPM's and not to go crazy or anything. It just doesn't mater all that much. IMHO
FWIW I followed, as best I could, HMarcs advice on break in: https://www.fjr1300.info/breakin.html
I didn't get all the way through step 4; step 3 was exciting enough for me. My arms are longer now.
Whatever- as others have pointed out, it prolly doesn't matter that much; at least thats what I've concluded after all the addition things I've read since my break in almost two years ago.
I used Yamalube 20-40 for the 25, 600 and 3000 mile oil changes- went to Rotella T Syn after that. Purrs like a kitten.
I didn't get all the way through step 4; step 3 was exciting enough for me. My arms are longer now.
Whatever- as others have pointed out, it prolly doesn't matter that much; at least thats what I've concluded after all the addition things I've read since my break in almost two years ago.
I used Yamalube 20-40 for the 25, 600 and 3000 mile oil changes- went to Rotella T Syn after that. Purrs like a kitten.
Cal24Master
Well-known member
My advise is ride like you stole it. I broke in my 03 by riding it 700 miles home. 84,000 miles, no ticks no problems what so ever.
This bike has a ceramic coating on the cylinder walls that just does not wear. It isn't going to make any difference how much pressure you push the rings against coating.
The most important thing is not flog it really hard until all the other parts get used to running together for awhile. That's why they say no constant operation above certain rpms. It isn't a big deal, they say not to stay over 4,000 for sustained periods. That is about 75 mph.
I guess I can't do a Nevada rally until I get 1,000 miles on it. That should be this weekend... :lol:
Tom
Stray Bullet
Well-known member
I think one of the reasons that the manufacturers don't advocate a break-in procedure similar to MotoMan's is that there is a whole lot of law breaking going on!
I was well over 100 mph when I did it!
Rog
I was well over 100 mph when I did it!
Rog
FantasticJohnR
Well-known member
But the real stats here are how many owners followed Yammy's break in procedure (keep under 4,500 rpm for first 600 miles and under 5,000 rpm until 1,000) and also didn't have a problem- I bet the stats are the same...
How many of you have actually had problems that you could track back to the break-in period?
In the "old"days, this was much more important than todays much better engineered machines. Just think, how do you drive your brand new car when you pull of the lot...
If you are going to use old fashioned ideas I would rather stick with the one called "common sense"
GAPS
Well-known member
With the Motoman method, is oil AND filter changed at 20 miles or just the oil? I would think you could leave the filter alone.
