Broke the throttle stop

[Vulcan]

So I go to bend the tab to clear the throtle cable it it snapped off. Now I have to pull the cables off and buy a new part....no riding for me for awhile. Can this part be ordered by itself? I see that the peice is attached to the throtle bodies by a 10 mm nut.....

 

[Geezer]

You can look up the part here: Part Catalog.

 

[radman]

All the posts made here as to components that reduce or eliminate cable interference, still this happens. :blink: Bad news, tb components are not serviced by Yami. The only solution Mother offers is a complete TB bank, at $900 or so. I have a fix for you, but it will be offered as a last resort only. Not trying to be a prick, just see what you can come up with, if all else fails, the fix will be offered in the spirit of FJR comraderie. And cash, lots and lots of cash...........

 

[kaitsdad]

All the posts made here as to components that reduce or eliminate cable interference, still this happens. :blink: Bad news, tb components are not serviced by Yami. The only solution Mother offers is a complete TB bank, at $900 or so. I have a fix for you, but it will be offered as a last resort only. Not trying to be a prick, just see what you can come up with, if all else fails, the fix will be offered in the spirit of FJR comraderie. And cash, lots and lots of cash...........

Rad, you should also request some Johnnie Walker Blue Label scotch.

 

[radman]

If I drank, it would be considered...... Have had my eye on a Rick Mayer though............

 

[Mike-H]

Vulcan....you have a pm....

 

[evil_henchman]

I'm not sure which part you're talking about but there's an FJR1300 being parted out on ebay right now. Didn't see any throttle parts listed but it might pay to email the guy. Good luck!

 

[Afast03nNJ]

I'm not sure which part you're talking about but there's an FJR1300 being parted out on ebay right now. Didn't see any throttle parts listed but it might pay to email the guy. Good luck!

The throttle bodies are amoung the parts on ebay, just search....

 

[RTSR1/FJR]

Maybe I'm missing something here, but why would you need to bend the stop on the TB's?

 

[FJRJeff]

Maybe I'm missing something here, but why would you need to bend the stop on the TB's?

To summarize, adding a bolt through the throttle stop for the cruise control linkage causes the bolt to contact the throttle cable when the throttle is full open.

I considered bending mine, but was concerned about snapping the tab off, so I did not. At full throttle, the nut just contacts the cable. I'm not sure I'm too concerned about it - it doesn't seem like it would be abraisive. Maybe after the riding season, I will change my linkage to make it less intrusive, but for the time being, I'd rather ride that mess with that some more.

Jeff

 

[Vulcan]

Just an update for those following (laughing at me) the thread. I tried to take the broken plate off (it is the wheel that the throtle cables connect to) but there is no room to remove the plate with the throtle bodies on the bike (it hits the linkage on the throtle bodies for cylinders 1&2). I ended up having to remove the air box and then the throtle bodies. Once the throtle bodies are off the bike you can unscrew the ones for cylinders 3&4 from the bracket that holds them in position. This allows it to move just enough to clear the linkage and you can remove the plate. I'm trying JB Weld on it right now. My plan is to build up the tab area so that it is about twice the size of the original one......give me a little more material to drill into etc. I used a paper clip as my "rebar".

 

[radman]

Just an update for those following (laughing at me) the thread. I tried to take the broken plate off (it is the wheel that the throtle cables connect to) but there is no room to remove the plate with the throtle bodies on the bike (it hits the linkage on the throtle bodies for cylinders 1&2). I ended up having to remove the air box and then the throtle bodies. Once the throtle bodies are off the bike you can unscrew the ones for cylinders 3&4 from the bracket that holds them in position. This allows it to move just enough to clear the linkage and you can remove the plate. I'm trying JB Weld on it right now. My plan is to build up the tab area so that it is about twice the size of the original one......give me a little more material to drill into etc. I used a paper clip as my "rebar".

Had you pm'd me, I would have been able to help, being as I have a complete set of TB's sitting in front of me as I type. Good luck with the JB.

 

[Vulcan]

I reread your prior post......sorry it was too vague for me to understand that you wanted a PM.

 

[radman]

I reread your prior post......sorry it was too vague for me to understand that you wanted a PM.

Well, yer right, I didn't specify a pm, I guess any communication would have worked.

 

[ionbeam]

I have a fix for you, but it will be offered as a last resort only. Not trying to be a prick, just see what you can come up with, if all else fails, the fix will be offered in the spirit of FJR comraderie

I reread your prior post......sorry it was too vague for me to understand that you wanted a PM.

Well, yer right, I didn't specify a pm, I guess any communication would have worked.

As the two dancers slowly, ponderously negotiate their way around the dance floor. Fer guds sake, kiss, speed up or get off the floor. <_< :lol: :lol: :lol:

And, good luck with your throttle stop. Man, I hate it when things like that happen.

And, #2, Rad, whazzup with having a rack on your desk? (Especially when it isn't your wife's!) Is someone's FJR running quite a bit lean these days?

 

[radman]

Well, an update is in order. Poor guy hasn't ridden for two months because of the broken tab, and I believe I can and will help him out.

For those of you contemplating the CCS100 install, allow me to reiterate-the BEST method out there for the cable to tab install is a small buttonhead screw, like so

not unlike the fairing screws-but a #5 machine thread is about right. Install the button head on the cable contacting side of the tab, with the cruise cable UNDER the tab, and loosely secured with a nylock nut nylock side threaded first. Over 16000 miles on Frank with this setup, minimal cable contact, and absolutely 0 cable wear as a result. No tab bending, no fuss, no muss. And no broken tabs.

 

[Vulcan]

Radman......what can I say. You saved my bacon on this. Hopefully the Karma Gods smile on you.

Thx

Jeff