Broken damper rod?

[street]

I found the posted photo and a comment on the original thread that "this happens." I think it's a Gen I like mine.

I took a fork to a Yamaha dealer to replace the seal and the tech says the bottom bolt holding the damper rod just spins. I ask if he used a damper rod holder like the YM 01447, and the service dept manager calls me and says they don't have the Yamaha tool, but they have an assortment of damper rod holders and used one to keep the rod steady. Bolt is loose, but won't back out. Dealership says they didn't use an impact driver.

So they can't disassemble the fork. I read about the apply pressure to the fork and then try an impact wrench method. I'm going to give this a try, but I have questions. If the bottom of the damper rod is broken off from the shaft as shown in the photo, shouldn't the cartridge just come up without the part that bolts it down? I yanked up hard on the cartridge and no movement. And should everything spin around when I loosen the top cap and turn the bolt in the bottom of the fork bolt? Things feel pretty solid.

I can't but help think the dealer is snowing me. I think the tech tried to get a damper rod holder down there, hit the spacer covering the 26 mm nut and declared the damper rod broken. Service manager is talking about 2 new forks from MY 2006 or transferring the only Gen I fork in America in. I got ABS. I don't think 2006 forks will work.

Thanks in advance for any insights. I'd do everything myself, but I have a dislocated thumb.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Welcome from metro Seattle!

If the damper assembly bottom is twisted off, the dealer should be able to separate the forks and remove the tube and (what's left) damper assembly. With a little ingenuity the broken piece and bolt can be removed. For replacement, consider an aftermarket cartridge. Also check eBay for replacement GEN I forks. Those seem to be readily available.

Good luck!

~G

 

[street]

Yes indeed. The remaining part of the cartridge should pull out, but it doesn't. Also, it would be bear to get the spring perch washer back on top of the nut on the top of the cartridge with everything still in the fork tube.

 

[Auburn]

Yes indeed. The remaining part of the cartridge should pull out, but it doesn't. Also, it would be bear to get the spring perch washer back on top of the nut on the top of the cartridge with everything still in the fork tube.

Today is your lucky day. I have a set of Gen 1 fork bottoms (no sliders) and one good complete cartridge that were left over from another forum member who needed a cartridge when his broke.

If you would like, get your forks back and you can come over to my place and we can rebuild them. PM me with contact info and we can set something up. I’m in the Auburn area.

 

[Panman]

Today is your lucky day. I have a set of Gen 1 fork bottoms (no sliders) and one good complete cartridge that were left over from another forum member who needed a cartridge when his broke.

If you would like, get your forks back and you can come over to my place and we can rebuild them. PM me with contact info and we can set something up. I’m in the Auburn area.

Now that's a good deal, Auburn stepping up to the plate again!

 

[street]

Good to know. My neighbor owns a race car shop, and we're compressing the fork with a ram today and will try to spin the bolt out. If that fails, we're headed to meet fellow member in Auburn.

 

[street]

We got the bolt out and dealership admits that they were lying. They also popped off the fork protector which shop manual says don't.

What I did was drilled a hole in a 2' plank at one end. Removed the damper adjustment knob and stuck the damper adjustment shaft into the hole. Tipped the fork and put tie down hooks into the caliper bolts. Stood on the board and tilted the fork upright. The ties downs compressed the fork about 3 or 4". Used an impact wrench and bolt came out. No muscle power I'll repeat process so I can torque the bolt down, but I'll have a helper hold the fork so I can use a torque wrench.

 

[escapefjrtist]

That's better news than anticipated. Glad you got it apart!

~G

 

[Auburn]

We got the bolt out and dealership admits that they were lying. They also popped off the fork protector which shop manual says don't.

What I did was drilled a hole in a 2' plank at one end. Removed the damper adjustment knob and stuck the damper adjustment shaft into the hole. Tipped the fork and put tie down hooks into the caliper bolts. Stood on the board and tilted the fork upright. The ties downs compressed the fork about 3 or 4". Used an impact wrench and bolt came out. No muscle power I'll repeat process so I can torque the bolt down, but I'll have a helper hold the fork so I can use a torque wrench.

Just get a 26 mm socket and a piece of 1/2 tube and weld up your own tool to hold the nut on top of the cartridge then you can do it by yourself and have the right tool for disassembly next time

 

[street]

All good on the seal replacement, though my dislocated thumb isn't thanking me.

I didn't need to compress the fork to tighten the bottom bolt. I didn't go up to the factory torque spec of 25 ft#. Things felt pretty tight at 22ft#.

The shop in Vancouver WA I asked to do this really buggered up the top cap and scratched the lower tube removing the stone protector. Looks like the tech used pliers to tighten the preload adjuster. I guess he was saving time not having to fish for the right wrench. Shop manual says don't remove the rock guards, and if you do, replace with new. It's back on there, but is pretty easy to pop off.

I bought a Motion Pro 48mm seal driver and glad I did. Even all greased up, the seal required some good whacks before it seated.

My bike turned 20 last month. Other than one recall, never saw dealer service until this bad experience. She's got at least another 20 in her if I keep doing the maintenance, but I'll have to replace her rider before then. Thanks everyone for the helpful input.

 

[RossKean]

Shop manual says don't remove the rock guards, and if you do, replace with new. It's back on there, but is pretty easy to pop off.

I've had mine off a few times. Easier to replace seals/bushings and much easier if you need to use a Seal Mate to try to remove dirt from a seal to stop a leak. Not as tight as they used to be but I don't feel any need to replace them, despite what the FSM says.

 

[street]

Good to know. I'll bet you didn't gouge the fork legs getting them off, though I now have index lines to line up.

And RossKean, I just noticed in your signature that you clocked 295k on your '07. Congratulations, that is amazing.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Glad your forks are back together. During PNW tech days, we've never replaced the rock guards when rebuilding with new bushings and seals. Use a wood dowel or similar to remove the rock guards. No damage that way!

~G

 

[RossKean]

Good to know. I'll bet you didn't gouge the fork legs getting them off, though I now have index lines to line up.

And RossKean, I just noticed in your signature that you clocked 295k on your '07. Congratulations, that is amazing.

That is kilometers but still not bad. Was still running perfectly when I sold it. Never did anything beyond normal maintenance to the engine/clutch/transmission/final drive. Never used a drop of oil. 150,000 km on my 2011 (so far).