Buying an '03 tomorrow, any advice?

[Fred W]

The FJR Oil Haiku

Oil in my Engine...

what kind should I use in there?

It don't matter man.

 

[pjm204]

Well, I got the bike. Rode it home about 50 miles, most of which was following a guy on a Goldwing. I know I probably should have passed him but he was running a steady 85 and I was borrowing the sellers license plate. I must say, the bike is great. It is hot, no doubt about it but it is also 94 degrees today. The bike is 100% original, I will definitely need to do a few things to it. I'm going to change all the fluids over the next week. I'm sure I will be asking for help or advice.

I did hit neutral once by accident which I never do but I'm still getting used to the bike.

 

[Fred W]

Well, I got the bike. Rode it home about 50 miles, most of which was following a guy on a Goldwing. I know I probably should have passed him but he was running a steady 85 and I was borrowing the sellers license plate. I must say, the bike is great. It is hot, no doubt about it but it is also 94 degrees today. The bike is 100% original, I will definitely need to do a few things to it. I'm going to change all the fluids over the next week. I'm sure I will be asking for help or advice.
I did hit neutral once by accident which I never do but I'm still getting used to the bike.

False neutrals are not a big problem (or typical) with these bikes. It's probably just a matter of adjusting the angle of the shift lever to your foot/boot and getting used to it a bit. Many folks don't clutch at all when shifting, and that makes it snap into gear more positively. I tend to fan the clutch lever without fully releasing the throttle and get some pretty smooth shifts that way.

Enjoy your new (to you) bike. It's a great machine.

 

[pjm204]

False neutrals are not a big problem (or typical) with these bikes. It's probably just a matter of adjusting the angle of the shift lever to your foot/boot and getting used to it a bit. Many folks don't clutch at all when shifting, and that makes it snap into gear more positively. I tend to fan the clutch lever without fully releasing the throttle and get some pretty smooth shifts that way.
Enjoy your new (to you) bike. It's a great machine.

I agree with your statement. I beleive the shifter needs to be raised one notch on the splines for my foot size. The idle is set too low, its at around 800. Not sure what the cause is, could just be set incorrectly. It runs great though. Seems to handle pretty well too. No lack of power here though, its a beast.

 

[Fred W]

False neutrals are not a big problem (or typical) with these bikes. It's probably just a matter of adjusting the angle of the shift lever to your foot/boot and getting used to it a bit. Many folks don't clutch at all when shifting, and that makes it snap into gear more positively. I tend to fan the clutch lever without fully releasing the throttle and get some pretty smooth shifts that way.
Enjoy your new (to you) bike. It's a great machine.

I agree with your statement. I beleive the shifter needs to be raised one notch on the splines for my foot size. The idle is set too low, its at around 800. Not sure what the cause is, could just be set incorrectly. It runs great though. Seems to handle pretty well too. No lack of power here though, its a beast.

You can linearly adjust the position of the shifter via the adjustable link shaft (kind of a turn buckle affair) no need to change splines unless it is way off. May even be covered in the owners manual.

Set your idle at 1100 (+/- 0) via the idle adjustment screw under the right side of the tank. That is the happy place for idle.

 

[pjm204]

Sounds good. I'm gonna browse the manual tonight. Any place for a service manual download on here(or is this question frowned upon?).

 

[SacramentoMike]

Sound like you did good. Just one thing, you've probably got the original tires. Those babies are old. I'd advise watching them pretty closely, and maybe build up to the hard cornering till after you get your next set.

 

[pjm204]

Sound like you did good. Just one thing, you've probably got the original tires. Those babies are old. I'd advise watching them pretty closely, and maybe build up to the hard cornering till after you get your next set.

Dually noted. They are the original tires. I agree I will take it easy on them. While probably not the best idea, I have ridden on older tires. I'm hoping to put some serious miles on this bike in the near future so these tires will not last long. While going to the dark side is appealing, I can't imagine the handling is very good. I'll probably stick with the Shinko 009 or 005 that I have been running with good success.

 

[RadioHowie]

(or is this question frowned upon?).

Imagine William Wallace (Mel Gibson) at the end of "Braveheart."

 

[pjm204]

(or is this question frowned upon?).

Imagine William Wallace (Mel Gibson) at the end of "Braveheart."

Talk me into going to the darkside.

 

[RadioHowie]

(or is this question frowned upon?).

Imagine William Wallace (Mel Gibson) at the end of "Braveheart."

Talk me into going to the darkside.

PM me in 10,000 miles when you're putting your third $200 rear tire on.

 

[pjm204]

PM me in 10,000 miles when you're putting your third $200 rear tire on.

I run shinko 009, $190 for a set mounted.

I'm just nervous how the turn in would be with a car tire on the rear due to the flat profile.

 

[slapnpop]

Thanks for the advice though. I had planned to do an oil change, check the tires, final drive oil, brake fluid, and a general overall inspection. Do I dare ask what the favorite oil of FJR owners is? haha...I'll probably go with Rotella, but not sure yet.

Here's what *I* would do if I were in your situation (I own an '03):

1. Change out for new: tire, battery, brake and clutch lines, all fluids and filters. I would, and did, opt for stainless lines, and particularly enjoyed the clutch feel improvement. The factory service interval for these is 2 years regardless of milage, and I'd bet money they are original.

2. Lube ALL pivot points, and remove any rust found in the process. You don't say where you're at, but in some parts of the country this could be an issue. The list includes, but is not limited to: swingarm pivots, shift linkage, rear brake linkage, both levers, drive splines and U joint, etc.

3. Inspect any other rubber parts for signs of aging, or cracking when bent. Coolant hoses, etc. Keep a close eye on the forks for a while for any signs of leaks.

4. Unwind 1 turn on the center throttle return spring. Mine was really stiff.

5. Cheap recommended upgrades: Taper steering head bearings, front fork brace, cruise control of your preference

Sounds good. I'm gonna browse the manual tonight. Any place for a service manual download on here(or is this question frowned upon?).

The only service manual I know of for the FJR is the Yamaha service manual, and is only legally available in print. I've seen used copies of the '03 service manual floating around for $35.00. That's cheap compared to a $6.5k bike.

PM me in 10,000 miles when you're putting your third $200 rear tire on.

Oh dude, you're payin' too much for tires!

The FJR Oil Haiku

Oil in my Engine...

what kind should I use in there?

It don't matter man.

This is by far the BEST POST EVER! I owe Fred a beer for the entertainment value.

 

[Sticky Throttle]

Dialing in the suspension makes a substantial difference to the FJR's handling for many. It's easy and it's free. See clicky

Good tires will make a substantial difference as well. I've had good results with Avon Storms and Michelin PRIIs.

Good luck with the '03! I'm sold. :thumbsup:

 

[Meltdown]

+1 to changing all the fluids and lines.

Years ago I picked up a bike that was 7 years old and had 2000 miles on it. Some of the fluids were looking pretty funky. Changed everything out and all was right with the universe.

 

[pjm204]

I can't promise that I will be changing the lines right away. I've ridden bikes with many more miles and many more years with original lines. I know its not right but until I feel like throwing the money into stainless lines that is the way it will be.

 

[wheatonFJR]

I can't promise that I will be changing the lines right away. I've ridden bikes with many more miles and many more years with original lines. I know its not right but until I feel like throwing the money into stainless lines that is the way it will be.

With your experience, I presume you will atleast be changing fluid then...

 

[chrisflock]

Old hard rubber tires

Summer storms make the road slick

Have you frame sliders?

Seriously, though I've got tires that old on my F4i. They seem fine (a little stiff and hard, but fine) on dry pavement, but the first time I ride it in the rain, I'm going to be real careful. At 3k, your tires only have a little bit of hooliganism in 'em before the cords reveal themselves...

 

[pjm204]

Yea the tires will not be on there long. All fluids will be changed very soon. Plan to lube the splines and U-drive when I change the rear tire. Brake fluid and oil will be done this weekend.

I need to pick up a back rest soon for my lady friend. Might even toy with the idea of fabricating something myself. Thanks for the advice guys, keep it coming.