Buying salvage bikes?

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slapnpop

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So, I'm trying to find a cheap rolling chassis from a later model (say 2003+) sport bike for a "project."

I need frame, suspension, brakes, controls, etc. No engine, no transmission, no exhaust, no cooling system.. Pretty much everything else.

I've been debating buying an insurance salvage bike at auction to keep my up-front cost low, and selling off the un-needed parts to finance the replacement parts I need to fix whatever damage. Has anyone had experience buying these kinds of bikes at auction? Is there a better (cheaper) way to get what I need? I've also thought about scanning racing/track day forums for guys with blown engines, but I think they are more likely to want more for the remains of the bike.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Comments? I'm all ears (not like SkooterG, though! :p )

 
So, I'm trying to find a cheap rolling chassis from a later model (say 2003+) sport bike for a "project."
I need frame, suspension, brakes, controls, etc. No engine, no transmission, no exhaust, no cooling system.. Pretty much everything else.

I've been debating buying an insurance salvage bike at auction to keep my up-front cost low, and selling off the un-needed parts to finance the replacement parts I need to fix whatever damage. Has anyone had experience buying these kinds of bikes at auction? Is there a better (cheaper) way to get what I need? I've also thought about scanning racing/track day forums for guys with blown engines, but I think they are more likely to want more for the remains of the bike.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Comments? I'm all ears (not like SkooterG, though! :p )
Hmm - I did one recently (6 yrs ago). A BMW R1100RT. A 1997 with 55k miles that a rider T-boned a car with - he was OK. Bought off EBay and had it shipped from FL. "It runs and rides" Not. "A salvage certificate" Not. Basically it had a certificate of destruction, and 155k miles on it before he turned it back. BTW, the seller was a scrap yard who was arrested for running a chop shop. I got it running and put some decent miles on it before a cam chain guide started to act up. then I bought the FJR. I recommend seeing the title and checking it out personally before jumping in...

Before:

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After:

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Pick up a copy of the August edition of Motorcyclist magazine. There's a very good article on exactly this topic titled "Salvage Yard Salvation - Back from the Brink" (article begins on page 120). A lot of very good tips for buying salvage bikes, buying parts, etc.

BTW: let me know if you need any help. I'll help you with yours if you help me with mine..! ;)

 
You may need to buy at least two hulks, a front/rear damaged pair or a right/left damaged pair and then graft them together. The odds of finding a complete, healthy chassis just in need of an engine is slim.

First thing, find out if the company you are talking with is selling the chassis themselves or if they are brokering the deal through another salvage company. If they are brokering the deal, get the name of the other company, the name of the owner or manager of that company as well as a contact phone number. If things start to stink this will expedite getting hold of someone that can make a difference.

Early in the process get the VIN of the chassis(s) and confirm the salvage co. is selling what he claims he is selling. Find out how long the corpse has been sitting. If possible, have them send you a copy of the title or a copy of the insurance papers to provide some indication that the represented miles on the chassis is in line with documentation. This will also help you determine that you are getting a true salvage chassis and not a hot chassis. Find out if the chassis has been rolled (pushed along as if it were powered) and what systems such as wheels, suspension and brakes were activated when pushed. Ask about the condition of the electrical harnesses, be explicit about the main harness. If they represent the fork tubes and triple tree are true you may want them to do some checks and ask specifically what remediation is available if they turn out not to be as represented. Sometimes the seller may prefer to pay to have an item repaired rather than returned under warranty, if he doesn't offer this, ask if they would consider it in place of a returned part.

Salvage companies are very relaxed when they say something is 'complete' and there is no standard as to what 'complete' means. Get an explicit list of what is included. Find out what their warranty is, who will authorize a part for return and who will pay shipping for returned parts. When ever possible have the salvage company test and confirm in writing that a system, such as brakes are working. If you have any tests in mind, tell them what you want done, they may or may not do it, which could be a clue as to what you are dealing with.

I know the name of a salvage broker that you could start with, after a three month long phone relationship with them I trust them more than a lot of others. I learned quite a lot when trying to purchase a salvage engine for my FJR.

Well, these are a few ideas, pick and choose what works for you. Best of luck!

Edited: Dayumn, there was a lot of quality posting while I was typing.

 
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Slappy. is this for street use when fixed or track use?

If it is for track use, another place to look is with local road racers. A lot of times they have bought salvage bikes, fixed 'em and spent a lot to have the frame checked or straightened by Computrack. If you have friends that are good race mechanics they can often tell you the history on race bikes, which ones to get and which ones to avoid. Especially if it is one they work build the engine for racing.

I have gotten a couple of very good bikes this way for lots less. One even had all the street gear. And since I am the second owner of it after salvage, I could get the titled cleaned up when I registered it here in Washington. I could legally sell it without the "rebuilt" on the title.

 
So, I'm trying to find a cheap rolling chassis from a later model (say 2003+) sport bike for a "project."
I need frame, suspension, brakes, controls, etc. No engine, no transmission, no exhaust, no cooling system.. Pretty much everything else.

I've been debating buying an insurance salvage bike at auction to keep my up-front cost low, and selling off the un-needed parts to finance the replacement parts I need to fix whatever damage. Has anyone had experience buying these kinds of bikes at auction? Is there a better (cheaper) way to get what I need? I've also thought about scanning racing/track day forums for guys with blown engines, but I think they are more likely to want more for the remains of the bike.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Comments? I'm all ears (not like SkooterG, though! :p )
Okay, generally, it won't be you at an auction. The auctions are for licensed salvage dealers. Unless, of course, you were referring to ebay, which is kinda like an auction, but the bike has really already been purchased at an insurance auction by a salvage company. Then, you have to take into consideration what type of salvage it is. Meaning, the titles are done in various ways. With some, the title has not been altered even though the bike was a total loss. There are some that have a "salvage" title, but can be fixed and re-titled. There are others that have "salvage-parts only" titles that can not be legally returned to road worthiness. Another consideration would be your state's laws concerning getting a salvage bike re-titled. Here, that requires that you have a salvage-rebuilders license. Of course, there are those with said licenses that will do the required paperwork for the title on your behalf for a fee. Also, this generally requires an inspection by the state. It is not an inspection of safety or proper repair, but an inspection of all numbered parts in an attempt to eliminate "chop-shops." Make sure you keep all receipts for parts, new and used. If used, make sure the receipt contains the VIN for the originating bike.

Now, if nothing recognizable of the original bike shall remain, then all this title crap is just that; crap. However, generally, the title of a motorcycle is determined by the frame. So, if the frame will remain in your "project," then you will prolly have a title designating that bike. All of the other parts of the bike can be donated to a project, but the frame will bring the title info with it.

 
Autocyclers https://www.autocyclers.com (Tyge and Chad Land) over in Madisonville, TN run a bike salvage operation. They are very honest guys in my experience. I've bought salvage bikes and salvaged engines from them. They often run auctions on ebay. You may have seen them there. They will give a 100% honest description of the bike, but if you want to have your bid subject to your approval, you'd better go see them before you bid. They won't take kindly to welching bidders.

Sometimes you can luck up on a theft recovery salvage with minimal damage. I bought one once that was low mileage and in excellent mechanical condition. Frame as straight as an arrow. There was lots of small plastic damage, much of which I polished out. I had to replace about $300 worth of parts (probably about $500 at retail). I had to get the title fixed to "passed rebuilt theft recovery inspection" status. It cost me $75 and I had to wait a few weeks for the state's approval. I rode it (along with other bikes) for several years.

Now comes the rub. If you're going to use the bike at the track, or if you intend to keep it for a long time, then the rebuilt title won't be too big a deal. However, when you go to sell the bike, you will have fewer potential buyers, and the ones that are willing to buy the bike will expect a deal. What this means is that you have to be careful not to give too much on the front end.

 
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THIS DEALER is close to me, so I could actually go and look at something for you.

Hey, they've got an '07 FJR.

 
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I understand the whole deal with various levels of titling, resale value, etc. I have a dealer who can make a purchase for me. I'm more interested in the nitty-gritty of it, or other good ways to wind up with what I need.

A few-model-years-old race bike with a recently blown engine would be right up my alley. My ultimate intention is to use for the street, but I'm betting that this vehicle will be billed as "custom built," but you never know. Either way I want a frame that's in good physical shape in the end.

 
I understand the whole deal with various levels of titling, resale value, etc. I have a dealer who can make a purchase for me. I'm more interested in the nitty-gritty of it, or other good ways to wind up with what I need.
This would be easier if we could see the sketches. ;)

 
A little less SoCal stoner, a little more engineer and packaging refinement...

 
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Ahhhh, an electric bike. Hmmmm, didn't take long for you to become PNW'd. ;)

You might could get an 'Experimental' exemption, too.

 
So, I'm trying to find a cheap rolling chassis from a later model (say 2003+) sport bike for a "project."
I need frame, suspension, brakes, controls, etc. No engine, no transmission, no exhaust, no cooling system.. Pretty much everything else.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Comments? I'm all ears (not like SkooterG, though! :p )
I have a clean title for a 1987 FZR1000. The frame doesn't actually exist. But if you find a frame with a salvage title you could just re-stamp this VIN on it. The caveat is it's a Canadian title. You would have to export it into the states, and to do that you have to present the bike to customs...........probably way too much work, but it just gave me an idea :rolleyes:

 
Ahhhh, an electric bike. Hmmmm, didn't take long for you to become PNW'd. ;)
You might could get an 'Experimental' exemption, too.
This one's been on my list of to-do's since about '06, but I have access to equipment and knowledge now.

 
look up www.npauctions.com. they are a wholesale only( who doest know somebody with a dealers license to get ya in) motorcycle and atv auction. Located in my town of Atlanta Ga, San Diego Ca, Dallas Tx and now cincinnati Oh. They have tons of not neccessarily salvage sport bikes, but a bunch of Squided out laid down machines that the owners decide to quit paying for and therefore get repoed.

The Atlanta local sells about 2000 units a month.

Lots of harleys, tons of all terrains and a few boats as well.

 
Well, the good thing about building a lithium-based electric bike is that if the wiring drives you insane, you can always medicate with the remnants.

 
I can't afford the lithiums right now. I only need about 30 miles range for a daily commute, so I think AMGs or Gels are in my future. (as least until the lithium cells come down in price)

 
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