Cali Charcoal Canister Removal

[USAFRider]

So upon searching here and checking with the local stealership, even though black FJRs are wayyyyy faster, they seem to have a problem from the sweet black paint job that absorbs heat and makes it run a bit rough after it's been sitting in the sun because of gas vapors. If I remove the charcoal canister does anyone know what to do with the hoses? The only other option, my mechanic told me is to just let it run for a while after I start it and rev the engine to blow everything out.

 

[johnny80s]

Plug the hose that come from the airbox.

Take the two hose that come out of the tank and tee them together and run the line out the bottom of the bike.

Remove the charcoal canister and put it on the shelf just in case.

You will need a screw to fit in the hose you cut and a Y or T fitting for the hoses.

 

[not2shabby]

I just ran the hoses back over the clutch slave cylinder and shifter shaft, then down between the motor and swingarm. No problems since then, but I may clean it up next time I pop the tank up. Oh, it's not just the black bikes either, my blue 06 used to be really bad after sitting in the sun all afternoon at work if the temp was 80 or higher.

 

[dcarver]

There are two hoses connecting the charcoal canister to the throttle body assembly cylinder 1 and 4. Be sure to plug the hoses or else your engine will digest unfiltered air. DAMHIK, but cyl 4 has 45 psi compression now..

In this pix you can see the brass nipples, cyl 1 & 4, at bottom left and right.

 

[not2shabby]

There are two hoses connecting the charcoal canister to the throttle body assembly cylinder 1 and 4. Be sure to plug the hoses or else your engine will digest unfiltered air. DAMHIK, but cyl 4 has 45 psi compression now..

In this pix you can see the brass nipples, cyl 1 & 4, at bottom left and right.

Whoa! I thought they went back to the airbox! Guess I better get those beotchs plugged up. You'd think the bike wouldn't run well with the charcoal cannister out of the loop, but mine purrs like a kitten since removing it. Weird...

45 lbs of compression, eh? How long ago did you remove the cannister?

 

[Vmaxrider]

Ok so I did this to my bike today. I unplugged the hose on the canister that goes to the number 1 and 4 throttle bodies and plugged it. I then used a "Y" fitting and attached both drains from the tank into the original one that ran to the bottom of the bike just forward of the swing arm. Am I forgetting anything? I didn't notice any going to the airbox? Is there anything to do there? I really hope this helps, after sitting in the sun my bike would run really rough and act like it was running on 2 cylinders, another time it didn't want to start at all. I'm all for saving the environment, but not at the cost of having an unsafe bike that may not start.

 

[captaincautious]

I'm thinking about diving into this today. If you disconnect the fuel tank breather line and T it into the other fuel tank breather line as everyone says to do and plug remainder of fuel line traveling to the cannister haven't you essentially done what needs to be done? My question being that the other line which travels from the cannister to the airfilter or throttle bodies "I am slightly unsure where it goes first" if left connected to the cannister should be fine left as is if you don't want to disconnect and remove cannister etc. as opposed to removing and plugging the line if total disassembly was happening? If I do this I would rather leave it in check until warranty expires.

 

[Vmaxrider]

The canister has three lines total. One is a drain out the bottom, one goes from your tank to the canister, the other is from the canister to the 1 and 4 cylinder. When the left side fairing is off it is easy to determine which is which. After you tee the two drains together on the bottom of the tank, you have to plug the line from the canister to the number 1 and 4 cylinder. You can remove the throttle bodies and cap each one that is shows in the pic above, or you can opt out the easy way like I did and just unplug the hose from the canister, and then plug the hose itself. There is no line to the airbox from the canister so no worries there. I left all the parts in tact on the bike in case I would ever need to revert back, but since I don't live in California hopefully I won't. I hope this helps you. It completely solved my rough starting /running bike after it sits in the sun.

 

[captaincautious]

Did you check to see if there was any vacuum to the line which was plugged going to the throttle bodies?

 

[Vmaxrider]

I did not, but looking at it I would think there would be, the fittings on the throttle bodies are just like the ones on top used for throttle body sync.Also I would think there would have to be vacuum in order for the system to work as intended.

 

[captaincautious]

True and that makes perfect sense because it would have to circulate. I guess what I'm thinking; could any damage occur by plugging the vacuum line going to the throttlebodies like everyone has said as opposed to filtering it somehow so that air could still ingest into the system through the line? Probably overthinking this and I'm not a whiz at mechanics by any means but just trying not to do any damage.

 

[Vmaxrider]

It would not damage it at all. The parts diagram doesn't show a separate throttle body for the non California models so I am assuming they just have rubber plugs over the number 1 and 3 connections. Just like the non Cali models have the same tank with two vent lines in the back, they just tee them together. By plugging the line you are realistically making your bike just like the non Cali models. I would not bother with a filter over plugging it. It could lead to it running crappy and as though it had a vacuum leak.

 

[captaincautious]

Thanks for all the info! It pretty much covers it for me. My bike is doing the exact same thing as you described. I'll be surprised if it's not that, but just in case I will try the Sea Foam procedure and go from there.