Caliper Rebuild

[Diablo1]

Yesterday I rebuilt the front calipers on my 2006 AE. The service manual says you need to bleed the ABS when you open a brake line, but don’t outline a procedure other than system tests. So far, I’ve bled the front master to calipers, and now will bleed the rear master to front right caliper. Is there anything special needed to get all air out with ABS? For those that want to split the calipers, Harbor Freight has the E-Torx sockets required. I used a hand impact as the bolts have a white sealant on the threads.
I reused the special seals between the caliper halves, as they are not available from Yamaha. I did find them online though. The right caliper uses 2 seals and the left caliper one seal. I used Raybestos silicone grease DBL-2 on the piston seals and outer dust seals, and lubed the pistons with brake fluid to insert in the calipers. The pistons now move very freely.

https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in...MIlYuZ2LHdhQMVaevjBx1RoAHzEAQYASABEgJ2HPD_BwE

https://brakecrafters.com/products/...e-caliper-seal-o-rings?variant=39741200793783

 

[redzgrider]

I don't have it handy, but there are multiple methods for activating the ABS as part of the bleeding process, including both the front and rear systems. One such method requires a short between two pins in a connector accessed via the battery compartment, although there is also a wired switch available to plug into the connector to make it even easier. I found bleeding the rear with multiple ABS cycles much more effective than without -- though the pedal still goes soft over the course of a month. I'll see if I can't find those processes, but you should also be able to find them with the google.

 

[harper]

Here is an excellent photo of the ABS actuator connector posted by SooterG. Also, a great YouTube video of the ABS flush posted by Two Wheeled Obsession.

 

[Diablo1]

I activated the ABS pump by using the jumper on the connector by the battery. Yes, that pumps the old fluid out and exchanges it for fresh fluid. But, does that bleed air out?

 

[kdclaiborne]

I activated the ABS pump by using the jumper on the connector by the battery. Yes, that pumps the old fluid out and exchanges it for fresh fluid. But, does that bleed air out?

99% sure that procedure does not bleed air out, just cycles the fluid (and any air) sitting in the ABS in/out.

 

[RossKean]

I activated the ABS pump by using the jumper on the connector by the battery. Yes, that pumps the old fluid out and exchanges it for fresh fluid. But, does that bleed air out?

Don't know if it actively pumps fluid or if it is just opening and closing the valves...

 

[Diablo1]

In any event, the bike has a firm lever and brake pedal, so it appears that there’s no trapped air. There’s no ABS warning light or stored error codes. However, I can’t feel the ABS pulse while riding no matter how hard I try to brake. I’m going to rebuild the rear caliper next week and see if that strengthens the rear brake enough to change the front to rear brake force to activate the ABS.

 

[RossKean]

In any event, the bike has a firm lever and brake pedal, so it appears that there’s no trapped air. There’s no ABS warning light or stored error codes. However, I can’t feel the ABS pulse while riding no matter how hard I try to brake. I’m going to rebuild the rear caliper next week and see if that strengthens the rear brake enough to change the front to rear brake force to activate the ABS.

How fast were you going? There is a threshold speed below which ABS won't activate. Maybe 5 MPH? Don't remember...

Edit: Or maybe not - looked and couldn't find it...

 

[Diablo1]

How fast were you going? There is a threshold speed below which ABS won't activate. Maybe 5 MPH? Don't remember...

Maybe not over the speed threshold to activate ABS. I don’t understand why there is a minimum speed. Seems counterintuitive to let you lock up the brakes at any speed. The service manual doesn’t mention a minimum speed requirement - or my old eyes didn’t see it.

 

[RossKean]

The service manual doesn’t mention a minimum speed requirement - or my old eyes didn’t see it.

I could have sworn I saw that somewhere but I just looked and can't find it either. My eyes may be older than yours!

Edit - did a forum search... (I knew I read it somewhere)
https://www.fjrforum.com/threads/split-2005-abs-lock-up-press-or-stomp.166042/post-1274917
and
https://www.fjrforum.com/threads/abs-and-lockup-for-the-new-guy.137782/post-858167

Didn't see it in the FSM but didn't spend a lot of time looking. Ionbeam may have been looking at Gen I...?

Try it at 10 MPH or so on a predictable surface - wet or sandy asphalt or concrete.

 

[Diablo1]

Thanks RossKean for digging up those threads. I’ll do some more testing next week with pedal stomping.

 

[Mihalis fjr]

The problem is inside the Abs unit.."Stucked valves inside"Caused if you don't change the fluid every two years AND if you don't activate the system by yourself on a slippery road often.Will never see the Abs light on and will never see an error code..Repairable with lifetime warranty here: Don't buy a used one on ebay.Probably now or later will have the same problem..
https://diag-engine.com/abs-pump-motorcycle/yamaha/2467-fjr-1300.html

 

[RossKean]

The problem is inside the Abs unit.

May not be a problem at all. He needs to test it on the road and see if it actuates. He did manage to actuate it using the jumper method but MAY not have been going fast enough when he tried while riding.
@Diablo1 , did the ABS work properly prior to your caliper rebuild?

 

[Diablo1]

May not be a problem at all. He needs to test it on the road and see if it actuates. He did manage to actuate it using the jumper method but MAY not have been going fast enough when he tried while riding.
@Diablo1 , did the ABS work properly prior to your caliper rebuild?

I never activated the ABS on the road in the 47,000 miles I’ve ridden it, bought the bike with 38,000 miles on it in 2019. I flushed the brake fluid with the ABS jumper once before. It wouldn’t be terrible if the ABS doesn’t work as long as the brakes are reliable. I might get my daredevil buddy to ride it - he has no fear of locking the wheels.

 

[RossKean]

Very little drama involved. Probably a good idea to do it at least a few times so you know what to expect when it is activated in an emergency. (But maybe get your fearless buddy to do it for you the first time.)

 

[Diablo1]

Yesterday I rebuilt the rear caliper, and this one was easier than the fronts. I removed the caliper and kept the brake line attached and elevated the caliper higher than the ABS pump. That way, air bubbles don’t go down the line. Pumped the brake pedal to push out the piston and tied down the lever. Wiped the caliper bore clean and installed new seals and greased them with silicone grease, lubed the piston with brake fluid. Cracked open the bleeder valve and pushed in the piston to the bottom of the bore. That way the air goes out the bleeder valve. Closed the bleeder valve and untied the brake lever. Finished the brake bleeding with the piston blocked with an aluminum bar, with the caliper still up high and the bleeder valve up top. Getting a solid pedal was easy.