Canadian FJR
Canadian FJR
I searched but could not find any info on cam chain replacement. Any info would be appreciated.
Canadian FJR
Canadian FJR
Cam Chain Replacement
- Thread starter Canadian FJR
- Start date
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Queensland Ken
Well-known member
There is heaps of great info on this site, I made up my own word documents and bookmark folder containing the good information.
Did you try plugging your search term into Google? cam chain replacement site://fjrforum.com
Did you try plugging your search term into Google? cam chain replacement site://fjrforum.com
PhilJet09
Nondescript FJR Hierarchy Displayed
You have to replace the chain? Yikes!
No information whatsoever? I find that odd. What exactly did you search on? I found 495 hits by searching on cam chain replacment site:fjrforum.com at Google. That includes at least one thread that's about actual "replacement" too.
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Canadian FJR
Canadian FJR
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So, are you content that you found one where you "could not find any" or are you wanting more than that one? If the latter, then I ask again....what exactly did you search on? And, an added question would be if you tried it via Google?
If the former? Yahtzee!
Canadian FJR
Canadian FJR
Happy with what I found. When I searched via the search box up top I only got hits on the CCT. I then googled Cam Chain Repalcement FJR1300. Still lots of CCT but also found the one above.
Canadian FJR
Canadian FJR
TomInPA
Well-known member
A couple favorites for me are the FJR Bluesman CCT Replacement: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=116778
The Yamafitter thread: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=136891
and even the Wfooshee thread https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=139182
It's easier once your start...at least for the CCT. What's up that you are replacing the chain? How many miles?.
Have fun, but remember Howie had his engine out of the frame. It's a different animal to line up the timing with the engine where it belongs..
The Yamafitter thread: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=136891
and even the Wfooshee thread https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=139182
It's easier once your start...at least for the CCT. What's up that you are replacing the chain? How many miles?.
Have fun, but remember Howie had his engine out of the frame. It's a different animal to line up the timing with the engine where it belongs..
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huron52
Well-known member
Ok I looked at what Radio Howie wrote up and I don't see why you need to pull the motor out of the frame. Maybe I am missing something OR maybe he was swapping out the motor and the motor was already out of the frame. If they built the FJR anything like the XS11 block you it should be fairly easy.... but hey that's just me.
and....Yes I am assuming a couple of things.
and....Yes I am assuming a couple of things.
HotRodZilla
GOD BLESS AMERICA
Howie had his motor out during a swap after he grenaded his original engine with a bad CCT. That entire area is a pretty tight fit due to the frame and location of the chain. Engine out would be easier for access, but ONLY if the engine was already out.
Edit: Fixed my messed up post. Thanks GH for the heads up. BUT, what the Hell is it with the software screwing up all the code? Stupid!!
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Canadian FJR
Canadian FJR
"What's up that you are replacing the chain? How many miles?."
198,000 km. Valve check last winter show slight stretch (wear) causing difficulty to line the cams up perfectly. It was part of the planned winter maintenance for this winter.
Canadian FJR
198,000 km. Valve check last winter show slight stretch (wear) causing difficulty to line the cams up perfectly. It was part of the planned winter maintenance for this winter.
Canadian FJR
ionbeam
2 FUN
FWIW, the FSM indicates that the cam gears are a wear-out item and gives a wild specification of 1/4 tooth width as being the wear limit. If the cam gear(s) are worn the FSM says to change the gears and cam chain as a set. It might be worth a look.
RaYzerman19
Go Wings!
Scott, you will know better having actually seen your condition, but I'm questioning the need to replace the chain & sprockets. If you rotate the crank clockwise to keep the tension on the front half of the chain, and tensioned between the cam sprockets, rotate to #1 compressions stroke. Line up the crank timing mark, then gunsight the 4 marks on the cam sprockets (2 each), that they line up with the top of the cylinder head casting where the valve cover gasket seats. Takes a good flashlight and maybe a dental mirror..... but if they all line up well, I'd say you have minimal cam chain stretch.
The slack in the chain will be on the rear half, which the CCT is supposed to take up....
All that said, go here first........ The two wear items that are most likely to wear more than the chain or the sprockets are the two 'plastic' tensioner guides (official name Damper Chain 1 and Damper Chain 2). Check the condition of those too for confirmation, and if they are worn badly, that is the most likely source of perceived cam chain stretch. The rear one (#2) is the one the CCT pushes on to keep tension on the chain. I don't know how much wear on those would cause a problem, or compromise the CCT's ability to keep adequate tension on the chain, but I'd look there first (IMHO they'd have to be pretty bad to cause a problem). I am making assumptions that you've replaced the CCT prior and that it is OK.... if not, I'd replace it.
The slack in the chain will be on the rear half, which the CCT is supposed to take up....
All that said, go here first........ The two wear items that are most likely to wear more than the chain or the sprockets are the two 'plastic' tensioner guides (official name Damper Chain 1 and Damper Chain 2). Check the condition of those too for confirmation, and if they are worn badly, that is the most likely source of perceived cam chain stretch. The rear one (#2) is the one the CCT pushes on to keep tension on the chain. I don't know how much wear on those would cause a problem, or compromise the CCT's ability to keep adequate tension on the chain, but I'd look there first (IMHO they'd have to be pretty bad to cause a problem). I am making assumptions that you've replaced the CCT prior and that it is OK.... if not, I'd replace it.
ionbeam
2 FUN
I have seen the slippers from 3 engines and I have to say that they all showed 0.0001% wear, albeit just 50k miles and again at 80k miles. The slippers looked new and even the shine was unmarred. There is the third slipper in the valve cover between the two cams which does not contribute to chain tension but does retain the chain on the gears.
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Canadian FJR
Canadian FJR
Thanks for the comments folks. It is still riding season up here so updates to follow in the upcoming months.
Canadian FJR
Canadian FJR
^ This is good advice.
There is almost zero chance that your cam chain has stretched. As you may know, drive chains don't really stretch. The perceived phenomenon of "chain stretch" is actually an accumulation of wear in all of the links that make up the chain causing it to lengthen slightly.
This happens on drive chains because they are subjected to the full engine's power driving the entire load of the bike in an inhospitable environment, being subjected to water and dirt with very little in the way of lubrication except what was sealed in between the o-rings at the factory and whatever you spritz on occasionally.
A cam chain and sprockets have a relatively easy life in comparison. They are constantly bathed in clean engine oil and the only load on them is turning the mass of the cams above.
I would hazard a guess that your perception of the cams not being timed perfectly is just that; perception. But if it were true, a "stretched" chain and/or sprockets would be seen as a slightly retarded (slightly CCW from perfect) cam timing position in comparison to the crankshaft position. Or, when the crankshaft was advanced to where the cams are in perfect alignment the crankshaft would appear to be too far advanced (CW) from the TDC timing mark. Is that what you observed? By how much were they off?
As an aside, it is easy to have both cams off by one tooth with the result being the appearance that the crankshaft is only /2 a tooth off.
sath182
Well-known member
I went through a big bit of worry about the timing as well. If your timing is spot on when you assemble everything, then the cams appear very slightly retarded after a full engine cycle, don't worry. Its still in time at that point. If in doubt, look closely at Howie's last picture. The forward (right side) marks are slightly above the head even on his engine. When I noticed that I gave up worrying, slapped it all together and got a max 49.4mpg on an 18 day road trip through Spanish mountains.
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rPGoatBoy
Well-known member
When I had my motor out, I went ahead and replaced the timing chain while doing the CCT at 27,000 miles. I did it because it was $19 and I was in there anyway. I compared the new one to the old one with a big inspection caliper (pin to pin inside), and measured 0.012" difference between new and old. Reasonably certain that's within manufacturing tolerance between two new ones.
Would I replace it again on a bike with 27,000 miles? Nah.
A bike with 198,000km? Maybe. I'd take a look at the teeth on the cams and see how worn they are, plus the teeth on the crank, which is what I'd be more worried about. A new chain on a worn crank sprocket might not be a good idea, and that sprocket isn't replaceable.
Take some pictures if you would, and post them.
Would I replace it again on a bike with 27,000 miles? Nah.
A bike with 198,000km? Maybe. I'd take a look at the teeth on the cams and see how worn they are, plus the teeth on the crank, which is what I'd be more worried about. A new chain on a worn crank sprocket might not be a good idea, and that sprocket isn't replaceable.
Take some pictures if you would, and post them.
