Checking the TPS Sensor...
Newfie Bullet, I couldn't have said it better myself.
To which I will add this excerpt from another post about my TPS:
Last fall I had one hot running incident that caused me to shorten up a ride with HERJR because of bucking and lack of throttle response, after that episode it ran just fine. Early this spring I had another episode of buck/fart/misfire. About 6 weeks ago Feejer started to regularly be unpleasant when hot, exhibiting misfiring at some cruising speeds. Starting a few weeks ago it would sometimes become intolerant of slight throttle openings at idle. The symptoms occurred when very hot, >3 bars and radiator fan cycling on/off.
After a bad ride I checked the diAG screen but there were no codes set. I checked the values of all the sensors including the TPS and found nothing wrong. I was concerned about the delay between the misfiring and when I checked the TPS. Next time I experienced misfiring I pulled over and immediately shut down and invoked the diAG screen. Every thing was within spec. After restarting bikie it ran well. Next time it happened I shut off the key while going ~35 mph and entered diAG and ran tests while coasting down and found nothing out of spec.
Wellhell, time to get serious. This past weekend I pulled off the filler ring assembly (procedure here) and found an amazing pile of road spooge that I cleaned out. I dissembled the ring and verified all vent passages were clear. I checked all hoses under the gas tank for pinching and obstruction. No problems found. A test ride quickly showed no cure. No surprise.
It becomes a bit more tricky to troubleshoot when everything passes the diAG test because those are the operating values that the ECU makes its calculations from. I did a bit of studying with the FSM and came up with a list of things to check.
Among the sensors, the TPS, atmospheric pressure sensor (here after APS) and intake manifold pressure sensor (IPS) were high on the suspect list. The pressure sensors include a integrated circuit (IC) that performs temperature compensation and linearization of signals. ICs don't tolerate heat well so they became suspects. Both atmosphere and intake sensors are the exact same part(!). I pulled them and verified that the sensor opening was not obstructed. DO NOT POKE ANYTHING IN THE SENSOR HOLE! DO NOT SQUIRT AN AEROSOL SPRAY IN THE HOLE! The active part of the sensor is very delicate. The APS operates over a very small range so it is unlikely to be a problem, the IPS has a wide dynamic range and it also bakes under the tank making it a likely suspect. Since the sensors are the same I swapped them to see if the problem was either cured or changed. A test ride quickly showed no change, no cure.
Next --- > I used my fuel pressure gauge and mity-vac to test the fuel pressure regulator. No problem. At least at room temperature. I put a Tee on the intake manifold vacuum line that controls the fuel pressure regulator, ran a vacuum line up to the dash and put on a vacuum gauge. Ride time. Upon misfire it was clear that the change in manifold vacuum was a consequence of the misfire and not a leading cause. This pretty much lets out the fuel injectors, fuel pump and pressure regulator. This is the first time that I started to really consider that the problem might be electrical ignition.
Next --- >
Even though the TPS has worked in all previous testing I couldn't rule it out. At this point I had a faint recollection that the problem suddenly became worse after taking all the play out of the throttle cable. Hmmm... I pulled the connector, checked voltages, ohmed the unit at ambient temps and cleaned the filthy sensor. All normal. I back-probed the connector, ran wires up to the dash and Velcroed my cheapie DMM to the dash and went for a ride with Good Pillion™ installed. Three bars, fan cycled on, 35 mph BUCK, FART, MISFIRE. Whoa baby, did you see what the DMM showed?!?! Next glitch, DMM showed a major TPS drop-out. By this point I noted that the drop-outs always occur between .775 and .778 volts. I could ride anyplace around that particular range and had no problems. Deliberate operation in that range caused TPS drop out and the beginnings of Pillion hammering on my helmet to stop doing that. Back in the driveway I checked my light throttle problem at idle and it was plain to see the TPS drop out. As soon as everything cooled a bit the TPS worked normally again.