Canyon Dancers

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radman

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Plan on using to get Frank to WFO. Anyone used them, and if so, what did you think of their performance? Any caveats or cautions?

 
I use the Canyon Dancer alot, works well, but puts quite a load on the Throttle, and switch assemblies. I am going to make something to slip over the end of the bars that will take some of the load off.

Todd

 
Plan on using to get Frank to WFO. Anyone used them, and if so, what did you think of their performance? Any caveats or cautions?

When I picked mine up from D&H they recommended a Canyon Dancer to haul her back so I bought it. I tied her down in my enclose trailer and hauled her back 7 hours. Some say it can bend you bars or tear your grips. I had no problems...

 
I use them any time I have to have a bike in the back of my truck. On one occasion they did move one on my grips a little bit. Nothing major, but if you dont use glue on your grips it can move them.

 
Rad, IMHO.. Use the Canyon Dancers in conjunction with regular tie downs and soft ties. I regularly use two soft ties, one each around the tube/stanchion front fork area. Just above the seal. Each soft tie has two new Ancra tie downs attached. The other end of the Ancras connect to different anchor points. One anchor point is angled more in-line with the bike and its purpose is to keep the bike in maximum contact with the wheel chock. The second anchor point is splayed out at approx a 45 degree angle to keep the bike stable.

On top of all this, I use the Canyon Dancers as my last line of defense. With this technique, I've trailererd many a motorcyle and haven't lost one yet, even after hitting a huge pot hole at speed - enough to get my 16' trailer (slightly) airborne.

Another note: using the Canyon Dancers will compress the fork springs. The other arrangement does not. It's been my experience that when springs are compressed, it is possible to hit a bump, compress the springs even further, have the tie down hook come free resulting in bike damage. Some tie downs have 'captive' hooks to prevent this.

Oh, and I use two more tie downs on the rear wheel to keep the back end from 'hopping' around.

Oh #2 - there is adequate clearance between the soft tie and lower fairing cowl, at least on my 06.

I guess I won't ask why you're *trailering* Frank to WFO? ;) ...look forward to seeing you there..

 
I've used them a lot on various track bikes with no ill effects, but never on the FJR. I would caution you not to overtighten -- leave some room for suspension travel. Ideally, I think it would be better to use soft ties off of the forks to hold most of the weight forward and side to side. The Canyon Dancer harness, due to its higher and wider mounting point makes an excellent stabilizer, but I prefer to use it in a secondary role -- you don't stress the bars as much. In addition, I like to use a couple of tie downs in the rear to pull against the forward straps and for support side to side. I've recently purchased a Baxley-type locking wheel chock that adds a little more stability.

Good luck and have a nice trip.

 
I've used them a lot on various track bikes with no ill effects, but never on the FJR. I would caution you not to overtighten -- leave some room for suspension travel. Ideally, I think it would be better to use soft ties off of the forks to hold most of the weight forward and side to side. The Canyon Dancer harness, due to its higher and wider mounting point makes an excellent stabilizer, but I prefer to use it in a secondary role -- you don't stress the bars as much. In addition, I like to use a couple of tie downs in the rear to pull against the forward straps and for support side to side. I've recently purchased a Baxley-type locking wheel chock that adds a little more stability.
Good luck and have a nice trip.
Thanks Leg (and others) for the feedback. Leg, thats what my plan was. Got 'em coming from Ridegear at 30 beans.

 
Eh, I was going to offer to send you my MC tiedowns, but it looks like you got it covered... Cripes, for 30 bucks you can't go wrong.

 
User a Baxley sport chock and a couple of tie downs. You don't even have to mount the chock if you tie the bike down correctly, as Baxley shows on their web site. We trailered four bikes from Minnesota to Daytona and back in March over really crappy roads on an open trailer. Went over some huge bumps in some construction zones and never once saw the bikes move. The tie downs go on the rear of the bike and pull towards the front. The front wheel is strapped into the chock. Your front suspension is free to move up and down and the rear is only slightly compressed.

I'll never trailer a bike any other way again

 
While the Baxley looks like a nice unit, at $215, it's not gonna be part of the plan. The trailer is for scoots, has a front notch for locating the wheel etc. I think we'll be ok.

 
radman, Canyon Dancer works just fine. Soft hooks around the top of the lower forks with tiedowns pulling fwd.

Canyon Dancer with another set of tiedowns pulling more sideways for stability. Another set to hold the rear down and you're good. I've done this quite a few times on a three rail trailer, and never a problem. Matter of fact, I had MORE problems before I bought the Canyon Dancer.

With the soft hooks pulling fwd you don't have to crank down the Canyon Dancer.

Here's a little trick. Wrap electrical tape around the end of the tiedown hook. Impossible to come lose once you do that. ;)

 
Thanks d00ds. I am really looking forward to this trip, and meeting all of ya's. Yes, all of ya's. :D

 
I have used Canyon Dancer's exclusively ever since they came out. I've never had 1 instance when I was concerned! Some of you guys using 6 or 8 tie downs? Can you say paranoid? If done correctly, 4 max and it's rock steady! I've towed race bikes and street bikes 10's of thousands of miles and have never had a problem. As with anything though, always inspect them before use and replace if worn or damaged. Even UV/Sun rot! This goes for tie downs also! Inspect the trailer for rust and cracks. Never assume anything. Nothing lasts for ever! If in doubt, replace it!

 
I use the Canyon Dancer alot, works well, but puts quite a load on the Throttle, and switch assemblies. I am going to make something to slip over the end of the bars that will take some of the load off.
Todd
Radman,

Todd's right, but I always use in combination with a wheel chock and never tighten the suspension all the way. I also wrap a black rubber bungy cord around the rear wheel to keep it from kicking out if I hit a large bump or pothole. Works like a charm and never had any problems what so ever using on GSXRs and R1.

 
Radman,

One additional thing to all the suggestions. I use bungee cords on the tie down straps. I will hook one end of the bungee cord near the middle of the tie down strap, and anchor the other end to the trailer (or to the center of another strap). This keeps tension on the strap and prevents the hook ends from popping off of the bike when navigating rough road surfaces. I have never had a strap come off using this method.

Bananas!

 
Rad, IMHO.. Use the Canyon Dancers in conjunction with regular tie downs and soft ties. I regularly use two soft ties, one each around the tube/stanchion front fork area. Just above the seal. Each soft tie has two new Ancra tie downs attached. The other end of the Ancras connect to different anchor points. One anchor point is angled more in-line with the bike and its purpose is to keep the bike in maximum contact with the wheel chock. The second anchor point is splayed out at approx a 45 degree angle to keep the bike stable.

 


On top of all this, I use the Canyon Dancers as my last line of defense. With this technique, I've trailererd many a motorcyle and haven't lost one yet, even after hitting a huge pot hole at speed - enough to get my 16' trailer (slightly) airborne.


 


Another note: using the Canyon Dancers will compress the fork springs. The other arrangement does not. It's been my experience that when springs are compressed, it is possible to hit a bump, compress the springs even further, have the tie down hook come free resulting in bike damage. Some tie downs have 'captive' hooks to prevent this.


 


Oh, and I use two more tie downs on the rear wheel to keep the back end from 'hopping' around.



Oh #2 - there is adequate clearance between the soft tie and lower fairing cowl, at least on my 06.






+1 Yeah, what he said! Good arrangement I've used for years with no problems or "bent bars". IMHO you can't put too many tie downs on a $10K+ bike!
 
I have used the canyon dancer 3 times on my FJR. It tends to distort the grips a little, but I have been able to get them back inline without too much effort. You do have to pay attention to the control on the bars when you fit it on the bike. I think the best setup would be two tiedowns mounted almost directly next to the front wheel and up to the bike between the fork tubes and the fairing. They could do most of the heavy work of pulling the suspension down. You could then use the canyon dancer as a backup for "just incase". In conjunction with the tiedowns one would not have to put some much load on the bars alone.

The problem is having a tie point for the tiedowns by the front wheel. Most setups dont have them.

John

PS Radman, I pm'd you regarding the other item.

 
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