Carbtune around Seattle

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samamoto

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Messages
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Location
Bothell, WA
I had my bike in for valves check. All came out to the spec. After the service my bike is dying when fully warmed up and idle - looks like the RPM's are too low. Idle adjuster screw is all the way "in" (clockwise) and I cannot adjust the RPM's anymore. I had that issue once before when the same shop did TBS in the past, I adjusted the screw and it was just fine. Now they claimed the idle issue was coming from the dying stator and R/R. At the diagnostics they found out they were giving 7 ohm and need to be replaced. For whatever reason I didn't connect the dots or ask myself for better advice and replaced both. Surprise, surprise to no effect...
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Anyways, I do not want to go back to them, argue, fight, pull the last hair out of my head. I'll keep the name of the shop for myself until I confirm that TBS is actually screwed up. I just want to do the TBS on my own, try to fix it like I should have done from the beginning and enjoy the summer. I have a Carbtune on order but it comes long way.

Does anybody around Seattle have a Carbtune laying around and wouldn't mind to borrow it for a weekend (I can swing by to pick it up any day but Saturday)? Potential help in exchange for a fine ale would be also great as I believe I did TBS only once at the Tech meet but that's fully optional - youtube and FJR1300.info should have all the info.

 
I've got one and would be happy to help sort out the idle and get it squared away. Not available this weekend (Fathers Day) but would be available weekend of June 22-23 if not too late.

Several other Carbtunes floating around the metro area, I'm sure someone else will ping in...

~G

 
I have a different brand (not Carbtune), but it has done a stellar job on my previous ST1300. I surely plan to use it for my FJR in the future, but not quite at the TBS yet...you are welcome to borrow if still needed. In Seattle First Hill neighborhood

 
I should be just fine with either @escapefjrtist or @Niehart - both of them are close enough I could ride bicycle to their place if needed without breaking too much sweat. I wanted Carbtune since I remember using it before and for the fact if has proven vacuum scale from what I know. Additional practice for myself with using the tool that's on the way to my own garage will also be in in order.

 
The trick with the TBS is to make sure you start in the right place. You can get a balance but if they are all too far in (or out), you won't be able to set the idle within the range of the adjustment screw (Gen II). I usually start with all at three quarters to one full turn out from lightly seated. I then use #1 as the reference and try to balance everything to that one. I just use a home-built 4 channel manometer filled with ATF.

 
That's one way to do it. That's why I want to do it myself/with help - do it from scratch, using all the knowledge I can find and taking my time. I fear the shop did the TBS watching the rate/clock, assuming the engine warmed up completely after "X" minutes and with the instructions from the book adjusting it to one of the cylinders locally, without taking into account the particularity of my "high mileage" bike and looking at overall picture.

 
I had my bike in for valves check. All came out to the spec. After the service my bike is dying when fully warmed up and idle - looks like the RPM's are too low. Idle adjuster screw is all the way "in" (clockwise) and I cannot adjust the RPM's anymore.
Classic Gen2 "skipped tooth on crank sprocket" symptom. Maybe you should pull the valve and timing covers to check.

 
I had my bike in for valves check. All came out to the spec. After the service my bike is dying when fully warmed up and idle - looks like the RPM's are too low. Idle adjuster screw is all the way "in" (clockwise) and I cannot adjust the RPM's anymore.
Classic Gen2 "skipped tooth on crank sprocket" symptom. Maybe you should pull the valve and timing covers to check.
Good point! You said they did a valve check. If they didn't have to adjust any, there would be no good reason to pull the cams and there SHOULD be no possibility of a skipped tooth. On the other hand, if they made any adjustments or pulled the cams for any reason, there is a significant chance they screwed the timing as per rbentnail's post, above. Won't hurt anything to play with the TBS at this point but if there is a skipped tooth, you won't be able to get back to normal operation until that's fixed. Hope it is just a botched TBS.

 
Valves were just checked and confirmed to be within specs. I was charged for total of 2.5h for that task, it would be far more if they had to do anything with the cams. I'm crossing my fingers it's just TBS.

 
Confirmed, now I just need to find some time to get it done, see if is the TBS and regain the trust between me and FJR. It may still come down to George and his help, one never knows.

 
This shit couldn't be so simple...

When warming up the bike for the TBS I found an oil leak from the place where coolant tube enter/exit valve cover between cylinders 3 and 4. Fortunately or not it's oil and not coolant. It's large enough that after about 2 minutes of bike warming up the port overfills and the oil drips from the engine onto exhaust... TBS postponed, bike goes back to the shop on Tuesday, my guess some o-ring or the valve cover gasket was pinched/screwed up. I see no reason to do it myself if it was clearly screwed up.

Seeing how much it leaks makes me question how did they get the bike to warm up for the TBS after valves check and didn't notice that...

 
This shit couldn't be so simple...
When warming up the bike for the TBS I found an oil leak from the place where coolant tube enter/exit valve cover between cylinders 3 and 4. Fortunately or not it's oil and not coolant. It's large enough that after about 2 minutes of bike warming up the port overfills and the oil drips from the engine onto exhaust... TBS postponed, bike goes back to the shop on Tuesday, my guess some o-ring or the valve cover gasket was pinched/screwed up. I see no reason to do it myself if it was clearly screwed up.

Seeing how much it leaks makes me question how did they get the bike to warm up for the TBS after valves check and didn't notice that...
At least they actually removed the cover. I did one for a local with an '05 that the dealer said they did the valve check. But when we went in to replace the cam chain tensioner, we found they had not ever done the valve check. All of the bolts on the side cover and the inspection cover only had marks in them from installing them originally at the factory. No marks from loosening. Same with the bolts on the valve cover.

 
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