CCS-100 Wiring questions

[Rogue]

I'm wiring my CCS-100 and have a couple questions:

1)From the control pad there are a red wire (becomes orange after the fuse) and a grey wire.

The instructions from FJR.Info shows the orange to a swithched hot and the grey to the blue to the turn signal... isn't this also a swithched hot? What is the difference between the two besides the load?

2)At the brake switch it shows wiring to the Brown & Yellow... The AudioVox instructions show the Red to a constant hot... the Brown is a switched hot, I have a constant hot fuse block next to the cc.

 

[slapnpop]

#1. I wired my both to my kill-switch together.

Don't know about #2, but I did the switch hookup like the fjr1300.info article and she workie just fine.

 

[Constant Mesh]

The control switch grey wire and its complementary black grounding wire power the control switch LED lights. This grey wire in auto applications allows the LED lights to be switched on and off with the instrument cluster lighting. Since you can't control the FJR's instrument lighting (always on when the key is switched on) you can correctly connect the grey wire and orange fused wire to the same source.

The red brake circuit wire should be connected to the FJR's brown brake circuit supply wire. Doing this ensures that the FJR's brake circuit is powered (fuse not blown). If you connect the red wire to some source other than the brake circuit the cruise control could operate even when the brake circuit fuse is blown. This is bad because you couldn't deactivate the cruise control by actuating the brakes. So, connecting the red wire to the brake circuit is a safeguard. If your brake circuit is inoperative (fuse blown, etc.) the cruise control won't actuate.

 

[Shane]

I'm wiring my CCS-100 and have a couple questions:1)From the control pad there are a red wire (becomes orange after the fuse) and a grey wire.

The instructions from FJR.Info shows the orange to a swithched hot and the grey to the blue to the turn signal... isn't this also a swithched hot? What is the difference between the two besides the load?

2)At the brake switch it shows wiring to the Brown & Yellow... The AudioVox instructions show the Red to a constant hot... the Brown is a switched hot, I have a constant hot fuse block next to the cc.

Rogue,

Question1. I think Slapnpop is right, but I'd have to go uncover the bike to check. IIRC, I merged those two wires as well. I believe that the short grey wire is simply to back-light the control pad, an option that some might not want, and so, is not automatically connected.

Question2. I had to check my notes, and this is what they told me as I drink my coffee....

"Connect the Red wire to the Brown wire at the brown plug and connect the Purple wire to the Yellow wire at the brown plug."

Good luck,

Shane

 

[Rogue]

Thanks all, That handles my confusion.

 

[dbx]

If I can resurrect this thread, I have a couple of wiring questions myself.

1. I'm using Brundog's approach of replacing the keypad with switches, so the only 3 wires I'm routing up to the handgrip area are Brown, Green, and Yellow. My question is, do I need to tie the Brown wire to a (switched) +12V source, or does it get powered by the control board in the servo? In other words, does the Brown wire feed +12V -INTO- the CC or is it only a feed -OUT- of the CC to be used to ultimately power the Set/Resume circuits (Yellow and Green wires).

2. Instead of running the Blue Tach wire up to the negative side of the coil, I plan to connect directly to the ECU harness. Is the Orange wire at the ECU the best wire to connect to the Blue Tach wire from the CC?

Thanks to everyone who has blazed the trail on this. You've all been a lot of help!

 

[skyway]

If I can resurrect this thread, I have a couple of wiring questions myself.
2. Instead of running the Blue Tach wire up to the negative side of the coil, I plan to connect directly to the ECU harness. Is the Orange wire at the ECU the best wire to connect to the Blue Tach wire from the CC?

I think the orange is the correct wire.